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KT17 II overhaul

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My Kohler Twin 17 had been using some oil over last summers mowing season so I thought I would refresh the worn parts. I received the engine tins back from the jet wash this week, scuffed them with scotch brite, and applied self etching primer, then finished with a semi gloss engine enamel. I'll set them aside and include other assemblies here as I complete them.

 

 

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Looking good are you just re ringing it or completely overhauling it with pistons,rings,valves,seals and gaskets.

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Looking good are you just re ringing it or completely overhauling it with pistons,rings,valves,seals and gaskets.

So far I am replacing pistons, rings, cylinders, rods, crankshaft, camshaft, 4 valves. possible valve guides(cylinders still being done), oil pump drive gear, points rod, both crank sleeve bearings, points and carb overhaul, seals and gaskets.

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Sounds & Looks like you got all your bases covered for a good O/H :handgestures-thumbupright:

Edited by chazm
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So far I am replacing pistons, rings, cylinders, rods, crankshaft, camshaft, 4 valves. possible valve guides(cylinders still being done), oil pump drive gear, points rod, both crank sleeve bearings, points and carb overhaul, seals and gaskets.

So can any of you Die Hard Kohler fans tell me if these are genuine Kohler rods? since they were shipped to me in the Kohler boxes?

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Yeah Thanks - beware the big name vendor selling these as Genuine Kohler parts.

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The quality looks very good.  I would assume they are genuine.

 

What I have found is this.  Back when my 1986 F-250 diesel was new and "still in production" ford parts were 100% genuine.  When I bought the truck in 1999 and began fixing it, the truck & engine were "no longer in production".  The parts I got at the dealer did not match in any way the geuine parts I took off.  The heater core was a cheap mexico one, and I had to have the parts guy run a search for NOS parts across the county.  We found one at a dealer left over since 1989 and I had them ship it, exact and very high quality.

 

I bet the fact the K series and Magnums are out of production at this point, the parts kohler provides are second tier. 

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You could be correct about an aftermarket supplier of the connecting rods.

Perhaps with a couple days off from work next week I can begin the final assembly of this engine and get my 417A ready for mowing season.

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Thank you for all the pics and information regarding this rebuild. I love the KT17 engines! I'll be following this thread for sure :handgestures-thumbupright:

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Most of the parts you buy from Kohler for a KT17 are aftermarket parts that meet there standards. Sad, but they only have to supply parts for a engine for 7 years. after that they do not make them anymore. That is the standard in the automotive industry for many many years. I would not be afraid to use those rods, they are good as or better then the factory ones. Were you able to find the torington crank bearing needed for the Wheel Horse PTO clutch side load for the engine? I was not able to locate one I my last KT17 overhaul. Just put in a standard .010 bearing that was in it.

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Most of the parts you buy from Kohler for a KT17 are aftermarket parts that meet there standards. Sad, but they only have to supply parts for a engine for 7 years. after that they do not make them anymore. That is the standard in the automotive industry for many many years. I would not be afraid to use those rods, they are good as or better then the factory ones. Were you able to find the torington crank bearing needed for the Wheel Horse PTO clutch side load for the engine? I was not able to locate one I my last KT17 overhaul. Just put in a standard .010 bearing that was in it.

The funniest company reply I saw when researching this part was the following:

 

 

 

 

Kohler Item:  5203013S, 52 030 13-S

Mfg:  KOH

Description:  KOHLER (NLA) BEARING

NOT AVAILABLE FOR ONLINE ORDERING

Replaced By: 

Your Price:  $9,999.99

Updated:  Oct 17th 2013 11:54 AM

 

 

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Fits Kohler Engine Models: 

Note: The above part may fit more models than listed here. If your model is not listed, and you want to see if this part fits your model, use the "Original Equipment Parts Lookup" link located at the top left of this page.

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I have two of the side thrust bearings used on the PTO end of the KT17 engines.

Sears lists one for sale 5203013 @ 33.99 ea.

I had lots of difficulty finding the PTO end sleeve bearing, 5203014 but did locate the last one from small engine parts warehouse.

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The funniest company reply I saw when researching this part was the following:

Kohler Item: 5203013S, 52 030 13-S

Mfg: KOH

Description: KOHLER (NLA) BEARING

NOT AVAILABLE FOR ONLINE ORDERING

Replaced By:

Your Price: $9,999.99

Updated: Oct 17th 2013 11:54 AM

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Fits Kohler Engine Models: Note: The above part may fit more models than listed here. If your model is not listed, and you want to see if this part fits your model, use the "Original Equipment Parts Lookup" link located at the top left of this page.

thats what I saw too!
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I assembled the rods, cam, crankshaft and mated the crankcase halves today. End clearance on crank and camshaft worked out to .005 and .006 respectively. I installed a new plastic oil pump gear and roll pin, oil pump rotors and oil pick up tube and screen. I used plenty of Royal Purple Max Tuff assembly lube - thats a real nice product.

I ran out of time today and will try to set up the valve stem lash on monday or tuesday, and install the cylinders. I wish I knew of an easier method of setting the valve lash on these flathead engines.

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Was your jugs siliconed on or have gaskets when you pulled them apart? I tried to put gaskets on mine with good used valves, and it had over .020+ gaps. Removed the gaskets and used silicone and I could now grind the stems to fit .

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My original engine used cylinder base gaskets. The second set of cylinders I purchased used had been set up to use silicon. I have four good sets of valves including two new exhaust valves. I think I am going to try measuring without springs and without gaskets til I see what I have for lash setting and I may just grind the stems to pull it into tolerance. I think I can square up a v block next to my grinder and grind away small amounts of stem and measure til I get where I need to be.

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This is what I use

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I insert the valve in the block like this

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I spin the valve while slowly grinding material away

You can take off too much very fast if your not careful

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Good idea Scott - I have used a hole in a 123 block in this fashion to grind valve stems, much nicer when there was a Sioux valve grinding machine available where you clamp the stem down and use a numerically degreed wheel to crank the stem over into the grinding wheel one thousandths at a time.

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I missed out getting one a few years back. The guy needed some cash and he only wanted $200 for the hole setup. I didn't have it at the time and he sold it the next day to someone else. I know have a new way valve seat cutter.

Edited by smoreau
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I finished fitting the valve lash and hand lapped the valve sealing surface, then installed pistons and rings into the cylinders. I used silicon in place of the base gaskets, then torqued the cylinders and heads into place. After painting the engine and letting it sit overnight I added oil to the crankcase and will be working on the fuel, exhaust, and ignition systems today. If I wanted to push myself I could be riding the 417A again this evening, but with temperatures again in the 20's I may wait for another warm day. It shouldn't be long now.

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Dude ... you got skills !!! :handgestures-thumbupright:   I see that just by the way you marked the valves location... :eusa-clap:   good tip for newbie re-builders.

Nice paint job as well...Cool build ...keep the pics coming

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I am feeling a little tired today and I may resume work on the 417A after going out to lunch. I cannot find the belt guide that attaches to the engine closure plate, I'll look for it after lunch. If I continue I should be able to get the tins installed and engine mounted to the tractor.

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Good work friend! Will you be able to post a video of it running ???  i sure hope so!

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I have been riding the 417A around the yard and took it for a 1/2 mile road trip with the mower deck running. It seems to be doing fine. I made two videos but not certain that I can upload them here, so I'll post one more picture while I try to figure out how to get the video to transfer.

 

 

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