Commando 8 gets a cleaning

[19richie66 16,942]

I have one just like this thats going on the table for a restore for the wife. Thanks for the pics.

[Ed Kennell 35,768]

Well, though I would cut the hitch off and drill the pin  while waiting for the PB to soak.

 

 

 

Still could not budge the pin, so thought I would pull the hub and replace the seal on that side as it was leaking.   Bad news in the keyway.

 

 

Has anyone had any luck using steel Devcon to rebuild a keyway. Using a new key coated with mold release as a mold ?

 

I have another 3 sp on the shelf, but would like to save this one as the bearings really feel good..

[Trouty56 565]

That pin has to let go....damn.....I have read about using an epoxy type material on keyways......

[Ed Kennell 35,768]

Not to worry Bob...I will get that pin out.  If the PB doesn't free it up till Monday, I'll drill it out to 5/8" and fire up the torch.

[Save Old Iron 1,563]

 

Has anyone had any luck using steel Devcon to rebuild a keyway. Using a new key coated with mold release as a mold ?

 

 

 

I have witnessed a keyway repaired by someone fashioning a "key" out of a carbon rod, inserting it into the axle and welding around the carbon key. Worked great but (obviously) melted the axle seal .

[Ed Kennell 35,768]

I thought about rebuilding the keyway with the MIG using a copper key  for a mold.   Any opinions on using copper?   The seal needs replaced anyway, that's why I pulled the hub off.

 

I have read some successful reports on using Devcon , Metalite, and JB weld.

[Molon_Labe 731]

Ed a copper mold would be a great idea. I've used copper sleeves when butt welding cocking tubes on a couple of H&K's and it worked perfectly.

[Ed Kennell 35,768]

Well , that gives me several options. Have to find some carbon or copper bar to make the woodruff mold.

[Ed Kennell 35,768]

Well, I finally found a few hours to work on the Commando 8.  I don't know how I got everything done before I retired.  Seems like I have less and less time.

 

Anyway to move ahead, I for now,  shelved the tranny with the frozen hitch pin and the wallowed out axle keyways. It was also like Craigs... full of chocolate milk . I'll rebuild it another day.

 

I had a good 3 speed on the shelf so I cleaned it up and prepped for paint.  Got some other parts ready to paint, then started working on the belt guard. 

 

Had to rediuld the bolt tab on the front and remove some kinks along the bottom.  Then I noticed these two tabs the look like they are broken.

 

  Does anyone have  pic to show me what they should look like or should the be connected?   Are they for belt support when the clutch is disengaged?

 

 

Oh, BTW I have given up on trying to preserve this one without painting. I just can not bring myself to putting  it back together without removing all the rust and repainting.

 

[slammer302 2,154]

Those tabs should be welded to the frame

[Ed Kennell 35,768]

OK, thanks Slammer.  I'll look for the remains on the frame tomorrow.  If their  purpose is to support the belt guard, I can see why they broke. I think they  are only  1/8 x 1/4" bar.

 

I may just weld  sleeves  inside the belt guard and tap holes in the frame and bolt the guard to the frame.

[slammer302 2,154]

Yeah I had to reweld the ones on my commando 8

[Ed Kennell 35,768]

That's probably why the front tab that bolts to the block was broken off also.   These two little tabs in the back broke, then the front one was supporting the whole guard.

 

Definitely  needs some reengineering in that area.  Just need to make sure these tabs are not part of the belt braking system when declutching.

[Ed Kennell 35,768]

Yep, I see where the tabs were welded to  the frame.  Think I will just grind them off and drill and tap holes  in the frame to match the two in the belt guard, then cut two spacers.

[squonk 38,920]

If you rebuild that trans someday. either get another axle from Biser or have a machine shop cut another keyway and smooth out the old one so it can't hurt anybody.

[Ed Kennell 35,768]

That might be a project this winter Mike.  I  would still like to try to try welding up the old keyways abound a mold.  I have a piece   of 3/16 brass to make a mold key.

[AMC RULES 36,945]

I'm hoping you'll photo document that process for us Ed.

[Ed Kennell 35,768]

Got a little time on the 8 today. They sure do make a pile of parts. I found a lot of wear resulting in excessive clearance in the steering shaft bushings. The front end did not have a bolted on bearing although the holes are there. I'll need to find or make a bearing for the front. The rear end has a brass bushing in the block so I can replace that one. Hoping to get the frame and front end painted before it gets too cold so I can get her back to rolling.

[19richie66 16,942]

They do make a pile. I have parts laying all over the place myself.Watching closely.As far as the front steering bearing,I was looking at this one.Not sure if the outer holes are the right spacing.

 

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Firewall-Mount-Flanged-Bearing-for-Steering-Shaft,2044.html

[Ed Kennell 35,768]

The bolt spacing is OK...2.25".

The 1.9" width would interfere with the bottom of the motor pan though as I have only 0.75" from top of frame to hole CL

I will need to grind 0.2" off the top side of the bearing housing which I think I could do without weakening the housing too much. The motor pan does have 1/16" raised feet on the bottom so that will help.

[Geno 1,928]

I think you may be doing a little more than cleaning.      Sure is gonna get fixed right! 

[Ed Kennell 35,768]

It won't be the prettiest Queen around Geno, but I want it to run as good as new, or maybe better.

I was afraid I would have to grind away too much of the housing on the spherical bearing Richie. So I bought a 3/4 X 7/8 flanged bronze bushing at ACE for 4 bucks and made a housing for it. I have about 3X the bearing surface now and it is bz on steel not st on st like the factory. Oh, BTW if you do buy one online, two day shipping was $7 and one day was $63. Don't hit the wrong button.

[KyBlue 652]

Looks like it'll work just fine 

 

 

Coming along nicely

[Ed Kennell 35,768]

Finally got her rolling again. New/spare tranny in place. Picked up a pair of mounted Deerstone AGs for $75.

Yeah, the wheels need repainted.

Shimmed and bushed the steering gear and made new pivot pin for the axle.

This really tightened up the steering. Also straightened the arm on the left spindle. It was bent up about a 1/2" and had actually worn a groove in the axle.

Pulled the covers off the engine to get ready for paint. Found the points looked new and right on 0.020".

Took the fuel pump off for cleaning and was surprised when I didn't find an operating arm. This is my first experience with a K181, so I'm on the steep side of the learning curve. Now understand the pulse fuel pump.

Took the breather cover off to clean and check valve clearances. Another surprise...no clearance adjustment. Back to the manual for more learning.

The exhaust is OK @0.016 and intake OK @ 0.008"

Edited October 28, 2014 by ekennell

[Ed Kennell 35,768]

Got tired of waiting for the PB to loosen that frozen hitch pin...It's been soaking since Sept 17.

I opened the hole to 11/16, got a 5/8 bar, and beat it with the BFH. It surrendered. There was evidence the PB had soaked the pin on the side where I drilled the two 1/8" holes, but the other side was still dry.

In case you were wondering. I did have it supported under the lug when I beat on the pin.

So there ya go TROUTY..it worked.