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jdmitchjr@6dlam.com

D-180 steering column

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jdmitchjr@6dlam.com

Weather and other house repairs requiring more immediate attention have abated so I got back to work on the newly acquired D-180.

 

As previously reported, the steering has a fair amount of slop so I was planning to do the rebuild.  I ordered and received the Ross rebuild kit and also found the "upgrade" parts.

 

Following the advice and experience of many others who posted in the forum, I managed to pull the steering wheel off without too much difficulty.  Thanks to the folks who posted as the cumulative experience and tool/jig recommendations saved a fair amount of time.

 

I then unbolted the bracket from the frame rail (after clearing away about an inch of built up guck over the nuts).

 

The last thing seemingly holding the column in place is the ball joint to the lever.  My pickle fork is too big for this joint and tapping on the stud (with a sacrificial nut not the castle nut in place) does not seem to budge it. 

 

During the week I will look for a smaller opening pickle fork but in the meantime, any suggestions on how to separate the ball joint stud from the lever?

 

Also, the bearing or bushing at the top of the column has a fair amount of slop.  Has anyone sized out and sourced that part?

 

Thanks for any help or suggestions.

 

Best regards,

 

John

 

 

 

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Shuboxlover

I believe....if memory serves me correctly when I took mine apart that you can use a wrench (1/2" I believe) between the rod and where the tie rod end goes through the hole to stop it from spinning.  The you can unscrew the nut.

 

Maybe I'm wrong....IDK :eusa-think:

Edited by Shuboxlover

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jdmitchjr@6dlam.com

Thanks.

 

The castle nut came off okay so it is not a matter of keeping the stud from turning. 

 

The stud for the ball joint is stuck in the lever.  Normally a pickle fork would be used to force the parts apart but my pickle fork is too big. 

 

Best regards,

 

John

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Shuboxlover

Ahhhh...I See.....When I have a stubborn one, I tap on either the tie rod, or the piece it goes through and it usually pops out without too much trouble, or put the nut back on so the threads are covered and the tap on it that way too.  Make sure you don't beat on it and deform the tie rod.

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pacer

Puzzling why the drag link wont come off, The links have always fallen off for me when the nut is removed??

 

Well at least I can point you in the direction to correct that sloppy plastic shaft bushing, use one of these shoulder bearings, I think? its a 3/4 x 1 1/2", measure your tube and check - I do know the shaft is 3/4". These are/were used in a lot of our horses for the front wheel bearings.

mDXPIC5d0kjMBZHvNQ2wk8Q.jpg

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jdmitchjr@6dlam.com

Thanks.

 

This tractor is a mix of things that have been previously worked on and now come apart easily and things that have never been apart and test patience, skill, and knuckles. 

 

I think the tool to use is called a tie rod separator and my local autozone lends them out, so I will give that a try.  Steady screw pressure should be better than banging.

 

With respect to the bearing, thanks.  The shaft is definitely 3/4" and the column tube appears to be 1.5".  I am going to hold off popping the plastic bearing until I am sure I can get the column out.  I was thinking of a shoulder bearing as you suggested and showed, but was not sure if a standard size would fit. 

 

I also need the bushing that goes between the column and the dash cut out.  The column od appears to be standard but the dash hole is a bit less than 2".  A previous owner had sheet metal screwed a steel pipe flange that he cut in half first -- ugly and not fully functional.  I might just do a split shaft collar.  Anyone have any better idea?

 

Thanks.

 

Best regards.

 

John

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Shuboxlover

I have the "bushing" or grommet you need....send me a PM if you're interested.

 

2011-04-14_14-30-18_912.jpg

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jdmitchjr@6dlam.com

I managed to separate the drag link from the lever using a wheel puller with a backing plate I made up. 

 

And I found all the bracket bolts and, with the greatest use of socket extensions of various lengths and clever wrench placements, managed to free the column and bracket assembly.

 

Now the trick is to get it out.  The mid lift components and the frame for the loader are making it seem impossible.  Any suggestions?

 

I think the WH engineers forgot that the steering box might need to be serviced....

 

Thanks.

 

Best regards,

 

John

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pfrederi

Anytime I have to do anything to my D200 the first step seems to be removing the loader frame. (and usually the rear PTO shaft :-(  )  I have had the steering gear out and it wasn't the easiest project in the world but i am reasonably sure the loader frame was off at the time.

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jdmitchjr@6dlam.com

Thanks Paul.

 

So maybe this is a stupid question, but I was trying to take the column out with the supporting brackets.  Should I have instead figured out how to get a wrench or socket on the three bolts that hold the steering column to the brackets?

 

And has anyone managed to get the column out from the top with the right side panel removed and some flex to the dash?  If yes, with or without the brackets?

 

Time to use the loader is fast approaching and the number of pieces off the tractor is growing.  Maybe cutting an access panel in the lower side so as to be able to get a wrench or socket on three bolts that hold the steering box on to the brackets.

 

Thanks.

 

Best regards,

 

John

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pacer

John, I managed to get mine out from the top with the bracket attached, see this post  ---

 

 

I did have to pretty much totally remove everything around and under the dash, which as it turned out - in my case - wasnt necessary, but with you having the FEL is probably easier than pulling it to come out the top. I had nothing under mine to interfere with coming out the bottom. If there is the PTO shaft on the tractor it wont come out the bottom either

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jdmitchjr@6dlam.com

So I finally had some time this evening and managed to get the steering column and steering box out.

 

I had originally removed the bolts from the brackets but it was proving to be a puzzle I could  not figure out going down or going up.

 

But with the brackets dismounted, the assembly lowered enough and could be turned enough that I could get a wrench on the three bolts to the Ross box which enabled me to lower the column out the bottom.

 

Found a few missing ball bearings, one cup was in pieces, and there was some stiff grease in the box. The stud was actually in pretty good shape.  There were some scarring to the worm gear, perhaps from the loose cup parts, but not too bad.  The shaft mid section between the worm gear and the splines had more rust and corrosion than I expected. 

 

I cleaned and wire wheeled all the parts, test fit the new parts, and painted the shaft mid section, the column, and the lever with rusty metal primer. 

 

I need to find a bearing for the top of the column and a sealed thrust bearing for the lever stud and then I should be able to complete the reassembly and then repuzzle the column and box back in. 

 

B/R

 

John

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jdmitchjr@6dlam.com

Just a quick update on what I found when I cleaned the parts. All the ball bearings where there but not where they belonged. Half were smaller than the others - very odd. The stud I ordered turned out to be the wrong size. I guess that happens when trying to cross to other brand part numbers. Luckily the old stud is okay with a little dressing. The busted cup was definitely part of the slop problem. The upper bearing cup is stuck, probably rusted in place. But the bearing surface cleaned up nice and the cup is solid so it should be okay. Reassembly tomorrow night and then the fun of getting it back in. The red craftsman gt5000 did the dethatch, vac, and fertilizing duty today. Photos of the rebuild to follow.

B/R

John

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jdmitchjr@6dlam.com

Sorry to be off line for so long and for not finishing up this thread.  I got interrupted by a wrecked Jeep that had to be made road worthy and then a partial engine rebuild on the replacement Jeep, in addition to the other work 'round the house and grounds.

 

in any event, the column and steering box rebuild went pretty well.  The only issues were the wrong size stud or finger noted above and I did not end up doing the thrust bearing on the pivot.  Reinstallation went fairly well without any problems -- just some contortions to get to the nuts and bolts. 

 

The supply of the rubber dash grommet from a member was a great final detail. 

 

Photos of the work in progress.  I did not take any of the re-installation or even the finished job.

 

The steering is much improved but I think I was too conservative on how much to tighten the follower finger or stud into the worm gear.  I am going to tighten that up.

 

Next step is to replace the spindle thrust bearings. 

 

Thanks to all the folks who provided comments in support and especially to those who posted their own experience and photos.  All were helpful.

 

B/R

 

John

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RDPJR

I have a D180 with the typical steering slop issue. Would anyone know where and what parts I need to rebuild the Ross steering? I looked through the site but could not find any info. Thanks 

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jdmitchjr@6dlam.com

I saw your post but am away from where I have the information on the parts.  When I get home this weekend I will respond more fully.

For now....

The bearing at the top of the column cam from McMaster & Carr and was jb welded in place.

The bearings in the box were a matching part number from another tractor company -- I got the information from another great thread on rebuilding the column.

The following pin that came with the parts was not the right size so I ended up cleaning up the out of round pin on the grinder being careful not to let it get too hot and soften the part.

The dash grommet came from a very nice Red Square member who had at least one extra at the right time for me.

Otherwise the big problem is getting the assembly out of the tractor to work on. 

I will see if I can find the other link and get that information to you.  Otherwise look for another post on Sunday.

Regards

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jdmitchjr@6dlam.com

Attached is the information I found on the site to get the parts.

Note that the following pin was the wrong size so I reground the original. 

Also, I found that the bearings on the wheel spindles were shot and cleaning the spindles, removing the remainder of the disintegrated bearings, re-greasing, and installing new bearings (from McMaster & Carr) made steering much easier and that probably eases the work for the steering box. 

Hope this helps.

 

IM015970.jpg

steering parts.pdf

note that there is an image AND a pdf -- you should look at both for parts information.

Edited by jdmitchjr@verizon.net
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