1955 RS-83 Resto Begins

[HorseFixer 2,012]

Stevebo, I wouldn't sell yourself short by no means. That JB weld is some pretty good stuff na I have used it many times.  This afternoon I will start layin some reinforcement beads down on the backside of that rim and see how that Lab Metal stuff works   as I picked up a couple cans of that stuff today.

 

~Duke

Edited April 1, 2014 by HorseFixer

[shorts 182]

Bob,   Have you contacted Coker tire in Tn. they are real popular with the vintage car guys for tire and wheel related stuff.

[HorseFixer 2,012]

Shorts. Yeah I remember you telling me about them. Thanks for the Reminder and Well yes I just called them told them what I need

and they Reffered me to ME MILLER TIRE.   I cant find a Major American Tire Company that Makes a 4X12 Tri Rib Front and a

8X16 Ag Tire Rear! and I dont want to put Shing Lee Flooey or Shlimp Flied LICE   on my ride!

 

~Duke

[stevebo-(Moderator) 8,040]

Original front tires for that tractor are 3.5 wide but are now easy to come by. If anyone has a source please let us all know.

[C-101plowerpower 1,605]

Original front tires for that tractor are 3.5 wide but are now easy to come by. If anyone has a source please let us all know.

 

these? http://www.bandenservicezuidwest.nl/webshop/artikel_detail.php?i_art_id=8496

and for the rears http://www.bandenservicezuidwest.nl/webshop/artikel_detail.php?i_art_id=8986

 

both are bkt brand tires, don't know where they come from but they are pretty good for their price

 

 

Koen

[stevebo-(Moderator) 8,040]

Those are 4.0 not 3.5 wide unless I missed something..

[C-101plowerpower 1,605]

Those are 4.0 not 3.5 wide unless I missed something..

 

those are 4.0, but does the .5 really matter? 

 

 

Koen

[HorseFixer 2,012]

Well actually my front tires are 3.0 X 12 and I surely cant find any of those but all I have found is 4.0 X 12

All I think I can find is the 4.0 has anyone seen any less wide?

 

~Duke

[HorseFixer 2,012]

Started in welding on the worse rim so I fired up MR.TIG and first started with the holes that were seen in the rims. Next were the large craters caused by the chloride   (that's stuff should be outlawed) after that I went after all the small craters. Before I finished I used 5 sticks of filler rod. I ran the tig torch slowly over all the bad areas and a couple burn through's occurred so I filled them. I feel confident that I have enough material and have brought the rim thickness back up where it should be.   I then spread in some Lab Metal time will tell how this product performs so far I like what I see.   Here are some pics.

 

~Duke 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ken B 3,116]

Thats the ticket Duke, lookin good!

[stevebo-(Moderator) 8,040]

Yes the extra 1/2 inch on the fronts do matter. If you look at the front end of many of these seniors they have been "knotched" so the inside of the wider tires do not rub. 

 

@Duke there are different true widths of the 4 inch wide tires so I would search for the the narrowest set you can find.... 

[neil 2,398]

looks great Bob, as long as the rim is structurally sound the rest is just cosmetic ,I know not ideal but  even if it last for 5 years of more gives  time to aquire a replacement rimor find an alternative . 

although not as bad, mine are in a similar state of moon like surface , besides i think its sometime nice to see a few battle scars..  

[ol550 827]

Duke,  any chance you can move the spokes on the front hub to allow for a wider tire?    

[HorseFixer 2,012]

Yes the extra 1/2 inch on the fronts do matter. If you look at the front end of many of these seniors they have been "knotched" so the inside of the wider tires do not rub. 

 

@Duke there are different true widths of the 4 inch wide tires so I would search for the the narrowest set you can find.... 

 

Stevebo, Guess I have never paid attention to any seniors being Notched   What do they notch and could you measure your tires and lemme know what they are at the thickest part So's I can have a refrence to go by?

 

Thanks ~Duke

 

 

Duke,  any chance you can move the spokes on the front hub to allow for a wider tire?    

 

Mike Good question, I hope I wont have to do that.

 

~Duke 

[HorseFixer 2,012]

I was out working on the Senior yesterday evening and tried to Start the Wisconsin engine & discovered I had a very weak Spark I could read some spark through a Neon Spark Plug Tester but it would only light up one side which indicates a weak spark. I could get no spark across the plug. So this morning I dove into the Wico Mag. The first thing I ran into was a suspect Condenser      kinda looks like sumptin may have got a lil warm?     I then looked at the points and they looked like sandpaper.  Then I took off the plug wire and Introduced it to MR. Ohm Meter and all I can say is 28.12 Ohms on the old wire compared to 0 zero Ohms on a fresh New Belden is no doubt a little difference in those resistance readings. I cleaned and re gapped the points, put an oddball new condenser in and replaced the Plug Wire still not much fire in the hole.   I did some research and talked to a guy on the Net who rebuilds and sells these Wico Parts and he says 9 times out of 10 when he rebuilds one it has bad points, condenser or Coil. Well I have those parts coming hopefully by the weekend. 

 

Well this answers a few questions as a little more of the Mystery or History of this Senior is coming to light .     My WH Dealer friend who I got the Tractor from told me how he came about it. He said a guy brought it to him because it quit running and wanted to trade it in on something. So there it is Mystery Solved and I am soooo glad to know that was the reason.... Or at least I hope so. I will just have to keep my fingers   and hope that I can get it running decent. I have it up on jacks with the wheels off so I may be able to get an indication of the drive train condition. Here are some pics.

 

~Duke

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Martin 2,130]

enjoying the updates on this one, Duke.

 

heres   for the ignition being the main reason for the engine not running. 

[fireman 1,021]

Hey Duke,

If your going to the show I can have one of the CT guys bring that Wisconsin down!   

 

[HorseFixer 2,012]

enjoying the updates on this one, Duke.

 

heres   for the ignition being the main reason for the engine not running. 

 

Thanks Martin,    Parts didn't come today so I am still crossing my fingers.

 

~Duke  

 

Hey Duke,

If your going to the show I can have one of the CT guys bring that Wisconsin down!   

 

 

 

Thanks Jeff,     I am going to try and get this one running first cause I would like to keep what's on the Tractor, I think you can appreciate that.      As for the Show don't think I can make it. 

 

~Duke 

[fireman 1,021]

I hear ya. Same goes for me as far as the show. Got a lot going on all around the same time.

[rwilson 128]

I like seeing guys bringing these old Wico's back to life! Nice job on the rim too.

[ol550 827]

Worked with an old timer many years ago that worked on all the mags that came into the shop.  First thing he would do

is clamp them in a vise. Never turned one until securely fastened.  Kept him from throwing it when it lit up.

[SousaKerry 500]

Watch out when you get that old Wico sparkin when they are good and hot they will knock you on your A$$ real fast.  Played with a few and found out the hard way more then once.

[shorts 182]

I used to work in a marina, we had a spinner box built into an angle iron bench with a wood top, standard procedure was to remove the mag and put it on the spinner box to set the spring tension on the points and then spin the mag to set the dwell instead of just using feeler gauges, Rule 1, ground the coil output before turning on the spinner box/motor, did I mention make sure to ground the coil output before turning on the spinner box,  Rule 2, don't touch the angle iron frame of the bench while you're holding the body of the mag and spinning it to set the points, final test was to disconnect the coil output ground and check for spark while spinning the mag. anything less than a  spark that would jump a 1'' air gap was considered unacceptable. If you don't think that that much spark will light your fire try becoming the coil out ground or get close to the bench frame and be the air gap to test the coil for spark, you won't do it a second time.

[HorseFixer 2,012]

Well  I got the Wisconsin engine going.    I rebuilt the mag and then the carburetor. I am pretty happy that the ole girl doesn't smoke so that is good news. Here is a video of the engine running. I had a Couple Pal's stop by  today all the way from New York so They helped me run it through the motions and take this Video. Not seen Is Buckranchers better half Jo on the Camera.    Really enjoyed the visit! 

 

  

Edited April 27, 2014 by HorseFixer

[stevasaurus 22,229]

:)Excellent video Bob...always nice to have good help.

Edited April 28, 2014 by stevasaurus