Graeme 7 #1 Posted June 1, 2014 Hi all, I sorry to rehash a well worn and well discussed topic, but after reading all I could I am yet to find my answer. I have a 1987 416-8 with a sloppy steering wheel. I found that where the upper shaft goes through the thin dash metal the dash is cracked. I intend to pull the steering wheel and install flanged bearing #6472 after welding the cracked dash plate back together. I feel fairly confident in pressing the wheel off the shaft. I have a 20 ton press at work and feel pretty well versed in pressing, my question lies in the roll pin that secures the steering wheel, I can only see one hole in the lower part of the steering wheel where the roll pin goes in. I am reluctant to try to drive the roll pin when I can't see anywhere for it to go. There is no hole on the opposite side of the lower part of the steering wheel for the roll pin to exit when driving it through. What am I missing? I'll attach pics in a minute. If I switch to camera my writing will disappear. Thanks all you gurus, in advance. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Graeme 7 #2 Posted June 1, 2014 Here are pics of the steering wheel pin, the opposite side, and the cracked dash. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kelly 1,028 #3 Posted June 1, 2014 (edited) You may have to cut a hole in the rubber, I have never seen one with out 2 holes, but some have just been a small hole, I like to use a roll pin punch made to go in a airhammer, 99% of them pop right out with it. Edited June 1, 2014 by Kelly 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,586 #4 Posted June 1, 2014 (edited) On more than one occassion I have used a 20-ton press to SHEAR off the roll pin in this kind of s/wheel. If you can get the s/wheel and column out of the tractor, wiggle it into your press and shear the roll pin. It'll make a floor-shaking BANG when it shears, but it gets done. Then you can just knock out the pieces of the roll pin. That roll pin is very hard and, by nature, very brittle so it will break / shear off. Edited June 1, 2014 by daveoman1966 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 36,941 #5 Posted June 1, 2014 Drill an exit hole on the other side... bet it pushes right out. Let us know how it works out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Graeme 7 #6 Posted June 1, 2014 I am correct in assuming this is a roll pin, right? Hard to tell whats in there behind all the rust. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 36,941 #7 Posted June 1, 2014 Yep, it is. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Graeme 7 #8 Posted June 2, 2014 I'll get to work on it tomorrow night, maybe the night after. I'm currently neck deep in rehabbing my 42 in RD deck, my neighbor is gracious enough to offer up his tig welding skills to repair a busted spindle, I also have a few more coats of paint to go. Not perfect, but should buy me a few years. I just got done doing axle seals and changing trans fluid for the summer heat, adjusting the brake, replacing the coil. It's a bit of work to repair someone else's neglect. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Graeme 7 #9 Posted June 3, 2014 Whew, got it! I removed the whole thing with the dash and brought it to work. I used a small bearing seperator under the wheel to ensure pressure on the metal interior of the wheel and not the rubber/plastic outer shell, I put a spacer in between to two halves of the seperator to keep it from clamping too tight and scoring the shaft, put the whole thing in the 20 ton press and, using a 9mm (I never use this socket) half inch drive with a 6" half inch extension (which is pretty well buggered from prior pressings). I was able to get the socket centered on the shaft and once about 19.5 tons of pressure was exerted, BANG!!! It let go , broke the roll pin and off popped the wheel. After putting the shaft in the glass bead cabinet I got it pretty well cleaned up, along with the inside of the steering wheel, finished surfaces up with emery cloth to ensure things slide on and off with out too much resistance. Once I get home I will reassemble the whole thing and weld in my additional support plate and mark where the new bearing will be and drill out the bolt holes for that. I intend to never have to deal with this again, but if I do, there will be plenty of never seize to alleviate headaches. Thanks for your help all. I gotta say, one of the keys to doing this job is confidence that the roll pin will break, and eventually the wheel will come off. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,586 #10 Posted June 3, 2014 WIN WIN. I bet the BANG left a spot on your shorts, huh..... And they all think I'm just a dumb-ole' bean counter. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Graeme 7 #11 Posted June 3, 2014 WIN WIN. I bet the BANG left a spot on your shorts, huh..... And they all think I'm just a dumb-ole' bean counter. Yeah, it was quite a bang, I press wheel bearings and such all the time, they never come out that mean! My ears were ringing for a few minutes, I thought I had detonated the half inch extension, but nope, it took all 19.5 tons. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
