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I was thinking more on the lines of a pinned block where only you could add posts. Maybe in the Technical Faq's section. There seems to be no one using it as there is nothing in it. Then I a member has a problem he can search there first before posting. If someone fails to find an answer then he could be referred directly to that link. There must be hundreds of your examples already posted on the forum.

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well I now have the correct ignition switch and will start hooking it back up.

The clutch switch was working.

The seat switch was not hooked up and I don't plan on hooking it back up in less I have to.

Now where to start is may first question?

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When the pto is OFF 1/2 the pto switch powers the ignition so start like that. That should get you running.

 

When the pto is ON the above switch opens so the seat switch is the one that powers the ignition now. Operator is seat closes the seat switch and powers the ignition.

 

Garry

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well I now have the correct switch and will be needing some help.....first is that the seat switch is not hooked up and don't plan on hooking it back up unless I have too.

I guess I will start with wires coming out of the engine..just two of them and they are both what I call a dirty yellow....

or I can start just about anywhere.....

Thanks in advance

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Nappy,

 

my thoughts would be to start simple and get a few small victories under your belt first.

 

I would trace back the wire from the headlights and wire that to the "A" terminal of the ignition switch.

 

I would then find the wire attached to the "B+" terminal of the voltage regulator and wire it to the "B" terminal of the ignition switch.

 

Turn the switch to the RUN position, and flip the lights switch and your headlights should come on. First victory and you gain some confidence in your wiring / tracing ability.

 

Next step would be trace the starter relay wire back from the small terminal of the starter relay and attach that to the "S" terminal of the ignition switch.

Turn the ignition switch to the START position and the engine should crank (won't start yet without the "I" terminal wired.

 

Let's get this far - cranking and headlight s on - then we can go further.

Edited by Save Old Iron
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ok and thanks...

all wires are unhooked and there are a couple that were spliced together and ignition switch is not hooked up.

I cant do much work on it today because of weather here but will get back on it Monday.

I would like to ad a few pictures but i don't know how yet? 

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I would then find the wire attached to the "B+" terminal of the voltage regulator and wire it to the "B" terminal of the ignition switch.

I don't remember seeing a voltage regulator on this 416-8 anywhere or am I not looking hard enough.....

can somebody post a picture of one?

thanks

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I dont have a picture available at the moment but it is on the rear cylinder engine tin. Right on top , in front of the battery. I will go snap a pick quick. OOPPS wrong engine....

Edited by Theroundhousernr

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Well Sir.

 

I am surprised a 416-8 would not have a regulator but a quick look in the Toro schematics for an '85 shows it could also be an unregulated charging system.

 

Look for a dark green (lights) and a white (charge) wire coming out of the engine. The white wire may have a "lump" in the wire which is the charge diode.

 

I ASSumed this tractor would have a regulated charge system, but apparently the 416 could be an unregulated system too.

 

This would change my approach to my advice I gave earlier for the small victories in starting the rewire.

 

See if you have the green an white wires coming from the engine.

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Hello and I do have the wire with the lump and sort of a green wire coming out of the engine.

I don't remember ever seeing a regulator maybe I should get one?

thanks again for the help

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been under the weather lately and haven't done any work on it.

I plan to do some Thursday and will need some help.....

thanks

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I don't know why but a lot of the 85 + 86 tractors had a 3 amp charging system with a diode for a "regulator".  My 86 414-8 has this and I've worked on several like this. The diode would be in the harness coming out of the engine near a disconnect.  The diode shouldl be an inch or two toward the tractor side, not the engine side.   These can also be upgraded to the newer 15 amp system for around 150.00 in parts.   :)

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You will need the stator, regulator and flywheel if I remeber right, haven't done one in a few years.  I can hook you up with my dealer in Jersey where I get the parts to do it, he's done a lot of them and taught me.    :) 

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thanks and I might wait till I get it running again before I upgrade.

does the upgrade help much?

thanks

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If you're running extra lights or accessories directly off of the battery it makes all the difference in the world. 

Edited by Geno

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well been working on it and got it cranking but no run yet..

It has a volt meter on it and seems like it came with amp meter when it was new.

Volt meter is plugged in and has a extra wire that has current when key is on..no idea what that hooks to...

thanks

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Volt gauge may not work since it doesn't show anything....I wonder if I should get a amp meter since that is what it came with when it was new..

it didn't have a hour meter..

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Have you tried giving it a shot of ether or carb cleaner, or putting a little gas in the carb to see if it starts?  Are you getting any spark?

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I tried ether and no go yet, got plenty of gas in the tank and gas going to carb...

have to look over my wiring...

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well and I am the cart before the horse I checked the coil with my old analog ohm meter and its bad....

My next question is can I get a coil at a auto parts place?

Or does anybody have a part number for it?

I did take a few pictures of the meter reading and I would be glad to show them.

email karlkirchner@att.net and I will send them.

thanks

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Karl, you should be able to pick up a correct coil at an auto parts store.

 

Ask for a 12 volt coil that DOES NOT require an external resistor. If you have a choice between oil filled and epoxy filled, go with epoxy. The single cylinder engines vibrate and epoxy coils will survive longer in a high vibration environment.

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thanks and still have to rewire some since I been working on it..

I wonder if I would need some type of part number?

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