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Pickle

KT17 II overhaul

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Pickle

It took me nearly three weeks to get time in the garage to see where the oil was leaking from my recent engine overhaul.

The tins, fins and block were damp with slinging oil enough that the grass clipping stuck fast to everything and made a real mess.

I cleaned everything off with cleaner and compressed air, reinstalled the flywheel and stator, then ran he engine several minutes to determine the oil leaks origin. After I removed the flywheel the second time, thinking I was going to find a leaking cam plug, I was surprised to learn it was the flywheel side crankshaft seal that had leaked. More cleaning, removed the old seal with a hook shaped pick, ran silicon around the new seal and installed it to the depth of 0.0315 below the blocks surface. 

So far it appears to be holding. I am glad! We've had so many flood level rains the grass here is almost out of control, my next day off will provide the needed seat time. My next project is to replace the six deck arbor bearings and install three new "wheel horse" brand cutting blades. I hope y'all are doing well with your tractors - hot weather is just ahead for us.

Edited by Pickle
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MalMac

It's not unheard of a main seal spinning or moving with the crankshaft. Not so much as spinning as fast as the crank but actually rotating somewhat. Even though it's pressed in. I had this happen on a couple of K rebuilds. I talked with a very experienced small engine re-builder and he showed me a old service bulletin from Kohler on this very subject. All Kohler recommended was using some of the orange sealant on the outside of the seal to the block. Not very much just enough to keep it in place in case it decides to move. I never would have thought after a press fit that it would move. All the K's I have rebuilt this only happened on two of them, so it must just be a small percentage. Wonder if it was the seals, block or what that cause's this. All I know is it can make a big mess in a hurry.

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Pickle

I believe the seals are manufactured a little smaller than a good press fit. I installed the first seal as I was assembling the two block halves and didn't pay careful attention to sealing the outside sealing surface of the seal. If it had fit properly it would have been fine. I noticed when removing the old seal and installing the new seal that they were not a great fit in the bore. This time around I added gray silicone aorund the outer ring and things are working fine so far. I mowed about one hour with it and no leak so far. Today I am replacing deck bearings and blades.

It's not unheard of a main seal spinning or moving with the crankshaft. Not so much as spinning as fast as the crank but actually rotating somewhat. Even though it's pressed in. I had this happen on a couple of K rebuilds. I talked with a very experienced small engine re-builder and he showed me a old service bulletin from Kohler on this very subject. All Kohler recommended was using some of the orange sealant on the outside of the seal to the block. Not very much just enough to keep it in place in case it decides to move. I never would have thought after a press fit that it would move. All the K's I have rebuilt this only happened on two of them, so it must just be a small percentage. Wonder if it was the seals, block or what that cause's this. All I know is it can make a big mess in a hurry.

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jackhammer

Pickle couple things on my 417..  Did you have any trouble on your motor with the drain .. I'm not sure there isnt a better way to maybe have a hose somehow attached to the elbow instead of the pipe to drain the oil. Any thoughts or can anyone else leave feedback ???

 

Do you remember what length nipple from the engine to the elbow was. ???    The 41/2 inch pipe is  what I would like to change out somehow.

 

And finally after working on the motor bolts to the plate   does your plate sit to the lefty side as mine does.  Overhangs  angle frame about 1 inch ??left side only.

 

Thanks

 

Rick

Edited by jackhammer
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Pickle

hammer - the nipple is 1" x 3/8" npt as far as I could tell. The green machines of about the same era had a drain petcock that I think would thread onto the 4 1/2" pipe that might make oil changes easier, you might want to check one out before you finish your oil drain.

The engine does hang over on the left side of the frame.

Edited by Pickle

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jackhammer

Thanks Pickle ,

 

I was beginning to this that some one (PO) had jeri rigged this motor onto that plate.

 

I will do more searching on the forum boards here , I'm sure someone a while posted a different way to set up his oil drain ,.

 

I appreciate your quick response.

 

Rick

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Pickle

Still running great after first mowing of the season!

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Pickle

I've been mowing 40+ hours and not even a hickup - the Kohler engine runs great!

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Wheel-N-It
Pick, thats good to hear! I love those old flathead twin Kohlers. I have a series 2 engine with almost 900 hours on it that I want to put in a project Wheel Horse if I ever get the time. Thank you for reporting back on the rebuild to let us know how its working for you! Any pics you can post?
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Pickle
Pick, thats good to hear! I love those old flathead twin Kohlers. I have a series 2 engine with almost 900 hours on it that I want to put in a project Wheel Horse if I ever get the time. Thank you for reporting back on the rebuild to let us know how its working for you! Any pics you can post?

I'll get you some fresh photo's once I locate my camera-it may be a few more days.

Pick, thats good to hear! I love those old flathead twin Kohlers. I have a series 2 engine with almost 900 hours on it that I want to put in a project Wheel Horse if I ever get the time. Thank you for reporting back on the rebuild to let us know how its working for you! Any pics you can post?

I'll get you some fresh photo's once I locate my camera-it may be a few more days.

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