5xi smart turn delete

[fatboycowen 30]

So, i decided to rip this thing apart further, and figure out how this smart turn function works. I removed the seat and the fender.

 

It's actually pretty simple, and all mechanical. In the front, when you turn the wheel, there is a lever, that drives a rod. When properly adjusted (mine is WAY off), when the wheel is straight, the rod is pushed all the way back.  The first photo shows how this affects the rear. That rod holds this piece down when it's pushed back.

 

Picture 2 shows the position of this piece when the rod is all the way forward. 

 

When the rod isn't all the way forward, it basically limits the transmission input position. 

 

Unfortunately, if you just disconnect the rod (like the previous owner did), the gold part in the picture wants to pull itself up when you step on the motion control pedal, and basically permanently enables smart steer. Mine was so out of whack. It's going to be so much faster when i fix this.

 

So, my question is, why not disable the smart turn system back here, rather than way up front? It seems i could simply weld the sliding piece in the photo to the guide it slides in, which would keep the smart steer in full speed permanently. If i didnt want to weld, i could make an L shaped piece of steel with a slotted hole, and bolt it through, which would hold this lever down, and keep it at full speed.

 

Is there anything wrong with that approach? It seems so much simpler than goofing around up front.

Edited September 14, 2014 by fatboycowen

[RMCIII 838]

There is a "Smart Turn" delete offerd by WH.

[Forest Road 594]

There is a "Smart Turn" delete offerd by WH.

I tried ordering it a couple years ago. No longer available.

[fatboycowen 30]

Alright. I found a really easy and cheap way to do this, i think. I haven't tested it yet. SIMPLE! Totally reversable too. Only simple tools needed.

So, the smart turn linkage at the front, drives a rod to the rear. The rod at the rear attaches to what you see in the photo (actuator arm of some kind, not sure what it's called. There happens to be a 1" hole in the frame RIGHT where the linkage connects, when the smart turn is OFF.  I assume it's for removing the bolt. It's perfectly placed.

It's so simple, it's crazy. Here is all you have to do:

 

Pull the rear fenders. I did it myself, but a second person would have been nice.  It's easy mechanically. Be careful of the fuel tank. It's kinda loose. Don't jarr it to much. It won't fall off unless you are real ham fisted with it.

 

Disconnect the smart steer in the front. Right behind the firewall. Turn the steering wheel and watch what happens to get an idea what needs to be disconnected. It's just one bolt to pull. With the rear fenders off, the metal screens (sides and front) under the dash come off very easily with screws.  The access is easy.

 

Find the linkage in the pics.

 

Disconnect it.  Buy a 3/8" bolt, 2 to 2.5" long. Buy a steel spacer. Mine is 3/4" long, 3/4" OD, 3/8" ID. Buy some heavy duty fender washers and regular washers.

 

The order of my assembly is as follows, from the side of the frame, inward.

Bolt

Fender washer

Frame

Fender washer

Spacer

2 washers - to fill the space almost perfectly between the frame and the actuater arm thing (important, don't want to bend that arm when the bolt is tightened).

Arm thing

nut

 

fit it up, and tighten it down. Make sure the actuator rod you disconnected is out of the way (above). The fender washer squashes in a bit, which will help prevent it from moving back and forth in the larger frame hole. I tightened mine down real hard.

 

Then, i had to zip tie the actuator rod above the spacer. If it's loose, it could fall down and interfere with the motion control actuator, which could be real bad. Another option is to remove it entirely, which i may do later, once i determine that this works.

 

The motion control linkage works perfectly now, and gives the transmission input full range, no smart turn. When the tractor is in neutral, the motion control lever operates as normal.

 

I think the parts were like $5 at the local hardware store, maybe less. The spacer is like $2.90, which is the only "expensive" part. 

 

Hope this helps other owners. I'll report back once i test it.

 

Jon

 

[fatboycowen 30]

Another note:

I originally intended to leave the actuator rod in place. But, i bought too thick of a spacer. You could do that.

[shallowwatersailor 3,213]

I tried ordering it a couple years ago. No longer available.

? On Partstree it is listed for $48.15, part #104-5051.

[Forest Road 594]

? On Partstree it is listed for $48.15, part #104-5051.

When I look it up Part 1 comes up as no longer available. I've lived with it this long it's not really a big deal.

On a positive note. My 6 year old started driving the 314h. In a few years he'll be on the Xi. Then I'll be thankful for the smart steer.

[fatboycowen 30]

? On Partstree it is listed for $48.15, part #104-5051.

That's nuts, considering what the part is.

[shallowwatersailor 3,213]

Four years ago it was $15.00 less. With three tractors that have it installed I can't afford to change them all; plus it actually doesn't bother me. I am more afraid of putting gas in the diesel, and vice versa! Sell the two gas engines and get two more diesels.

[doc724 924]

Hey John,

 

Color code (paint it red) the fuel cap on the diesel.  Not 100% mistake proof but better than leaving all of them black   Of course, it will be of no help  if you mix up the fuel cans at the gas station

[shallowwatersailor 3,213]

Hey John,

 

Color code (paint it red) the fuel cap on the diesel.  Not 100% mistake proof but better than leaving all of them black   Of course, it will be of no help  if you mix up the fuel cans at the gas station

Hi Don,

 

Actually I added another label. The black one is from Toro and the yellow one is mine. I bought a nice No Spill diesel can as well. After I bought it, I spent an afternoon trying to cross reference a yellow molded cap seeing as Toro makes diesel Ground Maintenance equipment but no luck. I have also noticed that there are Green caps for diesel fuel now as well. Is that due to Bio-Diesel fuel?

 

 

John

[redtractorfan 13]

Alright. I found a really easy and cheap way to do this, i think. I haven't tested it yet. SIMPLE! Totally reversable too. Only simple tools needed.

So, the smart turn linkage at the front, drives a rod to the rear. The rod at the rear attaches to what you see in the photo (actuator arm of some kind, not sure what it's called. There happens to be a 1" hole in the frame RIGHT where the linkage connects, when the smart turn is OFF. I assume it's for removing the bolt. It's perfectly placed.

It's so simple, it's crazy. Here is all you have to do:

Pull the rear fenders. I did it myself, but a second person would have been nice. It's easy mechanically. Be careful of the fuel tank. It's kinda loose. Don't jarr it to much. It won't fall off unless you are real ham fisted with it.

Disconnect the smart steer in the front. Right behind the firewall. Turn the steering wheel and watch what happens to get an idea what needs to be disconnected. It's just one bolt to pull. With the rear fenders off, the metal screens (sides and front) under the dash come off very easily with screws. The access is easy.

Find the linkage in the pics.

Disconnect it. Buy a 3/8" bolt, 2 to 2.5" long. Buy a steel spacer. Mine is 3/4" long, 3/4" OD, 3/8" ID. Buy some heavy duty fender washers and regular washers.

The order of my assembly is as follows, from the side of the frame, inward.

Bolt

Fender washer

Frame

Fender washer

Spacer

2 washers - to fill the space almost perfectly between the frame and the actuater arm thing (important, don't want to bend that arm when the bolt is tightened).

Arm thing

nut

fit it up, and tighten it down. Make sure the actuator rod you disconnected is out of the way (above). The fender washer squashes in a bit, which will help prevent it from moving back and forth in the larger frame hole. I tightened mine down real hard.

Then, i had to zip tie the actuator rod above the spacer. If it's loose, it could fall down and interfere with the motion control actuator, which could be real bad. Another option is to remove it entirely, which i may do later, once i determine that this works.

The motion control linkage works perfectly now, and gives the transmission input full range, no smart turn. When the tractor is in neutral, the motion control lever operates as normal.

I think the parts were like $5 at the local hardware store, maybe less. The spacer is like $2.90, which is the only "expensive" part.

Hope this helps other owners. I'll report back once i test it.

Jon

Jon,

Have you tried your way of disabling the smart turn? If so, how did it turn out? Just wondering because I've been considering finding a way to disable mine.

[JERSEYHAWG / Glenn 4,487]

I never thought to disable it? Why,,,just asking.

Glenn

[redtractorfan 13]

Sometimes when I'm backing my 520Lxi, and have the wheels turned all the way in one direction (backing a trailer or box blade 45-75 degrees into a tight place), it sometimes will not move. I then will have to straighten the wheels in order for it to get the momentum to start moving backwards. By then, I have either jacked the trailer into the wrong direction or have the box blade where I don't want it. It's not the only time I've cussed the smart turn feature. I was just curious to see if Jon had made any progress on the way he disabled his.

[fatboycowen 30]

When I wrote this, I had completed the conversion. Been using it ever since. I think I have about 20 hours on it since.

It's perfect. It's as is the tractor never had that feature. I never even think about it. I ended up removing the actuator arms.

I didn't update the thread because there didn't seem to be much interest. Hopefully this will end up helping someone. It's a very simple conversion.

[Rick_in_CT 156]

There is a smart turn delete kit currently listed on ebay.

[redtractorfan 13]

I saw that one on eBay, but I just can't bring it to myself to pay $60ish for a part that really isn't more than $5-$10 in steel.

[fatboycowen 30]

With the method I used, I can't see why anyone would want to pay for this modification.

[shallowwatersailor 3,213]

My own opinion. After finally getting enough snow to use my Dxi with the cab installed, I'm glad that I do have the Smart Turn feature. Blowing snow for 1-1/2 hours, my feet were pretty numb and not as "sharp" around parked cars using the foot pedal.

 

The tractor should be able to move in reverse, even in Low, with the steer tires cranked over. You may need to adjust the motion control.

Edited January 27, 2015 by shallowwatersailor

[JERSEYHAWG / Glenn 4,487]

I dont even have the snow blower on the xi yet. I put the other snowblower on my 520. I learned one thing,,again,,after looking like santa all morning. I need a cab,,boy do I need a cab.

Glenn

[Forest Road 594]

I had a cab on a 520h. I'm to stinking tall to use it.

[shallowwatersailor 3,213]

G

 

I had a cab on a 520h. I'm to stinking tall to use it.

Good thing I'm only 5' 14"!   I have enough trouble climbing on and off the C-105 and 520-H without a cab gracefully. Actually the 5xi cab is easier to fit because the there isn't much of a hump to step over plus it's wider. Appearance-wise it looks out of proportion though.

Edited January 27, 2015 by shallowwatersailor