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Snow plow info

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Terry that is indeed a short frame tractor.

And thats a short frame plow also.

Looks to be an early "early 60's" short frame snow plow.

Terry from PA added a pic similiar to that style further up in the thread...look for the one with the "X" shaped cross braceing.

As to why things didn't fit & it had to modified?...thats a new question now :D

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It's easy guys!!!! ALL long frames have the same wheel base,

45.5". ALL short frames have the same wheel base, 43.5".

D-Series and 520's a touch longer.

Mid engines are "roasters"

Dale

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Stephen,

Maybe this plow was modified once to fit something else and then modified again to fit what is was supposed to fit in the first place. The rear end on this Commando came from another tractor and I can't remember if the hi/lo range worked on it or not. I definitely need to go back over to his house and look again and take some pictures.

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Terry...kind of what I was guessing. :D

Now are you saying there is a hi/low in it now?

That would have to be swapped in, but not an uncommon mod.

The 867 are the only short frame to come with the 8 speed.....Kevin & Dennis "new member WH867" have them.

Dale I never took a tape measure to any of my tractors....but thats good info.

I'm surprised the wheel base is only 2" differance.

Feels like more than that when you jump seats between a long & short frame.

I assume you mean the later 520H with the fancy axle?

I've been told that the 308-8 speed had a mid size frame...shorter than a long but longer than a short?...any ideas? :P

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Stephen,

I have used this tractor a couple of months back, and if I remember correctly there was a lever for hi/lo range. But I'm not 100% sure on that. :D I need to go back and get myself reacquainted with it.

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So guys, what do I need to fit my GT1142 because the blade that I have on there now is not the right one. It came off an 875 and it was to short so I lengthened it 11inchs but now it is front heavy, very hard to lift.

Willy

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About 9 posts above yours is a picture of the correct long frame blade. 11 inches seems close to the overall difference in length.

Which axle mount are you using?

Did you move your lift point forward on the A frame when you stretched it?

Make sure your lift handle linkage on the tractor is set up right too.

These blades aren't made by MTD and you can tell that when you pull back on the lift handle.

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About 9 posts above yours is a picture of the correct long frame blade. 11 inches seems close to the overall difference in length.

Which axle mount are you using?

Did you move your lift point forward on the A frame when you stretched it?

Make sure your lift handle linkage on the tractor is set up right too.

These blades aren't made by MTD and you can tell that when you pull back on the lift handle.

Yes I moved the lift point forward and I'm using the axle bracket in the forground of the pic. I don't have the flat bar that's between the blade frame and the tractor, but I can make one of those.

It's the pic in the first post for the bracket.

Willy

Attached Image (Click thumbnail to expand)

post-4-1199770411.jpg

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Willy something about that A frame looks funny? :D

You did say in a previous post you had modified the length correct?

Could you measure it from the mount at the back to the pivot bolt at the front?

Also are you lifting the snow plow directly off the bellcrank or off the lift bar that connects to the bell crank on the later models like yours?

This will give you more leverage & make it easier to lift.

I have a spare snow plow & pieces to put on your tractor.....you have an 875 I'd like.... :P

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Yes I moved the lift point forward and I'm using the axle bracket in the forground of the pic. I don't have the flat bar that's between the blade frame and the tractor, but I can make one of those.

It's the pic in the first post for the bracket.

Willy

I don't see any lift link in that picture. How did you lift it before you realized you needed the link?

The frame looks a little extra long too. My theory is that the blade should clear the front tire by about 2 inches max when fully angled. Anymore than that and you start multiplying the "push the front of the tractor sideways" effect when you push with an angled blade.

P.S. >> as a previous owner of 2 GT1100/1142's, you should try to hang some extra weight on the front of the tractor frame to aid with steering. Those little Briggs engines are about 45 pounds lighter than the big Kohlers and you can really feel the difference when the blade is angled. (especially on the second notch)

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Willy -

I don't see any lift link in that picture. How did you lift it before you realized you needed the link?

Never mind....

I see what you did. You used the mower deck lift point on the lift bar. (#27 in the picture) You're lucky you can even pull the lever back at all!

The link you need is about 4 inches long and hooks where the following diagram specfies. That should make it much easier to lift you blade.

cb9bc073.jpg

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TT your thinking he has the lift bar going directly into the A frame? :D

If so that make things bind up & would be very hard to lift! :P

I'm thinking thats an early long frame style too?...I thought it was odd how far it stuck out too.

I have come across a few short frames with them on there?

Just thinking ideas...I'm not to far from Willy & may have to make a house call.

Never though about the B&S engines...but sharp eye again TT...all aluminium & not even a steel cylinder liner.

Front wheel weights with the Work Horse smoothies tires in front would be a big help!

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Yeah -- the lift link attachment is way too far forward. He said it's a "short frame" A frame lengthened 11 inches.

Looks like something is sticking out off the "T bar" (as some people call it) to reach it? :D

OR .... maybe it has a real long lift link with a sharp bend so it can be hooked up to the lift arm, but throws the geometry off so bad that it's pulling back while trying to lift at the same time????? :P

No wonder he can't lift it! :(

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Willy something about that A frame looks funny? :D

You did say in a previous post you had modified the length correct?

Could you measure it from the mount at the back to the pivot bolt at the front?

Also are you lifting the snow plow directly off the bellcrank or off the lift bar that connects to the bell crank on the later models like yours?

This will give you more leverage & make it easier to lift.

I have a spare snow plow & pieces to put on your tractor.....you have an 875 I'd like.... :P

Tickster next time I'm in Mi. I'll measure. Looking at my own picture, the blade does look like it's too far forward, I put a two piece lift linkage on it. I lengthened it just forward on the frame where it starts to bend in, is that confusing. I suppose I should measure it with the blade at full angle, leave a few inches for clearance and shorten the frame. If anyone has a schmatic on how the frame attatches to the tractor I would appreciate a pic. Thanks .

Willy

Also what is the bellcrank? I added another piece of angle iron to the frame.

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Now I think I know what I did wrong, I have it hooked on the wrong lever. I have it hooked to the snow thrower hole instead of the blade hole. Thanks everyone.

Willy

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Am I right to assume that no.19 is hooked to no.27 by the lift bar? If so are the nuts put on loose to allow it to pivot?

Willy

OK I see no19 is the bell crank.

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Willy there is a chain that runs between the "Rockshaft #19" & the "lift bar#27".

You can see it in the blow up...the chain hangs off the trunion & is bolted to the lift bar.

There is also another link about 4" long that hangs off the lift arm & then attaches to the plows A frame.

8875fc04.jpg

You can see it in Terry's 520 plow pic...the silver colored part ..that what attaches to your lift arm.

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Tickster I think I'm on the right track now. I am missing the silver part plus the horizontal part in Terry's pic. Also my lever to change the blade angle is not offset, will I have to make a new one? Thanks

Willy

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Well your trying to adapt a snow plow to your tractor that was built for the earlyer machines with no floor boards.

They used a direct link between the A frame & the rock shaft.

You may have to heat the arm up & add a bend to it?

I don't know if you can swap a later style angle lever on to your early A frame & get the results you want?

If you decide you want...I have a few snowplows here that will go right on your tractor with all the peices to do so.

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Here is another shot

Did you try to move things around on your blade yet?

If you have a piece of chain that you could bolt to the A frame crossmember (drill a hole in it) and up to the hole (part #27 -- marked "Snow / Grader blade) in the lift arm, that would even temporarily work.

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Terry I don't think he has part #27? :D

I am missing the silver part plus the horizontal part in Terry's pic.

I'm thinking that peice were seeing in the closeup is the angle lever layed over on it's side?

I'f you don't have part #27 you can run a chain up to part #19 "the rock shaft" & pull it up from there.

But it will be hard on the arm.

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Terry I don't think he has part #27? :D

I'm thinking that peice were seeing in the closeup is the angle lever layed over on it's side?

The lift lever is in the up position in the picture, so you shouldn't be able to see the "T bar" (part #27).

I looked at both pictures again and actually didn't see anything between the tractor and the blade frame. :P

The photo of the right side shows the angle lever hooked up and vertical, so I don't have a clue what that is.

I'm going to try to get pictures of my 416 so he can see EXACTLY what he has to do.

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OK... here we go:

Part #27 hooked to the A frame with the link:

3e67e2dd.jpg

And part #19 hooked to part #27 with the trunnion, eyebolt and chain (parts 20 & 22):

eabfe1ed.jpg

It's 24 inches from the rear mounting rod (where it hooks to the Attach-Matic hitch) to the lift link attachment point on the A frame.

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