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nyquil junkie

I need to idiot proof this shifter

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Am I looking at this right, it seems like it will automatically drop in place and set the park brake every time you floor the clutch pedal.

That would be great, actually. I forget to do little things like..... setting parking brakes.

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Yep, it's the little things that make all the difference...

           :)

Edited by AMC RULES

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Yep, depress the clutch/brake pedal and push the lever forward to engage the stepped end of the lever on the brake band.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

Edited by Fun Engineer

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Am I looking at this right, it seems like it will automatically drop in place and set the park brake every time you floor the clutch pedal.

That would be great, actually. I forget to do little things like..... setting parking brakes.

 

It should not automatically SET.

 

After you have manually set it, hit the brake/clutch again and the spring will automatically UNSET it when you return to the tractor.

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Yes...as these guys are saying above...the spring will keep the lever from setting automatically and it will keep the clutch pedal pushed forward when the lever is in the lock position.  Thanks for the part number Brian...that should be the same number for Nyquil's horse also.  :)

 

BTW...this is an avartar that I was going to use a couple of years ago.  :)

 

stevemartin.jpg

Edited by stevasaurus

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I would not pay more then a couple bucks for it.  I got 2 of them for nothing a few years ago.  I'll see if I can snag a couple this weekend...send you one if I do.  :)

Edited by stevasaurus
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I would not pay more then a couple bucks for it.  I got 2 of them for nothing a few years ago.  I'll see if I can snag a couple this weekend...send you one if I do.  :)

 

Steve has to be the poster child for this forum. What a nice place to be. :)

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Just a quick note..  the part for sale in the eBay ad is mis-labeled..  that part is the fender/seat lock,not the parking brake!

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I have been thinking about this thing, and it sort of worries me that it automatically kicks off when you hit the clutch/brake pedal.

 

I would prefer it to be LOCKED until I choose to manually unlock it.

 

Now, the tractor has a manual lift for the plow (or deck I imagine depending on what you have bolted to it) and the plow lift mechanism also is connected by a cable to the rear slot receiver to lift that up and down.

 

I am thinking, perhaps with a little re routing of the rear lift cable, or replacing it with a new cable and whatever end it needs to work, it can be used as a manual locking cluch/brake lock.

 

When you pull the lift arm back, to its locked position that pulls the cable forward to lift the slot reciever UP.

 

I think it could be a simple matter of moving the cable to the point where this factory park brake connects on the linkage, and when the lift arm is forward, the cable will be slack and not effect the brake/clutching.  But when it is pulled back and locked into the blade up/reciever up position, it should if attached right (and fine adjusted with the blade hight screw) keep the brake tightly on and the clutch/belts disengauged.

 

This way there is no chance the pedal can be bumped and the park brake accidently kicked off. Like a tree branch fallingon it or an idiot like me kicking it or something.

 

Getting the cable snaked where I need it to go should be the only real trick, short of that it just needs connected to the linkage.

 

If I need the dirt blade, I can easily detach the cable at one end ot the other. I rarely use the blade now and if I need to, it would be an easy thing to disconect the cable from some point and go right ahead and use it as a lift.

 

There are places in the woods I will need this thing securely and idiot proofly locked and unable to be "bumped" into a free rolling idiot killer.

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WHY DO YOU THINK YOU HAVE TO BE ABLE TO GET OFF THE HORSE WHILE IT IS RUNNING??? :bow-blue:

 

I am done being a part of this.  :eusa-think:  and I had a brake lever lined up for you.

Edited by stevasaurus
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Bad shoulders, I can be yanking the rope 100 times a day.

I thought you fellas loved modifying these little tractors...... lol

Its just an idea steve chill out man....

Sometimes you just hop off for a few seconds and right back on while working, if I can easily lock the brake and the clutch in, shutting it off all the time isn't really necessary.

You don't shut off a diesel tractor every time you come to a stop they idle all day long.

I think my redesign of the lift mechanism will be a super safe and effective park brake / clutch release.

Edited by nyquil junkie

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Good luck with your project , IMO your over thinking the set up, :eusa-think: ...   but your tractor & your chain rash have fun with it  :handgestures-thumbupright:

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You are over thinking it (and i'm an engineer, i overthink things for a living). The parking brake has worked on these tractors for 40 years.

 

Buy a tractor with electric start and call it a day. You will probably end up saving time and a life at some point in the future. I'm with Steve, Darwin has an award for a reason.

 

As an aside, these engines are NOT designed to be idled for long periods of time. Cooling and oil lubrication requirements.

Edited by bmsgaffer
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Idling a long time is a relative term. I dont consider A few minutes or so "a long time".  If whatever I'm doing takes more than a few min of course I shut it off to save gas and kill the noise.

 

The reason for my overthinking is the terain in some places where I'm going to be using the thing. Certainly, for most of the barnyard work, the factory P-brake is sufficient.  For other places an added measure of safety is a good thing to consider, more to keep the thing from drifting while OFF if the shifter gets bumped into neutral.

 

In any event, my overthinking things is a normal part of working out a problem, simply because you overthink a thing doesnt mean you actually go there in practice. It is part of the engineering process as you probably well know.

 

You overthink something and back off and look at it. More often than not the K.I.S.S. principle wins out.

 

I am still going to install the factory brake, if I can get one. Depending on how it performs (it may be more than enough I dont know) I may leave it be and surrender to the designers wisdom.

 

And I might add a little extra measure to amp up the safety factor.

 

I am used to having to redesign every boneheaded machine I get ahold of that has a design flaw.....Ive been injured enough over the years to think safety first on almost everything.

 

But, this machine's requirements for use in this job is it must be able to be locked in place, clutch relesed, and if possible brakes tightly locked.

will the factory thing do that? Probably! The issue I have with the thing (actually the only thing really) is it is an auto release when you hit the clutch brake pedal....this has a possibility to be a problem.....in some areas.

 

So I do need the factory part. The steel looks a little thin for the job but, since I have never seen one or seen one in action I have to assume it is made for the profit margin fo the manufacture and not really for the hard use it is going to get. But that is the starting point to making this tractor safe again.

 

Just because my mind wanders down Overthiking Lane doesnt mean I actually go there. As an engineer you understand the process of rethinking everything 1001 ways but always making sure you dont create a Goldberg device out of the darn thing.

 

I like the Wheelhorse design for its simplicity and effectivness in that simplicity.  I despise over designed machines.  It often takes overthining a thing to grasp how wonderfully simple it is to begin with.

 

This parking brake MAY be perfect. As I said, since I have never had one or used one I automatically doubt it simply because mass produced stuff like garden tractors are mostly always far from, "well designed".

 

And I really dont wanna get run over again, so that desire to avoid repeating the accident makes me redesign it in my head a bunch of different ways.

 

But the factory part.... probably more than adiquate.  Once I install one I will know!

 

I'll ether buy one here or ebay or fabricate one.

Redesigning the brake system is an idea, not a plan to actually remake the brake system.

:techie-eureka:

Edited by nyquil junkie
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how about someting like this to keep the pedal down?

 

a20791c13adc81304520a9_s.jpg

 

stand on the clutch pedal, push it down and let go, to undo it press the pedal and pul it up, cant be kicked off

 

 

 

Koen

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Nyquil...I will have the piece you need Saturday.  Send me a PM with your address and I will send it to you.  If this works for you...that would be really cool.  Listen...the nice thing about this forum...you can throw ideas out there and not really get attacked...and get back excellent feedback and advise.  I am not going to apologize for being concerned about safety...yours, mine or anyone else.  I was a lineman/cable splicer with the phone company for 35 years...it is the guy with 25 or more years that cuts a corner and gets hurt or worse.  Hopefully, that brake piece will work for you...and I will help you to that end.  :)

 

Maybe you can go the Big Show in June and we can play Top This with our scars.  That could be interesting and a lot of fun.  :orcs-cheers:

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Sweet.... I got lotsa scars. LOL

 

Plowerpower, a pedal lock was in my mind too. But the factory Pbrake does that back on the linkage.

I'll go with steves part and that really should work 99% of the time.

 

Once we widen and level all these cow paths through the woods, driving them with the tractor or DR wagons will be a lot safer and easier.

Thanks steve!

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I recommend installing spring loaded seat mount with mircroswitch.  Interlock the ignition so the tractor can't run if you're not in the seat.  That's how the new tractors are done.  You can fashion a seat and spring assembly from steel angle and a spring.  An injury from the tractor could last your lifetime. 

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Scott...I've got a parking brake handle for you.  Actually, I found 3...I am going to check them out on my 857 tomorrow.  They are all a little different, but I think they will all work.  Let know tomorrow...mail Monday  :)

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2013_0429b0001_zps67a1269e.jpg

 

Notice the notches at the bottom.  2 of them have about 6 adjustment notches (one of those has a twist in the handle)...the 3rd one has 4 notches.  They will all work, but I am thinking you may be better off with the one without the twist and 6 notches.  It might mean a little more adjustment for you.  Let me know if that one is the one you want...your choice.  :)

 

Make sure you refer to the drawing in post #14 one page 1 that pfrederi posted.  I did not have enough room to take out part 48 from part 41.  One option is to tap out the roll pin #42 from #41.  I was thinking it might be easier to take off the seat and sheet metal from the trans to make enough room for that knuckle to clear.  Too much for me to mess with today.  Check it out.  I need to take all that off on mine in the near future (I have an axle seal leaking), so I am going to wait until then to tackle it.  Use the pictures that Craig and Dave posted also...the part goes on the backside of that lever.  I'll mail the one you want tomorrow morning...or the one I said if I do not hear from you.  No charge for the part Scott, it just cost me a little homemade wine.  (Thanks Racinfool40)  :)

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Whichever one you think is better will be fine. The four notch seems like it would have better bite when its set.

Thanks steve!

 

I think mine just has a cotter pin to keep it together. I have to check.

Edited by nyquil junkie

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