Machria 77 #1 Posted July 9, 2014 Are there any Wheelhorse machanics on LI? I've got a problem with my GT14, and would love to have somebody fix it and do a few things to it. My GT14 has been running just fine, but last week I needed to move it, so I started it up and it sputtered out as I shut off the choke to fast. Nothing out of the ordinary.... When I turned it over again, it started for about 5 seconds and then just konked out and I have not been able to start it since. I checked the spark which looks fine and strong. It has fuel, which was not new, but did have conditioner in it which should have been ok. To be sure, I emptied the fuel, removed the inline fuel filter and blew it out (it seemed fine). I then added some new fresh fuel and re-tried and still nothing. It turns over just fine, as I have a nice strong AGM battery on it. Clogged carb possibly? What else ? I could remove the carb no problem, but what I don't like is all the linkages on the thing. I'm afraid I'd never get those all back on correctly.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 36,940 #2 Posted July 9, 2014 (edited) Probably the carb just needs a cleaning... before disassembly, take a couple close up picts of the linkage for reference Edited July 9, 2014 by AMC RULES Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Catmanii 36 #3 Posted July 9, 2014 AMC RULES is absolutly right on the pictures, saved me several times. In the meantime I would spray a little gas in the carb. to see if it will fire at all. If it does you know for sure it's the carb. If not there is an electrical problem. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Machria 77 #4 Posted July 9, 2014 Do I have to remove the front end (large cast piece headlights are in) and fuel tank to remove the carb? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Theroundhousernr 589 #5 Posted July 9, 2014 Things are pretty tight. You might be able to just remove the heat shield between the tank and carb. Biggest problem for me was the elbow and air filter housing, plus the coil mounted right in behind it made it impossible for me to remove the carb. It's only two bolts for the cast grill. Two bolts for the gas tank mounting plate and then two bolts for the hood frame pieces. I just tied the frame pieces up to keep them from falling in my way while working on the carb and valves. Oh and the head light wires. Makes life allot easier.... Kyle Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Digger 66 3,476 #6 Posted July 9, 2014 I hope you can Iron things out yourself . Posters above are right about the pictures ( you can always delete them ) . Sounds like a carb issue to me too . Will it run with the choke on ? Does it run on starting fluid ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tankman 3,515 #7 Posted July 10, 2014 I've experienced excellent results using Berryman's Total fuel system cleaner. Worked great when I used it on my '90 520-8 Onan. I am a believer! Without disassembly, was able to get the engine purring like a Harley. 1st, added to the fuel tank. 2nd, dribbled in the carb while cranking. Ran rough, 1st shot, but gradually cleaned the fuel system. http://www.berrymanproducts.com/products/gasoline/b-12-chemtool-total-fuel-system-clean-up-t-f-s-c/ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tankman 3,515 #8 Posted July 10, 2014 I've experienced excellent results using Berryman's Total fuel system cleaner. Worked great when I used it on my '90 520-8 Onan. I am a believer! Without disassembly, was able to get the engine purring like a Harley. 1st, added to the fuel tank. 2nd, dribbled in the carb while cranking. Ran rough, 1st shot, but gradually cleaned the fuel system. http://www.berrymanproducts.com/products/gasoline/b-12-chemtool-total-fuel-system-clean-up-t-f-s-c/ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Metal hauler 7 #9 Posted July 10, 2014 Try replacing the plug, champion plugs foul easy!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
c-series don 7,753 #10 Posted July 15, 2014 Hello fellow Long Islander, I agree with the good carb cleaning. Also try a new plug, because after pulling my hair out checking spark with a proper spark checker and also laying the plug on the head to see it spark(and it did)when I put it in the head it would not fire. So for the heck of it I put a new plug in it fired right up! Good luck. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wrmhaste 235 #11 Posted July 16, 2014 I agree with Don. Even if a plug fires out of the head that doesn't mean it will fire under pressure (compression). I've ran into this problem before on a 92 Mercedes car and a wheel horse for a customer. That I know of, there's no real way to test a plug under actual pressure. You can measure the kv of the wire while the plug is in and while it's out. There should be a slight drop while it's in due to the resistance. If you don't have the tools to do this already is much cheaper and easier to buy a new plug. Even having the right tools I normally just buy a new plug anyways. Good luck! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bitten 133 #12 Posted July 16, 2014 I am able to remove mine by removing the heat shield. Its tight but can be done. I would spray carb cleaner while turning it over and see if it will fire. If it does a good cleaning will take care of it. Good Luck. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 7,251 #13 Posted July 16, 2014 Machria: Foregoing any electrical problems with your Horse, I agree with Tankman that IF the root cause of the problem is lack of fuel AND a mild carb cleaning is in order, then Berryman's B12 is my choice too. Recently had a neighbor ask me to look at his 5 HP MTD snowblower, as it would start but not run with the choke off once warmed up. I added a QUARTER tank of fresh 91 Octane & Double the amount of B12. Fired it up on half choke and less than 5 minutes at 3/4 throttle later it idled fine with no choke. Ran that mix out & added all fresh 91 - problem solved (along with a short education session just what the fuel shut-off was really for!). A truly plugged up carb from sitting too long with ethanol gas in it is another story - it is either dis-assemble and clean or replace the carb - no "Mechanic-in-the-Can" juice is going to fix that. Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
can whlvr 991 #14 Posted July 17, 2014 are you sure you are getting fuel to the carb,id pull the fuel line off the carb and crank her till you see fuel pumping out the line,could be vapour lock,or stuck float Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
neil 2,398 #15 Posted July 17, 2014 It may be worth checking the fuel tap on the tank . Sometimes the vibration. Of the engine running can wind the tap shut ,stopping the gas getting into the fuel line. This happened to me once . I was doing a show with my GT14 & was about to drive into the show arena when the tractor suddenly died , I feared the problem was serious & ended up being towed around the show arena. I got the tractor home a was too scared to deal with fixing the problem in fear that the problem was terminal. I built up the courage to look into the problem 8 months later , I stripped the carb, changed spark plug ,changed fuel took head off to check valves ,nothing. Then I checked the fuel line , no fuel was getting through so checked the fuel tap . Opened fuel tap , turned engine over , vroom . Found the problem . I hope yours is something as simple as this Good luck 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Machria 77 #16 Posted July 24, 2014 are you sure you are getting fuel to the carb,id pull the fuel line off the carb and crank her till you see fuel pumping out the line,could be vapour lock,or stuck float Thanks for all the suggestions guys! I'm not 100% sure, but I think "can whlvr" got it. I was getting fuel out of tank, I was getting fuel thru the little inline fuel filter, I was getting what looked like a good spark. But it would not start at all. So I took the fuel line off the carb after the fuel pump, nothing. So I removed the front of tractor, fuel tank, heat shield (much easier than I anticipated), and then removed the fuel pump. I took the pump apart, cleaned it, tested it by flipping the littler "thingy" to make it pump while holding my finger over input fuel line. I felt a bit of suction, which meant it was working. I then blew compressed air into the carb via the fuel line. Re-installed pump, connected up the fuel tank and cranked it over. It started right up and is running like a champ. Weeeee haaaaaw! Took 10 minutes to put all back together and now I understand the whole thing a bit better. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stigian 1,234 #17 Posted July 24, 2014 Do I have to remove the front end (large cast piece headlights are in) and fuel tank to remove the carb? As Bitten has mentioned it can be done after removing the heat shield, but it is a bit tight.. Don't forget to put the heat shield back or you will end up with a melted gas tank! It may be worth checking the fuel tap on the tank . Sometimes the vibration. Of the engine running can wind the tap shut ,stopping the gas getting into the fuel line. This happened to me once . I was doing a show with my GT14 & was about to drive into the show arena when the tractor suddenly died , I feared the problem was serious & ended up being towed around the show arena. I got the tractor home a was too scared to deal with fixing the problem in fear that the problem was terminal. I built up the courage to look into the problem 8 months later , I stripped the carb, changed spark plug ,changed fuel took head off to check valves ,nothing. Then I checked the fuel line , no fuel was getting through so checked the fuel tap . Opened fuel tap , turned engine over , vroom . Found the problem . I hope yours is something as simple as this Good luck I've had the very same "tap turning off problem" with my GT Neil Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
