Jump to content
dwcphoto

gas tank seal

Recommended Posts

dwcphoto

Hi Folks,

  I'm back with another question on my 518-H (with the 520 rear).  I'm loosing some gas. It seems to seep somewhere and I'm suspecting it the seal where the gas line comes out of the bottom of the tank. Is this a fixable thing or do I need to get a new gas tank? It's real slow. I can't find a drip, but I can smell gas and when I go to add gas it seems like it's been leaking. thanks, d

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
rmaynard

I think what you need is a #46-6560 bushing. They are common to many Wheel Horse and other tractors. Check eBay, Amazon, or your local Toro Dealer. They should cost you about $3.00 plus shipping. If that is not the problem, you could have a crack in the tank, which will require replacement.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
dwcphoto

Thank you for your quick reply!  I'll look for that and give it a try. Thank you, dwc

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ol550

Most auto parts stores will have or can get the bushings.  Talk with the oldest person there, It's in their Primeline catalog. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
dwcphoto

To replace it, just pull the old one out and push the new one in??  Thanks! d

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
rmaynard

I do not have that model, but did have a C-101 (similar tank). If you have easy access to it, it should be fairly simple. Drain the tank, carefully remove the shut-off valve, then remove the bushing. Be careful removing the valve as there is a fragile debris screen attached to the inlet of some. When reinstalling the bushing, put a little grease or oil on it to facilitate easier insertion. Do the same with the valve.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
dwcphoto

Thanks! I'll stop in at my local shop and see if they have one and get started. Much appreciated. dwc

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
rmaynard

If you can't find one, PM me. I have some on hand.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
dwcphoto

Cool. Much appreciated. d

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pacer

I would encourage you to also check for the tank itself leaking - these dang plastic tanks are notorious for getting a leak at the seam. You gonna pull the tank anyway, so when you get it out wipe/clean off the bottom of the tank, all around the bushing and all across the bottom, with a little bit of fuel in it you should spot the seepage, whether its the bushing or the seam on the tank.

 

My C-100 just did the same thing you describe and I thought for sure it was the bushing, but on checking like I described I found it was the seam on the tank!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
dwcphoto

Good advice. If it's the seam, can it be sealed with epoxy or something, or is it a new tank? thanks, d

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
56flatbed

Strange as it may seem, my C145 actually had 2 leaks at the top.  When I pulled the tank to clean it out I discovered cracks on the top in the grooves on each side.  The bolts in the fender appeared to be hitting there and eventually wore through.  Those leaks allowed a lot of water to get in the tank.  JB Weld and all is well! :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
rmaynard

The tanks are made of polyethylene. There is no glue that will permanently stick to it. Anything that you use will eventually come loose, and you will be fixing it again. If it is leaking at a seam, you are better off replacing it. Used tanks are plentiful.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Martin

also check the molded in nuts on the bottom of the tank. there is one each side (you will see a bolt going up into the tank on each side). they can get torn out of there home with flexing of the rear fender support and related parts that bolt in around the tank. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ericj

also check the shut off valve while you have it out i generally replace it as well when i'm doing the bushing as far as the leaks if somebody put too long of bolts in the fender pan it is possible to crack the tank. a 518 has a gas gauge in it, so you will need to get a tank from a 518,520 or possible a 516. i have a 516 but can't remember if it has a gauge or not. check your fuel line also could have a crack in the line. good luck

 

 

 

eric j 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
dwcphoto

Thanks. Much appreciated.  With some warmer weather coming, I'll get a start on this. I don't have a garage, so I'm a driveway mechanic. thanks for all of your help. best, dwc

 

okay, one last question. if I have to replace the tank, is there a way to make sure the used one I'm buying is alright, since most of them are shipped after an auction. thanks! d

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
rmaynard

Buy from a reputable seller who will test it before selling it. I would suggest one of our vendors, Kelly or Joe's Outdoor Power.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
dwcphoto

Thank you for your advice. If I need one, I'll call one of these dealers. thank you! d

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
520Tom

My valve and and screen were gummed up pretty bad on a recent new (been sitting for 17 years) c-160. I replaced the seal and the valve, but now its leaking. Is there a sealer I can use or will fuel make the rubber seal swell and stop leaking eventually?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
slammer302

I know their is a sealer for metal tanks but I don't know about plastic I had a friend try the rubber sealer on a ATV gas tank it didn't work

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • Evil Archer 300
      By Evil Archer 300
      Yesterday I filled the Rear wheels with RV Antifreeze, Got the wheel Weights on and mounted the plow. Today Grading the 1500 ft Driveway.
      I'm impressed the new Eaton 1100 pushed like a bear. The Hydro lift is great. For the last 12 years I've been doing all the work here with the 310-8. Huge difference,
      When I bought this Tractor it was in tough shape all rusty and no maintenance. After some sandblasting ,Paint and a new Hydro I love it



    • Evil Archer 300
      By Evil Archer 300
      I recently purchased a 1988 518-H. When I check the Oil level on a cold motor it is very high, If I bump the ignition ( without starting ) it goes to the normal level. Any Ideas

    • Evil Archer 300
      By Evil Archer 300
      31180EO1   1OO862

    • Evil Archer 300
      By Evil Archer 300
      New member here. Springwater NY I have owned my 310-8 for about 10 years, It's tough and very reliable.
      Last weekend I bought the 518-H. When I got it home it didn't seem to have the ability to climb the hill in my back yard. About a 15 degree slope. I found out ( A little Late ) Wheel Horse used 2 different Transaxles in these. Apparently I got the Eaton 700.
      Thru your sight and a very helpful Retired Wheel Horse dealer I changed the oil to a Synthetic. Seems 100% better.
      I am looking to replace Transaxle with a Eaton 1100.No rush.
      I do believe I got a great deal even with the 700 Tranny. Tractor with weights and chains, 48" side discharge ,42 Rear Discharge,48" Plow and a cart. $550
      The Tractor needs some work and a Paint job, But it runs well and mows great.
      Thanks for the help and keep up the good work
      .


    • fireinspect
      By fireinspect
      I noticed that there appears to be a piece of metal or fine mesh screen that seems to be sticking up right where the fuel goes to the fuel line or shutoff valve. My tank has a shut off under the tank that will swivel 360.  I have a few questions; is there a way to safely get the valve out of the tank without messing it up, is that piece of metal normal?  I cannot take a picture of it just because the tank is black so there is no way to get the flash to work and if I try to use a flashlight you cannot get the camera in close enough ..???  on a side note where is a good place to find the wiring diagram for the regulator?  I know a bit out of the fuel range but seems to be more and more issues... thanks for any help   Pat
×
×
  • Create New...