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1977.d-160

'77 D160 Stalls & won't restart after using Tiller. Restarts hours later

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Hi again all,

 

I was using my D160 to till some hard packed earth (first till) and it was working OK, not great, just OK.  First pass, was about an inch and a half, two inches at max.  The tiller would work, then stall and I'd have to lift the hydro to get it spinning again.  I did this a few times then the engine stalled and the starter would not strike.  The lights still worked and I could hear the elec PTO clutch 'click' when I threw the switch on/off.  I thought maybe I smoked the ignition switch, but I went out the next day and it fired right up.  I tried tilling a little more and same thing happened.

 

What am I doing wrong?  Is there a thermal protection ckt or something that's causing this?  How can I till w/o overloading it?

 

I've read in my 520H manual that you need to run the engine at full throttle otherwise you risk damaging the trans.  I assume that's true for the D160 as well?  When tilling at full throttle the tiller is really crankin'.  So ideally I could run the engine at about 1/2-2/3 throttle in order to slow down the tiller.

 

Looking forward to the group's thoughts, feedback, opinions, advice so that I can till my plot!

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Jeff

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the tiller stalling is most likely the belt slipping

 

 

eric j

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What eric said check your PTO belt driving teh rear PTO shaft.  My D200 Fel would stop some timed teh PTO belt in that case drives the hydro pump for the FEL and it would slip.  Heavy use heats things up and slippage gets worse.  As you have an electric PTO it should not need adjustment as the manual one I have requires.  Watch the PTO when things do not work there is a chance your PTO is worn out ...but I am betting on th belt.

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The electric clutch on the d160's do need readjusting every once in awhile make sure the points gasket isn't bad and leaking oil on it as that will cause the belt or pto to slip. As for the no start the coil may be going bad as it heats up the windings break contact as it cools it makes contact.

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After I cleaned the carburetor on my D-160 and set the needles where they should be all my troubles like you are describing went away. If that has not been done it should be done in order to get a clean frame of reference, otherwise you could wind up chasing your tail like I was.  You will need gaskets and a carburetor kit.  Be very careful when wrenching on an aluminum block.  Follow the book and use a torque wrench.  Only use pure gas if you can get it.

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If you do find that the P.T.O. belt needs adjusted remember to also loosen the bolts on the mid-mount bearing bracket before making the adjustment on the front mount. This prevents putting the shaft in a bind at the mid-mount point and eventually causing the mid-mount bracket to brake. Mark.

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Thanks guys.  I rebuilt the carb w/ the kit+gaskets over the Winter due to issue w/ float valve tip.  That's all good to go now.

 

Makes sense that the belt is slipping, hence stopping from spinning.  I'll see if I can adjust it.

 

I get that a failing coil would cut out when hot, but the starter won't engage when it happens.  If the coil were failing wouldn't it still turn-over?  Maybe not.  It's as if the ignition switch itself is overheating??  When it starts it will stay running/driving, just not when tilling.

 

Good tip on the mid-mount!

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Hi folks,

 

I replaced the PTO belt and that seems OK (using the mower deck).

 

Ignition coil tested at 5.1 Ohms on the primary when warm which is slightly high so I replaced it.  With fingers crossed she fired up, but it didn't fix the stalling issue when warmed up.

 

It runs fine for about 15 minutes then stalls and will not start again until it's cooled down.  

 

My next guess is points & condenser...  Any other advice?

 

Thanks

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Its most likely the coil as it heats up the wires separate and as it cools down the come in close enough to make contact

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Jeff,

If I read your report correctly. This engine runs fine for 15 minutes, then stops and then will not start due to the starter not turning.

If this is true, this is not a fuel or ignition problem. The tiller stopping is a separate problem that has to be a slipping belt or PTO as stated above.

You need to find out why the starter is not working.

With the switch in the start position, check for 12VDC at the starter and work back through the circuit till you find the loss of power.

Could be solenoid, loose fuses, bad fuse blocks, loose or corroded connections, a bad wire, PTO. safety switch.

My guess is there is a bad electrical connection somewere in the starter circuit that opens due to heat or vibration and closes with time or cool. down.

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Hi all - thanks for the additional feedback.

 

Both of my PTO issues (belt slipping & u-joint) have been resolved.  I replaced the belt and it works fine w/ the mower deck; I have yet to try the tiller since I just fixed the ujoint last night.

 

Back in the Spring when I had my carb/needle valve issue I had cleaned the fuel pump (had a fair amount of gunk in it).  It seemed to pump fine afterwards.

 

After about 15-20 minutes the engine sputters then stalls, starter cranks OK, but it will not start.  I had assumed an electrical issue (due to heat) so I had replaced the ign coil & plug wires.  Now I'm thinking it might be due to faulty fuel cap with vacuum pressure in the fuel tank.  I was hoping to test it last night w/ the fuel cap loose, but didn't get home until later in the evening and didn't want to annoy the neighbors.  I'll try that this weekend.

 

Thanks again for all your responses.

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OK ...maybe I misread the posts..I thought It was not cranking. Fuel supply is easy to check..Just hand feed it with starter fluid direct into the carb. If it runs , you have a fuel problem. Ignition is also easy to check...Just pull the plug, ground it securely with clips and look for spark.

That's all you need ,Fuel and fire at the plug and it will run.. If it has any compression at all.

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