bigbore1934 3 #1 Posted April 14, 2014 Hello,I am new here,I own a 1975 B-80 with a Kohler k-181. Last year the rod bolts came loose ,so it was time for a rebuld!I just picked up the block and crank at the machine shop saturday,so it isn't put together yet,but I would like to know a sure-fire way to properly break it in. The owner of the machine shop only recomended running non-detergent oil in it while breaking it in,but no other details. I will hopefully have it assembled next weekend,I would like to mow with it this summer,my "loaner" MTD won't and can't do what my old Wheel Horse can. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oldredrider 2,547 #2 Posted April 14, 2014 Put it back together just like the Kohler manual instructs. Use SAE 30 oil and run it like a used motor. Change the oil after 4 hours and you should be good to go. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fordiesel69 207 #3 Posted April 14, 2014 I have my beleifs, others have theirs. What I have noticed is that the oil gets VERY metallic during break in. You can tell by the grey color on the paper towel. Be prepared to drain and refill about 2-4 times before resuming your 25 hrs service interval. If you use non detergent, that is fine, but after the break in, you will need to remove the oil pan and scrub the metal off the bottom. Preferably in a parts washer, then with a magnet. If you use detergent oil, it will stay in suspension and drain out when hot. Non detergent oils are typically of a lower quality formulation overall. Detergent oils that are for use in air cooled engines are typically formulated better. Shell makes a SAE 30 for diesels. It will work well with the kohler K series / magnums. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fordiesel69 207 #4 Posted April 14, 2014 Another thing to remember is to not "baby" the engine. It needs to be worked, but not over worked. Which means after working it hard for a certain time, neutral it, and remove the PTO power, and let the engine run at a mid to high throttle. This will pass air over the cylinder and cool it. Repeat over the break in. There was once a very awesome article that explained a detailed break in of a big diesel on a dynamometer. I think it was cummins or Detroit. They would simulate a full engine load for a period, then use the dyno to coast the engine down a long hill. They repeated it over and over. This simulation was ideal, and the after break in teardown showed a fantastic pattern on all the parts involved. I no longer have this article, it was 2001. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oldredrider 2,547 #5 Posted April 15, 2014 The Shell Rotella SAE 30 for diesel engines is a great detergent oil, not just for break-in but year round use. I use it in all my Kohler engines (newly rebuilt or older) and it seems to make them run cooler and smoother. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shorts 182 #6 Posted April 15, 2014 Use the breakin schedule in the Kohler service manual, they spend lots of money on research and development and they should know more about these engines than anyone of us RS members. It's probably going to tell you to start the engine, check the timing and run it at 3600rpm no load for 2 hours while checking for leaks, shut down and check the oil and repeat for 2 more hours and then change the oil and consider it ready to work Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bigbore1934 3 #7 Posted April 15, 2014 Thanks guys! I normally run 30w Quaker State oil (detergent)I may just stick to that for the break-in,I have used it for years and have no complaints. I wounder if the ND oil helps sink the fine metal to the bottom of the pan to keep it out of the way? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 14,888 #8 Posted April 15, 2014 The idea behind detergent/non-detergent is simple. Non-detergent oil was designed for engines without filters. The idea was to not suspend dirt and metal in the oil, but to allow it to settle to the bottom of the pan. Detergent oils were designed to suspend the dirt and other stuff in the oil so that it could be removed when it passed through the oil filter. Since the Kohler K-series have no filter, non-detergent oil was recommended in the beginning. However, if you read the revised and updated manuals, they now call for detergent oil. Reason? Today's detergent oils are made better, have more additives, and besides, non-detergent oil is hard to find in some areas. Having said that, my machine shop guy (whom I respect his opinion on anything to do with engines) says that he still feels that straight 30W non-detergent oil is better in Kohler's than anything else. He has put them on the dynomometer and found a slight increase in performance over the 10W30 and 10W40 oils, and less wear when changed at proper intervals. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shorts 182 #9 Posted April 15, 2014 When these engines were originally developed detergent, and multi weight oils were either nonexistent or cutting edge technology and very expensive and didn't have the lubrication and anti wear properties that were deemed necessary for the desired engine life. The most important part of the breakin is to change the oil immediately after running and letting it drain completely to get out the wear in material out of the engine before putting it into service Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oaktown1987 82 #10 Posted April 19, 2014 I'm think I'm going to run amsoil high zinc 10/30 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bigbore1934 3 #11 Posted May 12, 2014 https://flic.kr/p/nA6LPw https://flic.kr/p/niAVLY Got my "Vheel Horse" broke in,changed the oil,at 5 hours,next weekend (10 hours of use)I will change it again. THANKS TO ALL WHO REPLIED!!!!!!! It runs great,and I couldn't be any happier with it!Glad to get it back to work! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
