Wayne 28 #1 Posted September 12, 2014 (edited) well, here i go... knew i couldn't resist changing my mind from "make it run and mow" to " make it run good, look good and mow" I started taking it apart this afternoon, mostly to prepare for the new engine. (pics of that later) step 1 was remove the briggs 5 horse next i decided to air the tires... will need a front tube, not too bad so far... lifted up the front end and wiggled the tires... going to need front wheel bearings... king pins are tight, rack is tight, tie rods are tight. :happy-jumpyellow: Seat... trash, but I think there is enough left to make some patterns from it. so I took it off (obvious that i have to fix the seat frame anyway) found this not so much rust in the mounts, but the rear 2 are cracked around the outer edge. oh, and back to the seat frame and A little welding will fix the seat frame, and the fender I did notice that I will need a shaft seal on the left side, otherwise everything is looking better than ever expected. more to come Edited September 12, 2014 by Wayne Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Geno 1,928 #2 Posted September 12, 2014 Way to go Wayne! I think all horses deserve to look good while they work! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PeacemakerJack 10,670 #3 Posted September 12, 2014 Wayne, this horse will be a solid runner and look good working when you get it finished. Good luck! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne 28 #4 Posted September 12, 2014 (edited) I took the fender assy. off the tractor and found more stress cracks, no big deal there, but body work is NOT one of my stronger points... it is twisted out of shape, and dented on the rear and on the left side. should I reshape it first, or weld it first? any body men out there? Edited September 12, 2014 by Wayne Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Geno 1,928 #5 Posted September 12, 2014 Those things are awfully tough Wayne. They can be repaired but if you can find a good one for cheap it will save you a lot of trouble. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nhunt308 143 #6 Posted September 12, 2014 (edited) Im not a body man but weld is going to be hard and may crack instead of bend depending on the location. I would shape it first and then weld if it were me. seems to me that if you don't you may be welding twice. someone correct me if im wrong. Edited September 12, 2014 by nhunt308 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne 28 #7 Posted September 12, 2014 thanks Geno, I know it would be easier, but maybe slightly less satisfying. Remember this isn't just a project I picked up, It was my grandfather's, and he babied it, and I as a younger man/boy/idiot let it get this way It's kind of a personal thing. Like buying an h60 for it instead of a repower. If it was less personal I may have tried to stick a pan head or a shovel head on it, or a modern OHV engine. Please don't take offense to this, just want to convey the feeling that comes with me and this particular WH Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne 28 #8 Posted September 12, 2014 (edited) nhunt308, good point, thanks, hadn't thought of that, also not sure if i want to mig weld, or oxy/acetaline, or maybe even braze it. hey, brazing might just work better for this... any thoughts on that? Edited September 12, 2014 by Wayne Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Geno 1,928 #9 Posted September 12, 2014 I forgot it was a family tractor Wayne, I would do the same as you in that case. I would form it first, mig weld it after. If there's a lot of vibration the braze may not hold or may crack. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne 28 #10 Posted September 12, 2014 Thanks, will do it that way. now i need to go find my hammers and dollies... I think I remember where they are... heading to P-V Ranch, where most of my bigger stuff resides.(my father in law's place) better grab my sandblaster while i am there, lol Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne 28 #11 Posted September 13, 2014 OK, about an hoour of cussin at myself later... here it is... not perfect, but without REALLY looking no one will know the difference... is there a "pat's self on the back" emoticon? if not there should be, I need it LOL. I do know better than to try to paint in the dark, wet sand in the dark, etc. so that's it for today. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nhunt308 143 #12 Posted September 13, 2014 Good work!!! Your coming along good. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne 28 #13 Posted September 14, 2014 Everything was going too smooth on thi project... got a real hang up now, going to need to find some engine parts... see h60 in engines for details Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nhunt308 143 #14 Posted September 15, 2014 I dont have a working engine either. .. but ill worry about that eventually. What else can you do but keep working... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slammer302 2,154 #15 Posted September 15, 2014 I restored a suburban with no motor it came together in the end Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne 28 #16 Posted September 16, 2014 well, it looks like it's going to happen will have some updates soon Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne 28 #17 Posted September 18, 2014 does anyone know what the correct color is for the deck wheels? seems the later toro replacements are red, but i could swear i remembered the originals being white. this would be on a RM-116 32" deck TIA Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slammer302 2,154 #18 Posted September 18, 2014 I would say white Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne 28 #19 Posted September 18, 2014 really thought so, just wasn't sure thanks, white it is! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nhunt308 143 #20 Posted October 9, 2014 Wayne ,how's this thing coming along? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
