Onan #BF-MS/2929 E float replacement - Rebuild parts?

[the_nite_owl 15]

I have a 16HP Onan on a D-160.  The original float is swollen and sticks.  I found a replacement bronze float on eBay but from what I read the bronze float requires a spring that does not appear to come with the float and the original float did not use a spring.

Any ideas on what will work for this carb?

 

The original engine busted the rod in one cylinder completely destroying the piston and gouging the cylinder.  I would like to rebuild but have been unable to find pistons and rings for the engine.  Do I keep working to restore this engine or give up and try and find some other horizontal shaft engine to use? 

Thanks.

Trent

[bmsgaffer 2,043]

I unfortunately cant help on the carb front, but as far as the onan goes I would say lost cause.

 

Rebuilds are doable but rather expensive and it sounds like you might have one unrepairable cylinder. If you put in a want ad in the Wanted section you might come up with an Onan. I know someone on here a while back had a P216 for sale.

 

Also might be a good candidate for a repower with a different brand. It will require a little work, i have never seen one done in a D series before, but I think a twin Honda or Kohler would look good in there if it fits.

Although, to that point, you could probably acquire one or two more D-160's as a parts tractors for the price of a repower...

[the_nite_owl 15]

I unfortunately cant help on the carb front, but as far as the onan goes I would say lost cause.

 

Rebuilds are doable but rather expensive and it sounds like you might have one unrepairable cylinder. If you put in a want ad in the Wanted section you might come up with an Onan. I know someone on here a while back had a P216 for sale.

 

Also might be a good candidate for a repower with a different brand. It will require a little work, i have never seen one done in a D series before, but I think a twin Honda or Kohler would look good in there if it fits.

Although, to that point, you could probably acquire one or two more D-160's as a parts tractors for the price of a repower...

 

I actually have a spare Onan that came from a Sears tractor.  Different model engine but only major difference is that it does not have an integrated oil filter and is an ugly green color.  It also has fixed pulleys rather than the electric pulley but I can work around that.

This second engine has the same issue with the float and is the one I have installed and mostly running right now.  It is a bit more worn and smokes a little so I was hoping to eventually rebuild the original engine and put it back in.  I have not pulled it apart other than taking off the head and finding the top of the piston laying on its side so I do not know if there is more severe damage inside yet but the gouging in the cylinder does not appear to be too bad and I could hone it out .010 - .020 and put in new pistons and rings if I can find them.  I am hoping that the Sears version of the engine will only need rings but have not checked the cylinders for wear yet.

 

The way this tractor is setup it should be pretty easy to fit a different model horizontal shaft engine even of a larger size if I can find one but they seem to be pretty darn expensive and not sure I can throw that much more money into this right now.  I got the tractor because I have a serious need to use the bucket loader for a few big projects coming up.  I think I can get this engine running with the right float and spring.  I have seen the recommendations to upgrade to the bronze float but no reference to the part number for the spring.  I can probably make something up myself to work but it would help if I had some idea of how much pressure the spring should be applying.

 

I could try trimming the edges of the original floats until they no longer stick but they are coated with something to prevent them from absorbing the fuel and I would not know what to re-coat with after trimming the edges.

 

Out my way these tractors run a bit expensive so getting parts tractors is pretty costly.  In the long run I probably am better off doing a re-power but there are so few horizontal shaft engines to choose from and they get pricey.

Thanks.

Trent

[Desko 552]

You can bore the 3 1/8 bore out to 3 1/4 say onan because they no longer make pistons for the bf-ms engines with the 3 1/8 bore which you engine has some of the d-160 had b43m onans with 3 1/4 pistons. As for the float you don't need the spring IMHO

[the_nite_owl 15]

Thanks for the info Desko.

I did put the float into the carb without a spring and it seems to be running fine.

 

Would any other components need to be changed due to the change in piston size if I went up to 3 1/4?  Does the block really allow for that much oversizing?

I still have to tear down the engine to see if there is any other significant damage.  I do not know what caused the rod to break in the first place and hope there is no damage on the crank. 

I will need new connecting rods so I will have to find out if the ones for my engine will connect to the B93M pistons or the B93M rods will connect to my crank.

 

Would you know a full number for a B93M engine I can use to lookup part numbers for the pistons and rings?  I have been searching but have not found anything matching yet.

Thanks again.

Trent

[Desko 552]

Onan says you can go that far over on that motor go to onanparts.com you can find all you need there the rods from a 16 hp onan will work but cranks are not the same between b and p series as goes for the 16 hp and 18-20 hp.

onan compatible:

16hp and 18hp use the same camshaft, and carburetors.

18-20hp use the same crankshaft and rods

20hp uses a different camshaft from the two and a different carburetor than the two.

All other parts are the same or interchangeable in B series

P series use a different flywheel and carburetor. Other than that all parts will interchange

[the_nite_owl 15]

Great information.  I have hope again of getting this engine rebuilt.  At least I do if after I tear it down I do not find anything else with major damage.

The rod broke right up at the piston and the piston just disintegrated so that when I pulled the head I found only the top disc of the piston laying on it's side in the cylinder.  All the rest must be down in the oil pan.  The engine was still running when this happened, it just lost power and started blowing smoke before I shut it off. 

I do not yet know what caused the rod to break.  In other engines I have seen it happen from oil starvation until the rod starts melting itself down on the crank through friction.  Hopefully no serious damage was done and I can rebuild.  I would much rather have the original engine back in the tractor with an oil filter.  The spare engine was nearly identical but no place for a filter on the block.

 

Thanks again.

Trent