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Similar Content
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By MSBiker
Well it looks like I'm out of luck. I have been looking for blades for my Lawn Ranger and having zero luck. I have tried Wheel Horse part numbers 7908, 7909. Toro part numbers 8777, and 53322 and no one has anything like this. I was thinking about doing a cut down, but finding right hand and left hand blades seems to be the problem.
Anyone making blades, constructing blades, got a work around, etc? My blades are usable, but that is about it.
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By cbj75
I have a 1975 D200 Wheel Horse with front mount dozer blade, package includes Wheel Horse Dump Trailer, 48" belly mower side discharge, Wheel Horse front and rear wheel weights, turning brakes, rear PTO and 3-point to 2" receiver attachment, and Brinley twin disc harrow. Rear luggage/rack carrier, All refurbished, sandblasted and painted Ford red in 2016. Lots of extra Wheel Horse parts included.
Package price $3000.00.
Bryce Johnson
102 Anglers PT
Mc Cormick SC 29835
913-638-6788
IMG_1962.HEIC IMG_1965.HEIC IMG_0279.HEIC
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By Joe Warren
Mower Spindle Components
mostly new old stock
Prices shown do not include the cost to ship.
Message me with your needs and any questions.
Thank you.
Joe
PART NUMBER(S)
DESCRIPTION
QTY. AVAILABLE
PRICE EACH
103711
NOS Spindle shaft assembly
1
39
103711 (used)
Used spindle shaft assembly
1
29
101686 or 5875
NOS Spindle shaft sub-assembly
1
49
104890
NOS Spindle shaft
1
49
104982
NOS Spindle shaft
1
44
107998 or 107446
NOS Spindle shaft
2
89
109912
NOS Spindle shaft
1
59
112673 or 109965
NOS Spindle shaft
1
59
108849
NOS Spindle shaft
1
89
102780 or 104373
NOS Spindle cups 1.0” tall
2
39
??????
NOS Spindle cups 0.9” tall
2
39
102784 or 104374
NOS Spindle cups 0.8” tall
1
39
100289
NOS Needle bearing, MFD USA Torrington
2
19
101411
NOS Ball bearing, sealed both sides, MFD China
2
29
101480 or 1515 or 5493
NOS Ball bearing, sealed both sides, MFD China
6
9
106084
NOS Ball bearing, sealed one side, MFD Japan
11
9
106085
NOS Ball bearing, open, not sealed, MFD Taiwan
16
9
106070
NOS Seal spacer
10
9
100674
NOS Spacer-pulley
1
13
107445
NOS Spacer-bearing
1
9
106069
NOS Spacer
1
9
110234
NOS Lock bolt-pulley
4
2
110242 or 908033
NOS Lock bolt-blade
11
2
915090 or 32146-20
NOS Lock nut-pulley
11
2
936028 or 32120-42 or 52-6640
NOS Snap ring
7
2
8389
spindle housing
1
39
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By PWL216
About a year ago I bought a C-121 auto with the intention of using it as my go-to mower. Shortly thereafter I got a great deal on a low hour 314-8. It ran perfect and had several attachments - it became my new go-to mower. So, I decided to repurpose the 121 to be a front end loader. After purchasing the build plans from P.F Engineering (which are excellent), I realized I couldn’t build it for less than $2k in material. I decided to look for a used one and found a Thompson TC10 local to me, mounted on an “end of life” 1077, for $1,000. The loader swap itself was pretty straight forward. The only modifications needed were drilling a couple of mounting holes in the tractor frame, grinding away a little of the loader top frame so the hood opened/closed and welding in a new hydraulic pump mount. I have a few things to button up still and the bucket itself needs attention but it’s fully functional. I also bought a pair of clamp-on pallet forks.
I also did a “refresh” of the 121. The total project cost is shown below. Roughly $2,300, with just the FEL itself being around $1,300.
Tractor
C-121 Auto $500
Solid engine mounts $50
Front End Loader
Johnson 10TC $1,000
Hydraulic fluid $35
Spare hydraulic hose $40
Ignition
Battery $35
Battery cables $20
Points & Condenser $20
Fuel
Carb & Gasket $65
Electric fuel pump $60 (later removed)
Air filter $10
Fuel filter $15
Fuel line $10
Spark plug $5
Decals and Paint
Decals $115
Paint $30
Lights
Headlight Lens $45
LED Headlights $25
Rear lights $25
Misc $200
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By the jeep driver
My daughter was using the Wheel Horse rider to mow, I was push mowing. She drives over to me and says, "Dad, the blades aren't turning." I look at the mower, she's got the blades engaged (lever forward) but nothing is moving. I disengage the blades, and re-engage... nothing. No movement from the belt nor clutch. Then I notice the smell, and look closer, the belt is so hot is melting on the clutch. Or rather, the clutch is so hot it's melting the belt. Melting occurred.
While the clutch is disengaged, I can spin the clutch freely; and whilst it's engaged, it won't move.
So, what did I do now? Peter told me to lube that needle bearing, but I couldn't find a write up/how to anywhere, so I was putting it off until after the leaves were done falling in the Fall. I haven't taken anything off yet, other than the pins that hold the pinion and such, and the little brake pad. I see there are two snap rings, assume they come off, and then the assembly slides out as a whole?
Some pictures of the clutch, can anyone tell if it's usable from them?
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