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smoreau

Project for my 518, KWIK WAY LOADER

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Yeah ... that's my fear, slow. I dont want it to be so fast that it's jerky and hard to be gentle but I want it fast enough that I'm not sitting there thinking my lord is this thing ever going to lift the bucket ...

Not trying to hijack the thread. Anybody with more hydraulics knowledge than me feel free to jump in.

You can use just about any pump. You should be plumbing in a relief valve or a flow control valve. Either will limit the flow of oil. Or tame the wild beast!!!

Kwik Way used a relief valve on the loaders. Mine was turned down so low it was dam near useless. With some guidance from a few members here I opened it up a bit. It's a totally different animal now.

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Not trying to hijack the thread. Anybody with more hydraulics knowledge than me feel free to jump in.

You can use just about any pump. You should be plumbing in a relief valve or a flow control valve. Either will limit the flow of oil. Or tame the wild beast!!!

Kwik Way used a relief valve on the loaders. Mine was turned down so low it was dam near useless. With some guidance from a few members here I opened it up a bit. It's a totally different animal now.

I agree totaly and I have had to open up or tighned the spring tention on the reliefe valve on severa things in my time as the pump wares a little. Some times they are just set that low for safty, but most turn them up a little to max the performance. If you don't know what your doing you can cause some serious damage to the pump and or engine when you stall the pump under load. I have a few hydraulic books that referance when needed and they have paid off having them time after time. I bought them when I was trying to figure out the hydrogear pump and gear motor in my 1/3 scale ambulance. Link to that thread.

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had to work this morning and after work I picked up a better belt to do some more testing. Boy its cold out there! had to turn down the pressure releif valve to lower the pressure to get the new belt from smoking when under load and that worked much better. I wish the ground wasn't frozen so I could do some more playing with it, I did try to pick up the back of my s10 and it picked up the back of the tractor with no problem. Might try turning the valve a little more as it still has a little bit a belt slipping. Have to wait for warmer weather!  I will try to get a video up tomarrow.

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That's great to see, and a very nice inspiration for my lazy butt to get busy on mine! :)

 

 

Thanks!

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My little helper said no way on the video today. Too cold she said. I did freeze my ___ off playing with it over to my dads place. I have many things I need to do with it for the next few weeks. I'm thinking that I plan on blasting all the steel before painting it, so the plan is to use it and work out any issues before I paint it.

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very nice work and that will be a lot of fun IN THE SUMMER lol

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nice job on the build  :) 

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You do amazing work!!! It's very inspirational. Thank you for sharing it with us. One question I have though...The original Kwik Way diagonal support that goes to the front of the tractor looks a bit undersized to me for the amount of weight you will be lifting. It appears to be light weight round tubing judging by the way the ends were flattened. What are your thoughts on this? 

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Well thats the same way other loaders worked on the 520, I wasn't going to reinvent the wheel and I have maxed out the loader lifting ot the end of a tree that was over 50' long and they never even gave any sign of bending.  These loaders will only pick up 3-500 lbs max. Your asking for trouble trying to pick up anything more then that!

 

Well I got to play with it some more today and started out by putting on a KT17 carb to see if I could get it to run a little better, :( No luck it runs about the same and is lacking on power under load. It is burning less fuel then the other carb, but I need to do a compression test and may need a valve job.

 

After the carb I played in the snow with it and again I couldn't get my little helper to come out and do a video as she didn;t bring her outside play coat and snow pants again. :banghead:  I will get a video soon. I did play with the pressure valve and found the sweet spot and the loader works so much smother then when I started out. I used it for about a hour and had to come stop due to other obligations. It works great on paved drives for removing those drivin in piles of snow that are hard as a rock and frozen to the pavement. Lots of fun and this will be a great tool for yard work this summer!

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Let me just say that I was in no way questioning your workmanship. After I wrote that post I looked at several loaders and noticed that (like you said) all are designed that way. Sorry you're having trouble getting it to run right. I'm sure you'll get it working perfectly. I just bought my daughter (14 going on 40) a Sony Handycam so she can video some of my projects when she visits me. It's a great way to spend time together without her getting her hands dirty. lol

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I have done two loaders, I used similar pipe on one and had some issues. When I built the bucket I welded a D ring on the top center to hook a chain up when picking up items or dragging something. I lent the loader to a family member, (first mistake), and he tied a chain to a tree root and backed up. The mechanical force of the tractor and loader angle bent those pipes in a 90 and the loader tore loose from the sub-frame. I did beef up the areas.

Just one word of caution, these small loader machines are "yard helpers". They are not industrial machines like skid steers etc. Sizing up the load is critical. Staying in that 350 or so range is important. I am sure if my down brace pipe areas would have been stronger, something else would have broken in my case. There is nothing stronger then good old common sense!

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I have done two loaders, I used similar pipe on one and had some issues. When I built the bucket I welded a D ring on the top center to hook a chain up when picking up items or dragging something. I lent the loader to a family member, (first mistake), and he tied a chain to a tree root and backed up. The mechanical force of the tractor and loader angle bent those pipes in a 90 and the loader tore loose from the sub-frame. I did beef up the areas.

Just one word of caution, these small loader machines are "yard helpers". They are not industrial machines like skid steers etc. Sizing up the load is critical. Staying in that 350 or so range is important. I am sure if my down brace pipe areas would have been stronger, something else would have broken in my case. There is nothing stronger then good old common sense!

I agree with this. This is why I bult the bucket the size that it is. Its smaller then a snow bucket you normally see on these loaders, as I do not want to put the tractor on its side or nose over. I new that it is a yard helper and in no way a bobcat when I put this togeather, But I am very happy with its performance for what it is!

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I glad there was no offence just that the S10 test made me nervous.

That is a great job on the loader and 3 point. The craftsmanship is top notch. It going to be a big help.

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Just picked up a new horse hauler 2 weeks ago and have been playing with that for a while
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But last weekend I brought the 518 home and removed the loader and weight box to pull the magnum 18 for a valve job
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I took off the tins intake and muffler too pull the heads and valves.

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Pistons and bores look great! No redge and very little ware



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Time for a valve job

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Front exhoust valve was the issue, No clearance at all! intake was at .004 and the reat ex was at .011 and in at .005

 

I did the front cylinder tonight and got the ex at .016 and the in at .005.

 

Spec for this ingine is ex .016/.019 and in at .003/.006

Edited by smoreau
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I have finaly got back to this as I was in a lot of pain from a absesed tooth. That pain is the worst. Any how I am on some good drugs and finished up the other side today and it fixed the low power issue. I reinstalled the original carb and Know I need to make a few adjustments to the loader and reinstall it for some more testing, just need to get over this tooth thing first.

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I feel your pain. I have had an

Abcessed tooth and broken bones.

I'll take the broken bones.:unsure:

Sent from my SCH-S720C using Tapatalk 2

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Bump.  I know this is an older post, but can't take the suspense of wondering about the ending!  

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Sorry about the long delay. Its funny How we get so envalved in life and things change in our priority's. I moved into my dads house and have been very busy cleaning up the yard and finding all the weak spots in this tractor. It has about 100 hours on it moving around 200 tons of top soil, gravel, sand, and clay. I use this tractor for everything!! It has saved me so much time then any other tractor I own working in the yard from moving dirt to hauling wood from falling trees . its very easy on the yard and doesn't leave big ruts or tare up the grass. I am so glad I put this tractor together. It never stops to impress me what it can do!  It has broke a few times and the loader still isn't painted

 

Things that have broke.

 

3 point lift arm, bad factory weld let go and the shaft snapped. Just rewelded it back together and it has been fine sense.

 

3 point lift cylinder fittings braking off, wheel horse factory line fittings cannot be found. And the d series lift cylinders like to leak out of top seal. Still leaking.

 

Front tack-a-matic bolts snapping. Happend 2 times, second time I used grade 8 bolts. This also caused the front axle pin to come out. Not fun withal load. 

 

Loader pump seal leaking. Replaced wit 2 seals and haven't had a issue sence. 

 

Foot control linkage rod braking. 4 times and in a different spot every time.  Just rewelded it each time as I needed the tractor and didn't have the time to make a new one. Someday I will make a new one, only one bend has not broke...

 

There are several loose bolts found and a drive belt that just snapped one day, but there not part of the loader- 3point of the tractor.

 

It still has no paint on the loader or 3 point and at this time there is no plans on doing it for a while as I use it all the time. Just love this thing for all the time it saves in getting projects done around the house. I have never added the power steering as I feel I don't need it, the gear reduction steering and try rib front tires work great.  Yes it would be nice, but saving it for the next probject. 

 

 

 

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518 moving a 417 parts tractor yesterday

 

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Just a thought on that front tach a matic. Can you drill out the holes and move to a larger diameter bolt?  The shear rating would go up. Without me looking at mine this might be a stupid suggestion ,but hey! It's something to look into. 

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On February 24, 2014 at 7:55 PM, smoreau said:

Started to make up the new lines

 

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Just what I have been looking for! 

Might I ask for more info? What kind/size tubing, where can I get it, etc? I'm attempting to build my own loader from scratch, and haven't found a source for the tubing yet.




I guess I should have finished reading first. :)


I will have to see if I can find a local shop, I guess. Or see if I can rent the flaring tool.  I wonder if a car dealer shop would have one? I bet I could borrow one if they do

 

 

Edited by WNYPCRepair
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Scott...WOW!

Nice job on modifying your loader to fit the Horse.

Reading over your thread & looking at the pics makes it look easy....not so!

 

I'm not a welder...anything that takes me 5 minutes to weld, can be prettied up with a few hours of grinding.

Guess I got lucky when I found a complete Kwik Way setup.

They are handy & save a lot of wear & tear on the back.

 

Curious, do the 26" tires help with the stability some?

I've gotten into some soft ground where mine would start rocking on the 23x10.50 & thought about going up a size.

 

Compliments on the new Horse hauler too, almost looks like a twin to mine....minus all the rust.

 

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On 4/5/2016 at 4:19 PM, Rollerman said:

Scott...WOW!

Nice job on modifying your loader to fit the Horse.

Reading over your thread & looking at the pics makes it look easy....not so!

 

I'm not a welder...anything that takes me 5 minutes to weld, can be prettied up with a few hours of grinding.

Guess I got lucky when I found a complete Kwik Way setup.

They are handy & save a lot of wear & tear on the back.

 

Curious, do the 26" tires help with the stability some?

I've gotten into some soft ground where mine would start rocking on the 23x10.50 & thought about going up a size.

 

Compliments on the new Horse hauler too, almost looks like a twin to mine....minus all the rust.

 

Had to raise the seat. Pan up 1" to clear the tires, and bend the foot rests up 1/2"  and modify tithe belt cove and parking brake cover so they would move. Stability and traction is awsome!! It willgo through mud and wet clay better then all of my other tractors. I think it is because they float onto instead of sinking in. The rims are blanks from Miller Tire and the offset was set the same as the standard WH rim. They do help to keep the tractor very stable.  The fender flares on the Ford do hide allot of the rust. I did replace the cab corners last fall, sprayed them with valspar restoration  IH. Red rattle cans.  Wish they still made that paint. Matched very well. 

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As for the front teach-a-matic. It broke off again for the last time last Sat. This time it came off writhe a heavy load about 1 foot off the ground. Sorry as I didn't take pics, but the load of branches on the forks dropped to tithe ground and the hood flew forward to the point the it broke both hold down straps and grounded out the battery and killed the tractor. E clip and all 3 bolts were gone. Teach was bent pretty good.  This time I welded the 2" plate externally to the angle iron and then welded thetach-a-matic to the frame. Installed 3 new trade 8 bolts and also welded the pivot pin to the tack as it was damaged any way. Just do not want it to happen again. The next day the foot control broke again. Going to make a new one out of 1/2" rod after I get done with the front yard. 

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