question about 6-12 Carlisle Tru Power ag tires?

[305 380]

i'm going to order some for my `68 Commando 6. they claim to be tubeless , but should i run tubes too? will they seal up OK without tubes , or be slow leakers?   i ask because the old Firestone turf tires i just took off the extra rims i picked up had tubes in them. the rims are now being sandblasted and will be powered coated.

 

another tire question.....i also see on eBay some Namco Advanced  6-12 ag tires that the sellers claim to be better made.   what is you experience and which do you prefer?

[redrooster 83]

I'd go with Carlisle. Made in the USA. By the time you pay shipping you can them mounted for little difference in price.

[specialwheelhorse 174]

And tube them, you will wish you had if you dont

[Geno 1,928]

Sounds like the rim will be clean so there should be no need for a tube.  I never use a tube in a new tire unless we are putting calcium in there.  Carlisle is the best no doubt.  Multi-Mile is making a lot of these tires also, some of them at half the price of Carlisle but you usually get what you pay for. 

[Shynon 7,435]

Tubes

[Geno 1,928]

I guess I'm missing something with the tube thing.  I always thought if I sold a new tire and put a tube in it also it was redundent and cost the customer more for no reason.  If the rim is clean and looks good where the bead seats there would be no leaks.  I also thought if someone runs over something that punctures the new tire it would get the tube as well.  If there was no tube and the tire was fine until punctured (if it was in the tread), it could simply be plugged without the wheel or tire removal.  On the down side, if the tire and tube are punctured the tire must be removed to patch the tube which is 10 times the work and cost to the customer. 

 

Can anyone tell me the need for or the benefit of a tube in a new tire on a good rim?  

[T McCool 287]

I love my Carlisle's. Running them tubeless. Beads are sealed up with that black goop from the tire shop. No leaks over the past year.

[Tankman 3,515]

Good (or new) tires, rims OK, skip the tubes.

 

Tubes can be added later if needed.

[Racinbob 10,277]

Good point Geno. With good rims and tires I wouldn't tube them but I don't hesitate if questionable. With the low pressures rim seepage is more likely but if done right it shouldn't be a problem. I recently tubed one of my rears due to a slow leak that just couldn't be found.

[Geno 1,928]

If I get one of those slow drive you nuts leaks I've found an easy way to find them.  I have 3 little ponds out here next to the shop so I just take it out to one of them and stick it under water.  Makes it real easy.  

[Racinbob 10,277]

I tried everything Geno, including a dip in the pool (when the wife was at work of course) . I even tried pumping it up to about 30psi and it still wouldn't come out of hiding. I just gave up and tubed it.

[305 380]

looks like we are evenly divided on tubes/no tubes.  i don't want and can't stand slow leaks , so i ordered tubes too.  i'm getting Carlisle.  i will try without tubes first , but if i get a leak the tubes are going in

 

thanks to all for the advice

[T McCool 287]

Good plan.

[jwl 75]

one reason for tubes was that old rims sometimes had tiny pin holes where the band was weld together. Also at one time the rims had the center plate riveted to the blank, and there were air leak at this point. Not sure this is found on any of the newer WH stuff, but on my Pond walkers, the rims are rivet centered.