Jump to content
Torino

C-175 No power

Recommended Posts

Save Old Iron

Sorry, I made a mistake.  I do have light if I jump from +battery to ground wire on lights.  If I jump from -battery to ground wire on light I do not have lights.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Torino

Lets try this one more time.  +battery to ground on lights.  Lights work.  -battery to postive on lights.  No lights.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Torino

I went ahead and replaced the neg battery cable and sanded the paint off where it bolts in.  Everything is working now.  Where are the other grounds on this tractor?  I want to inspect and clean them all.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Save Old Iron

Great work T.

 

I was holding back to see if you were going to adventure out on your own!  And all this accomplished with only a jumper wire. It can be done.

 

Use your mind's eye to imagine where the power flows when leaving the negative battery cable. Electrons have to flow thru the hoodstand metal panel down thru the chassis frame, and then out to the various circuits also connected to the frame all supported by clean metal to metal, hardware fastened connections. If you have a "shaker" engine mount isolated by rubber feet, the electrons have to flow thru a ground strap from the frame to the oil pan of the engine, up thru the engine block into the points, etc.

 

Each of these physical metal to metal connections, although not "wires", have to be conductors and must have a conductive surface with each others where they join. Loosely fitting or painted areas are only temporary and poor conductors. Rusted parts are poor or non conductive since iron oxide is non conductive When iron rusts, it "picks up"  electrons and physically becomes larger in structure - it expands. Ever wonder why a rusted panel is thicker than a non rusted panel. As these rusted parts expand, they push away from each other creating non conductive space between panels

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Save Old Iron

I promised you some pics on troubleshooting connections and my first attempt is the one below.

 

 

corrodedcurrentpaths_zps511da217.gif

 

 

 

The important take away from this pic is any area in red represents the possibility of corrosion and a bad electrical contact. A poor electrical contact that will prevent your lights, ignition, starter. etc from functioning as you expect.

 

The above pic could represent your negative battery lead connected to your hoodstand metal and then onto your frame. Corroded sheet metal, loose sheet-metal bolts, corrosion on the inside of your battery cable terminals, all represent areas of possible failure.

 

In this picture alone, 11 red areas are present, each a potential issue due to corrosion. All this is just to get a good ground connection thru the hoodstand to the frame!

Edited by Save Old Iron
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Torino

I didn't know I was flying solo.  I was wanting on you to tell me what to do. :) Usually when I ask a question I am stumped or looking for the right way to handle the problem.  I have a couple questions.  What do I set my meter to when testing the wires and how can you tell if you have a good contention or a poor one?  Also how do you test a ground to see if it is good or poor?  Also, lets say I am hooking up some extra lights and running a new ground, how can I tell if my ground is a good one or poor one?  I also need to learn the basics of electrical trouble shooting.  I am sure somewhere on a site you have this.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Torino

I am going through and cleaning connections.  Is there a better place to put the - from battery to frame.  Like maybe to the frame itself?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
oldredrider

If you need to run a ground directly to the frame, then your tractor has corrosion problems. Rust does not conduct electricity well, if at all.

That will be a temporary fix as rust need never sleeps. The original ground to the hood stand placement was used for a reason. Some dash components needed a ground to function.

Ideally, any bare metal surface of the tractor should be solid ground. That is how DC current functions.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
gwest_ca

I usually go to an engine mounting bolt for the negative cable because the starter is the single biggest load on the system. Then add another lighter gauge ground wire from the same bolt back to the chassis.

 

Garry

 

I am going through and cleaning connections.  Is there a better place to put the - from battery to frame.  Like maybe to the frame itself?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...