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I'm thinking about buying a Leak down tester. Looking online they range from $29 to $200+. Harbor freight sells a Pittsburg brand one for $39. And several other companies sell that same looking one (Different names) for $29 to$49: There is an OTC brand one for $&9 and $199.
So what do y'all use?
Does anyone have the Harbor Freight one? I'm a little skeptical l, but like the price for the little bit I will use it. Of course if it's not accurate it a worthless .
This is my first post. Several years ago I bought a c120 auto and have used it to mow and snowplow with great success. The other night in the midst of a snow storm I was in a hurry to get going, and didn't check the oil and didn't give the engine enough time to warm up. Result seems to be a broken connecting rod, since it cranks now much faster than it did before and won't start when it was a terrific starter before.
So I'm looking for ways to repair the damage I've done. I really love the tractor, comparing it to modern ones that feel like tin foil convinces me that I want to fix this iron horse.
I am in southwest Michigan, and looking for help.
thanks in advance.
Fast question ...
Per the IPL for the 6-1141 and 6-1131 54" & 56" blades - how is everyone pinning the rear blade lock arms so they can't unlock the blade ? I've ran into problems with this thing before wanting to unlock itself and drop the blade half off the tractor. It seems when back dragging rough pavement, especially if I back into a snow bank the thing is moving those locks out of position and allowing the frame to drop off. The only reason it stays at least somewhat under the D is the lift arm , but getting it back into position is no fun due to the weight of this thing and especially out in the snow/cold weather. Last time I had to drag the thing back to a clear area so I could wrestle it back into position, lift the frame and lock it again. I did wire them shut for now, but don't trust it and I use it to back drag quite a bit on rough areas I don't want to ram the cutting edge against and risk damaging the rear axle differential or anything else. Mine has been rebuilt with a new cutting edge of 1055HC and the frame is highly beefed up - most of it is now boxed in and the thing has gained nearly 50lbs of steel. It cuts great, almost too good but that random dropping it off is starting to irritate me - need some ideas here...
The smaller 42" and other frames lock from the other direction - so to speak. The brackets are also drilled to accept large hair pin cotters to keep those locks in place - I see no way the bigger blade frame is designed for that, unless I'm missing something ?
This is my first born custom and is still under construction. Only one of the hoods, gutted frame, seat tray and seat are from my recently acquired 551 Suburban. A newer 3 speed transaxle and belt guard will round out the remaining Wheel Horse parts. The front axle is flipped and moved forward 6 inches. Its origin along with the tie rods and steering column comes from a 102 Cub Cadet. Taking 2 steps back for every advance is part of the fun. But now I'm at a loss and overwhelmed at all the V drive pulleys available at Phoenix pulleys. Can anyone suggest what pulley I should use with the 13 hp Predator? Thanks in advance