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tfes

310-8 Electrical and more?

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tfes

I've had my 310-8 since 1989 and it has run flawlessly until now...HELP! I'm at the end of my rope. 

 

Here it goes....Started my 310 a couple of weeks ago with no problems...all of a sudden it became intermittent if it would start or not. When I turn the key, the meter on the dash zero's out. I replaced the battery one month ago. I began reading this forum, downloaded and have gone through the wiring diagrams, put a meter on every safety switch and they all checked out just fine, and today, I disconnected the ground wire from the starter, and ran a direct feed line using a jumper cable from the positive battery terminal directly to the disconnected starter. I got lots of sparks and the starter did nothing. I called my dealer (yes they are still in business and thriving) and their advice was to replace the starter with a new Kohler made starter. "Ouch" but I figured it's worth it because I plan on keeping this tractor. I also took my new battery along and had them test it just to make sure it's not the battery.

 

After reading past posts on replacing the starter, I purchased the new stater and installed it on my 310-8. I carefully put all the parts back together and turned the key only to have the meter go to zero and nothing happen. I thought I'd try crossing the solenoid with a screwdriver and got nothing. I then removed the direct ground wire off the starter and jumped from the battery to the starter directly. NOTHING happened!!

 

Outside of the new starter being bad...can anyone give me some advice what they think may be happening?

 

Any and all advice is much appreciated!!

 

Thanks!

Tom

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WH nut

Motor locked up, see if you can turn it by hand. may have to take the screen off the flywheel and put a wrench on it. Lots of sparks means lots of draw or shorted starter

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tfes

I removed the shroud and am able to move the motor with no problem. Some how this goes back to it being intermittent when the whole thing started. Would a starter be intermittent?

 

thanks! 

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Geno

Could also be a ground problem. 

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km3h

You do not give us enough information to help you. Photos of the engine and tractor would help, especially of the placement of the starter and solenoid. I don't believe your starter has a ground by the way. They usually get ground from contact with the engine. I am not familiar with that tractor and not sure which Kohler engine you have.  

 

Loading photos is easy. I use my cell phone which is perfect for the job. You first have to download them into a folder on your computer. Then when making a reply to a post, use the black box with the "more reply options." From there you should be able to figure hoe it is done.

 

I have no idea of your level of expertise on these matters, so here is a brief description of what happens when you turn your ignition key. First, the solenoid if it is mounted on the frame, has at least three posts on it. Two of those are large and will carry the full amperage of the tractor directly to the starter by way of the solenoid when it is activated. there is a smaller post on the solenoid that gets voltage when you turn the key to the start position thus activating the plunger inside the solenoid and allowing voltage to the starter. Think of it as a gate valve. 

 

The battery supplies 12 volts to one side of a solenoid, which usually has three posts. Also from this post is a wire smaller wire of 12 or 14 gage that goes back to the switch and supplies voltage to the rest of the tractor. When you turn the key to the on position you should see the voltage meter reading a bit over 12 volts. If it drops as you describe while simply in the on position, you are experiencing a dead short someplace other than the starting circuit, which is not activated until you turn the switch to start. If it drops to zero only while in the start position, it would follow that the short is in the starting circuit or there is something supplying more physical resistance than the starter can overcome, such as a frozen engine, which in your case has been shown to not be the problem.

 

We can help you but we will need more information. Photos are the best way. model and engine numbers as well as the tractor model number and year is also a help. Don't go out and buy any more parts yet. The best way to trouble shoot a problem is to test each part in a circuit. By doing that you know what is not the problem if a part tests good.  

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WH nut

If you run jumper straight to the started from the battery pos to pos. neg to motor and the starter still doesn't spin and motor is not locked its a  bad starter

Edited by WH nut
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andy001

More than likely its a clutch safety switch or pto safety switch. Both are on the eight side of the tractor. Pto is under the side panel and from inside the gear selection cage. Pto switch (more likely of the two) Is next to the battery tray. These are cheap to replace normally open contact switches that seem to cause that intermittent start issue on quite a few of the horses ive seen. If the safety circuit thinks the pto Is engaged turning the key will produce what you got. .nothing. .no clicking. .nothing.

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Vincez

I believe I have a similar problem -- tractor wouldn't start unless I move the PTO clutch back & fourth a couple of times. Yesterday while mowing I turned the tractor off, to pick up debris, & got nothing when I tried to restart. I think it is the PTO switch, but I can't seem to find it? One respone I read says look to the right side of the tractor, I assume looking at the tractor from the rear? Do I need to remove the sheet metal on the side to get to it?

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andy001

Pto switches are inside the battery tray on the right side. Follow the pto engage arm to the inside of the tray. There will be a half moon steel plate attached to the pto arm...the switches mount to a small bracket on the tray and the actuation fingers ride of the half moon. . They are a common switch used for copiers etc. Should be easy to find.

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Vincez

Andy 101... Thank you for your reply. In order to replace the switch, do I need to remove the sheet metal that covers it, or is there an easier solution?

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andy001

If u mean body sheet metal. ..no. you will need to remove the bracket

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km3h

I think you have either a valve problem or a bent key in the flywheel. You state you can turn it by hand. Does it try to turn but stops suddenly? Turn the engine by hand till it gets past top dead center. that is just past the point you feel resistance. Then try using the kew. Does it turn and then reach a point where it stops suddenly?

 

If the above proves true, the exhaust valve seat may have come loose. When this happens, the entire exhaust valve sits further into the combustion chamber and the compression release can not do its job. If it is just the key in the flywheel, it causes the timing to be off and this can result in the compression release happening at the wrong time. I am hoping it is the flywheel key but I am betting on the exhaust valve seat.  

Edited by km3h

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