Jump to content
Stonehouse

1045 Starter/Gen and ignition switch wiring and operation?

Recommended Posts

Hi, new to this forum and new to owning a vintage Wheel Horse. I have to get orientated with this site and this tractor, bear with me and I appreciate your help.

 

I have a new to me 1045 ser no 21918. it is in rough rough shape.  The wiring has been hacked up, a foot push button was hanging off the dash by one screw. No dash wires are connected to engine and most are missing. I used a battery to jump it and got the motor running, it even charges(high at 16v) and stays running without a battery. I even drained the water out of the transaxle and welded the rusted off shifter back together and gave it a go around the yard, 3 working forwards gears and a noisy reverse.  So I got something to work with.

 

I want to wire it back up but I am uncertain about why the push button was installed(maybe issues with ign switch). I have the wiring diagram and the ign switch has three terminals(as the diagram shows),one marked bat and two unmarked. according to diagram the B is on left(sitting on tractor), middle is S and right is I

 

My first question, how  is the ign switch  supposed to work? My switch has a middle position that the key goes in and out, no terminals have continuity. If I turn switch left, B and S  connect. if I turn switch right B S and I connect. the switch doesnt have a spring back position. Is this right? starter voltage is always applied to gen even after start up? and can someone explain how it should work or the key positions? forgive my ignorance toward starter/gen, I have been a Ford tech for 21 years, but I was born in 1971 a few years after this tractor.

 

My next question, this switch supplies the current to the starter gen for start up? what kind of current can it handle? it had a small length of wire that looked original still attached to the B terminal that looked like 10 or 12 gauge. there is a lenth of wire attached to the start terminal of the starter/gen that is the size of a battery cable(i cant see this attaching to the ign switch, must have been for the modified push button). The wiring diagram doesnt tell wire gauges.

post-12324-0-78975100-1388807432_thumb.j she is rough and has big list of parts needed, fenders, tool box, gas tank, belt cover, park brake and cover and stuff I don't know is missing.

post-12324-0-55238000-1388807443_thumb.j

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Your tractor should have a single ignition switch without any solenoid. If you find a used switch for a 1965-1967 wheel horse that was equipped with a 10hp or 12hp engine, it will be correct. All of the current ran through the switch for the starter/generator and coil. The original switch should have a B (battery), I (ignition) and S (starter). It appears you have a cheap universal replacement starter switch. Once the tractor starts, there should be no power going to the starter through the switch. If there is and it is wired correct, the voltage regulator is back feeding and will burn up the regulator and starter.

 

From the looks of it, you need a choke cable on the left side of the dash and a throttle in the right side. They are placed in the D shaped holes.As far as other parts, the correct tank can be found on most 1965-1969 wheel horses, the fenders tool box and parking brake lever are the same as most 1962-1964 tractors.

 

Hope I helped

 

Charlie

Edited by clintonnut

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

you can still get a correct original 70 amp key switch from cole-hersee

use 12 gauge wire for tractor ignition and 6 gauge for battery conections from key switch to starter generator

 

Brian

Edited by buckrancher

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you all for help, I didn't think this switch was right, you confirmed.

I will get the right switch and wire it up, right now I am going around and cleaning gen, reg and coil terminals.

Thanks, Kurt

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

While technically not correct, there are quite a few of us that use a solenoid to power the starter generator on the mid sixties tractors.

 

I know the original switch is rated at 70 amps, but I really don't like the idea of putting that much draw through an ignition switch, and also using a solenoid allows you to use smaller wires up to the switch which makes for a tidier area behind the dash.

 

Some people hide the solenoid inside the dash tower.  Personally I don't care if the Wheel Horse police see mine, I mount it on the engine:

 

IMG_2842small.jpg

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just replaced the ignition switch on my 1045.  I was testing the key switch output voltages and was getting 0 Volts on the "S" terminal with the key in the start position.  Napa part KS6600 works well.  This ignition switch forces you to turn the key back to off and then back to start if you try to start the engine and stop before the engine starts.  Good luck with your 1045, it is well worth saving.

Edited by WheelHorse79

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorekiwi,I would be interested in how you wired that setup.I have three tractors that use the starter/generator and like you dont like running that much power through a switch.Any chance of getting a diagram or instructions? I am not sure what switches dad put in these but a gemeral idea of how you did it,I could make it work.I too am not scared of the wheelhorse police.they will be after me later though,lol.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i did a walk through on it not long after mike suggested i should try the solenoid setup on a starter gen.....

 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Can someone check this diagram and tell me if it is correct? I am trying to put it to paper from the description.Sorry about the coffee stains in the top corner. :coffee:

 

post-9187-0-99641100-1390518560_thumb.jp

Edited by 19richie66

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×