Theroundhousernr 589 #1 Posted July 17, 2014 (edited) Just brought home a new project. The sheet metal is in super shape , just really dirty. I have an eaton 1100 to put in it from my 416 that smokes. I like the hood and dash better from the 500 series than the 400 series. The 416 smokes real bad and I would rather rebuild the p218 onan if possible. It came with a smashed up 48" deck that may be savable but I am not worried about that now. I was hoping for a valve seat. It ran great on one cylinder onto the truck. No smoke or knocks so I had high hopes. Well I pulled the rear plug and saw no movement tonight. Then I decided , its just a hand full of bolts to get the head off and here is what I found. It is a broken rod.... darn. What has me worried are these chatter marks in the bore. You can't feel the marks with your finger nail. I will have to take it down further to find out more on the inside. This will be a budget onan rebuild. I will only be replacing the parts that are worn out. I am hoping to get away with pistons , and rods. Crank and cam bearings if need be. Also any little things that need replacing and seals. We shall see I guess. So in the end I will have a 518 with eaton 1100. . Not sure what to call it. Here are some pictures. I am hoping to have it running before fall. Edited July 17, 2014 by Theroundhousernr 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Theroundhousernr 589 #3 Posted July 17, 2014 They are there now. It took a second to get them off my phone. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
km3h 543 #4 Posted July 17, 2014 Call it what it is!!!! WHEEL HORSE Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Desko 552 #5 Posted July 17, 2014 Its looks like that's where the piston had been sitting in the bore. If you replace the rods replace both but its an onan it should be just fine on the inside lol. Make sure you mic everything. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Theroundhousernr 589 #6 Posted July 17, 2014 Don't worry, I will be replacing both. I am not on that much of a budget lol I was thinking that's where the piston was sitting also. It had been sitting with gas in the cylinder so I was thinking its just a discoloration from that. I am amazed of the stories about onans with busted rods and the blocks are still in great shape. Kohlers are the same way for the most part too. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ericj 1,576 #7 Posted July 17, 2014 bet you are wishing you hadn't traded that 520 away now huh. if i had know he was going to drop that much on the price that would have been sitting at my house now, good luck with the rebuild eric j Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sorekiwi 761 #8 Posted July 17, 2014 I'd rather fix an Onan with a broken rod than one with a loose valve seat. The engine in my 520 was just that, I too had expected to find a loose seat but instead found a broken rod. There are several different Onan rods, use a matched pair to retain balance in the engine. Mine was a very budget rebuild, I bought another engine (that did have a bad seat) and used the rods and pistons from that. I mixed and matched a few other bits from the two engines to find the best bits that I could. New rings and gaskets. I think I had a little over $300 in the motor. 5 years later it now is starting to use a little oil, but I think I got my moneys worth. Coincidentally I also have a 518 with an Eaton 1100, Its a good tractor. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Theroundhousernr 589 #9 Posted July 17, 2014 bet you are wishing you hadn't traded that 520 away now huh. if i had know he was going to drop that much on the price that would have been sitting at my house now, good luck with the rebuild eric j Eric, that was not my 520. It was my friends brother's. I did however hear that 520 run and even though stuff have been robbed off of it and the sheet metal was a little beat up, it sure did run great. Really smooth and no knocking. In fact, I even offered to buy him a 60 inch deck for the tractor but he had already worked out the deal with you. You got a good deal on that thing , even if it was just for the engine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Theroundhousernr 589 #10 Posted July 17, 2014 I'd rather fix an Onan with a broken rod than one with a loose valve seat. The engine in my 520 was just that, I too had expected to find a loose seat but instead found a broken rod. There are several different Onan rods, use a matched pair to retain balance in the engine. Mine was a very budget rebuild, I bought another engine (that did have a bad seat) and used the rods and pistons from that. I mixed and matched a few other bits from the two engines to find the best bits that I could. New rings and gaskets. I think I had a little over $300 in the motor. 5 years later it now is starting to use a little oil, but I think I got my moneys worth. Coincidentally I also have a 518 with an Eaton 1100, Its a good tractor. Curious minds want to know.... My 416 has the column mounted hydraulic lift and the 518 obviously has the manual lift. The 416 and 518 do not share the same dash. How did you set up the hydraulic lift when making the change? I have to figure that part out yet. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sorekiwi 761 #11 Posted July 17, 2014 Curious minds want to know.... My 416 has the column mounted hydraulic lift and the 518 obviously has the manual lift. The 416 and 518 do not share the same dash. How did you set up the hydraulic lift when making the change? I have to figure that part out yet. My trans came from a blackhood tractor, so the lift valve had the short lever directly on it. Its mounted in the standard spot, at the bottom of the console. I dont seem to have a picture. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ericj 1,576 #12 Posted July 17, 2014 when i did the trans swap in my 312A i by passed the hydro lift and kept my electric lift and when i do the swap on my 518 i will by pass the hydro lift and keep the manual lift on it eric j Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Theroundhousernr 589 #13 Posted July 22, 2014 Project 518h is coming along smoothly. Everyone keep there fingers crossed for me when I head to the machine shop. Cylinders actually appear pretty decent. No ridge at the top and little to no scoring. Tomorrow I'm going to pressure wash the block and crack it open. Biggest hurtle will be pulling the crank gear. I'm sure it will come off just fine but we will see. Hoping for good news with rod journals. My local shop wants 270 to turn the crank. Does that sounds steep to you guys? Anyway, some pictures Exhaust Tin, starter, and fuel system. Charging and ignition Everyone should know these two. If not your in the wrong hobby lol. Just kidding guys. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MalMac 1,328 #14 Posted July 22, 2014 I have not had one turned in a while, but seems to be on the high side to me. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 36,941 #15 Posted July 22, 2014 Crazy money. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sorekiwi 761 #16 Posted July 22, 2014 That timing gear is on tight, I had to make a puller to remove mine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Theroundhousernr 589 #17 Posted July 22, 2014 (edited) I was pretty sure that was crazy money but I don't do this often enough to be sure. Thanks The weird part was he told me a valve job was around 30. Boring would be around 65 a hole. I even asked him what a repair on the valve seat would be if I needed it and he said no more then 125. I'm even fine with the cost of the onan parts but then he threw the crank grind price at me. I guess I will shop around a little. My buddy uses him all the time and he said take it out to him and show him what you got. He thinks it is a miscommunication. What is a ball park figure on the price to grind a crank? Oh and here is the 416h donor. Edited July 22, 2014 by Theroundhousernr Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Molon_Labe 731 #18 Posted July 22, 2014 Maybe he was quoting all of the machine work. $50~$60 a throw for the crankshaft seems more in line. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Theroundhousernr 589 #19 Posted July 23, 2014 (edited) Well, you can stop crossing your fingers....Lol rod is seized in the piston and also did a number to the crank and cylinder. It's surely going to need the full rebuild. I'm just hoping the cylinder will clean up. What a shame. With just a little maintenance this motor would be like new yet. Zero wear on the other crank and the other cylinder looks beautiful besides the scratches I'm guessing from debris. Other side Edited July 23, 2014 by Theroundhousernr Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Theroundhousernr 589 #20 Posted July 23, 2014 Pistons..... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Desko 552 #21 Posted July 23, 2014 That's only aluminum on the crank if it didn't cut into the crank all they will have to do is dip it into a hot tank to clean it. As for the cylinders they should clean up with a hone there will be a ridge at the to but its not a ring ridge its where the sleeve meets the aluminum if you don't believe there's a sleeve take a magnet to it. Hope it all works out for the best Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Theroundhousernr 589 #22 Posted July 23, 2014 (edited) Well, yes. It has a sleeve. Not sure about the ridge you are talking about at the top though. I understand that it is melted rod on the crank " aluminum" but I would be surprised if it wasn't scored in the process. My pictures are not the greatest but the scoring/ scratches in the cylinder are not going to just clean up with honing. I don't think so anyway. I will leave that up to the professionals though at the machine shop. Its looks pretty ugly in there. Actually there is no ridge from piston/ring wear. Not even a carbon ring at the top. Like I said earlier. Its a shame that it was not taking care of. There would have been a lot of life left on this motor without machining. Edited July 23, 2014 by Theroundhousernr Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Theroundhousernr 589 #23 Posted July 26, 2014 (edited) Well , check out my new Onan crank gear puller. Worked really good. I cant take much credit for it though. I borrowed the idea from a guy on mytractorforum and a friend of mine chucked it in the lathe to make it. But i did use it lol. Just 2 3/8 bolts , drilled and tapped. Then grade 8 10/32 bolts cut off and threaded into them. That was a great simple solution. Thanks to whoever came up with it. Hopefully this comes in handy for someone else. I didnt take pictures of the cam bearings but they are shot. Big chunks missing out of them. They didnt mark up the cam shaft so that is a good thing. Well Desko. You where right about the crank journal. It cleaned up great! Looks brand new. I used the Muriatic acid trick and then polished it with the soft grean scotch brite pad. It looks great. I hope it measures out ok.... Before..... After.... The cylinder cleaned up ok , but I am still thinking I am going to have to bore it. Not much of a big deal because I need new pistons anyway. The guy at the machine shop was out for vacation or that would have been done today. Talk about a real bummer. Had the engine all loaded up and pull up to a sign on the door saying" be back Monday, Out for vacation". Oh well. Thats all for now. I guess I should start a new thread in the engine section soon..... Edited July 26, 2014 by Theroundhousernr Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Theroundhousernr 589 #25 Posted July 30, 2014 (edited) Well guys. I went to the machine shop yesterday. The good news. The cam and crank measure fine and are within tolerance!! The bad news. I need to .020 over pistons. Standard rods . And all new bearings. The cam bearings where flaking apart and the mains are a little scored at places. So machine shop wants $415 to bore , hone ,valve grind and cook the block. If I get my parts through onanparts.com , my total comes out to $800.00! :*****: So I am looking at 1200 or so for rebuild. If I go through Garys place, I can cut the cost of parts in half using aftermarket stuff. But then I hear some of the aftermarket stuff is not so great when it comes to tolerance. I wouldnt mind if I was grinding the crank because then he could match the crank to the poor tolerance of the std bearing. I really need these std size bearing to be accurate. What should I do? Bag the whole build. Buy the original parts and keep it for 20 years. Or give a shot on the after market stuff. Maybe I could mix a little by doing aftermarket pistons since they are oversized anyway and buy the std parts from onanparts.com?? I could really use some advice because I am not sure at all what is the best way to move forward... Thanks Kyle Edited July 30, 2014 by Theroundhousernr Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
