WHEEL WEIGHTS ! ,,,,who uses what and why?

[JERSEYHAWG / Glenn 4,487]

my main concern will be for use with my 416-8 with the snow blower attachment. I was thinking wheel weights on all 4 wheels and chains on the rear. great time to be looking, but oh well. I also prefer metal weights over plastic and of course the coveted wheel horse symbol wheel weight. but that will have to be found.

 

do you guys prefer metal, cast iron over plastic weights, and why?

 

suitcase weights over wheel weights, why?

 

How much weight, wheel weights, front and rear tires, suitcase weights.  chains,,,,of course

 

Good time for this topic, cause I have none. lol     

 

 

[rexman72 210]

that's going to very with each person on what they like.I prefer cast iron weights.I use front and  rear wheel weights.I also use and weight box with 140 pounds of weight in it.the more weight the better the 417A moves.Its like having a little bulldozier moving the snow.

[js5020 111]

I'm currently running 50lb a wheel on the rears, nothing on the front at the moment. I use both the blower and blade depending on conditions.  I prefer steel or cast weight of the barbell type myself no need to chase hard and spendy OEM weights.  Barbell weights are easy to find and cheap, I got mine for free, just had to make the part to mount them.

[Sparky-(Admin) 19,439]

I prefer the cast iron rear wheel weights because they dont stick out past the rim like the plastic ones do. Not to mention they (cast iron) are just plain cooler. I also run inside weights on my main plow tractor. I'm not a fan of "hanging" weights off the machine as I feel it just loads the axle bearings up and has the potential to cause premature failure.

 

Mike............

[squonk 38,844]

Load the tires! You won't believe the difference! 

[doc724 924]

When I had my old 314, I used the plastic coated 50 pound wheel weights since that is what I could afford.  They did stick out beyond the wheel and I whacked the stone wall more times than I could count.  Eventually, the whacking pulverized some of the concrete inside and it came out of the holes I created.  On my 520xi, I picked up a pair of old Bolens 50 pound cast iron weights for the unheard of price of $40 for the pair.  They are installed on the rear and mount flush to the wheel.  In addition to these, I have 160 pounds of suitcase weights on the back.  Total weight of the tractor, the blower, the weights, and me is over 3/4 ton.  Have not gotten stuck yet!  If you are looking for weights, shop during the spring and summer and be persistent.

[Wishin4a416 2,185]

I have had the plastic wheel weights and chains on my machine since new. Never been without them even in the Summer. My ground is Hilly.

The plastic weights with the Wheelhorse Logo are still available from your Toro dealer, at least mine anyway. And the cast Iron front weights He has too.

[over60pirate 24]

Behind the 50# barbell weights are 35#'s of smaller weights, for a total of 85#/wheel.

They don't stick out far, and are real easy to install or remove. 

 

[slufoot733 70]

I have about #70 of bar bell weights on each rear wheel on my '78 D-200. The weight make a big difference in the snow. I like the weights on the wheels rather than on the tractor because extra weight on the tractor (i.e. suitcase weights, weight box, etc.) is all extra weight on the axle bearings. Wheel weight is NOT on the bearings.

 

Anyway, I purchased this:   http://www.ebay.com/itm/GARDEN-TRACTOR-WHEEL-WEIGHTS-SYSTEM-UNIVERSAL-MOUNTS-w-hardware-/230670440912?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35b50799d0#ht_1485wt_1292 and I love it. I can add/subtract weight as needed and it's super easy to install.

[KC9KAS 4,741]

I have fluid in the tires, but my GT-14 has inside the wheel cast iron weights.

I like and need the weight when plowing the snow, but I don't want extra weight on the tractor as this could be too much on the axles.

I also don't want weight sticking outside my tires, as I would probably catch them on something and tear something up!

[over60pirate 24]

[Tankman 3,515]

I prefer the cast weights but, sent the WH weights along to my son.

 

I have the plastic weighted weights, leave them on with chains and plow for winter duties.

 

Easy enough to make weights if you like. A cast drum, two long bolts, 'crete.

 

 

[cheesegrader 433]

My 520 with the Kwik-Way has rear ags filled with rim guard, and 88 pounds of steel weight attached to each rim.

WIth that set-up, I can use the loader for almost everything, and don't have to use extra weight attached to the rear axle.

The beast is long enough as is.  The weight rack hanging off the rear end makes it very difficult to manuver in tight spaces.

I can add weight as needed using Matt's 2" hitch and a weight box if I am working with something really heavy.

The 520 with the blower and cab also has 88 pounds of steel weight on each rear, and 30 on each front.

The front weight helps when turning with the 2-stage blower.  TIres are turfmasters with 2-bar chains on the rear.

I think tri-ribs on the front would help with steering, and will probably make the switch when these wear out.

Next year, I get to add a 400 pound hard shell Cozy Cab.  Nothing will stop me, Bwah Ha Ha Ha...!

[JERSEYHAWG / Glenn 4,487]

Everyone one has nice stuff and good ideas. Ingenious and practical.

Glenn

[leeave96 487]

I've used fluid in the tires as well as wheel weights. I've got a rig to mount suit case weightts to the rear, but haven't used it - yet.

Flush mount cast iron weights are the best, IMHO.

[cruisnblue48 783]

I'm going to throw a bit of different opinion out there. Just learning about garden tractor pulling this year, seems to me that by bolting 100# or more weights to the rear wheels will make your engine work harder because it has to rotate all that weight that is physically attached to the wheels/hubs/axle. That would also create more stress on the rear axle, hubs, and gears because the extra weight is actually hanging on and rotating with the outer ends of the axle. I would much prefer to hang all extra weight on the frame which should not affect wear and tear on the axle and bearings. If the bearings are frequently lubricated, they should be designed to carry the extra weight attached to the frame including the rider and any attachments. My C120 puller weighs 500# and I weigh 200#. In order to pull in 1100# stock class, I have to add 400# of weights to the frame and axle housing... none of it gets attached to the wheels/axles. I also use aluminum wheels which, being lighter than steel wheels, means the engine has less weight to physically rotate. I know this works because I get great traction pulling a weight transfer sled during competition, but the same theory should apply to pulling or pushing a plow, snow blower, mowing deck or any other attachment in regular garden/lawn applications.

Edited December 25, 2013 by cruisnblue48

[Don1977 604]

I'm going to throw a bit of different opinion out there. Just learning about garden tractor pulling this year, seems to me that by bolting 100# or more weights to the rear wheels will make your engine work harder because it has to rotate all that weight that is physically attached to the wheels/hubs/axle. That would also create more stress on the rear axle, hubs, and gears because the extra weight is actually hanging on and rotating with the outer ends of the axle. I would much prefer to hang all extra weight on the frame which should not affect wear and tear on the axle and bearings. If the bearings are frequently lubricated, they should be designed to carry the extra weight attached to the frame including the rider and any attachments. My C120 puller weighs 500# and I weigh 200#. In order to pull in 1100# stock class, I have to add 400# of weights to the frame and axle housing... none of it gets attached to the wheels/axles. I also use aluminum wheels which, being lighter than steel wheels, means the engine has less weight to physically rotate. I know this works because I get great traction pulling a weight transfer sled during competition, but the same theory should apply to pulling or pushing a plow, snow blower, mowing deck or any other attachment in regular garden/lawn applications.

All that extra weight is on the axle bearings.

[JackC 616]

Has anyone mentioned cement?  This block stays on the back year round.  For plowing, I add the wheel weighs on all fours and chains on the back.  This is my ugly one but I love it just the same and it moves just about anything for me.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[brandonozz 168]

 

I'm going to throw a bit of different opinion out there. Just learning about garden tractor pulling this year, seems to me that by bolting 100# or more weights to the rear wheels will make your engine work harder because it has to rotate all that weight that is physically attached to the wheels/hubs/axle. That would also create more stress on the rear axle, hubs, and gears because the extra weight is actually hanging on and rotating with the outer ends of the axle. I would much prefer to hang all extra weight on the frame which should not affect wear and tear on the axle and bearings. If the bearings are frequently lubricated, they should be designed to carry the extra weight attached to the frame including the rider and any attachments. My C120 puller weighs 500# and I weigh 200#. In order to pull in 1100# stock class, I have to add 400# of weights to the frame and axle housing... none of it gets attached to the wheels/axles. I also use aluminum wheels which, being lighter than steel wheels, means the engine has less weight to physically rotate. I know this works because I get great traction pulling a weight transfer sled during competition, but the same theory should apply to pulling or pushing a plow, snow blower, mowing deck or any other attachment in regular garden/lawn applications.

All that extra weight is on the axle bearings.

 

 

In my mind, if your worried about the extra "wear and tear" on the tractors drivetrain caused by rear wheel weights then you shouldn't be using the tractor to push or pull anything.  As the power is applied to the transaxle it is transferred thru the wheels to the ground.  Any resistance to the movement of the tractor will be additional stress on the bearings - similar to adding weights directly on the wheels.  Pulling a plow, towing a trailer or plowing snow all cause more load on the bearings especially when getting going turning rotational energy into movement.  The additional weight ON the tractor does cause down force on the bearings where the axle rides but I realy don't worry too much as that is what I have to do to counter-balance the FEL so I can steer.  If your going to use them and work them sometimes you have to do what you have to do to make them useful.

Crusinblue,

I don't know much about pulling tractors except it looks really cool and fun!  I would speculate wheel speed and weight distribution makes a big part of the setup and how well the tractor gets going and hooks up.

 

Anyway, my  

[squonk 38,844]

Once you get rolling, The momentum of the fluid rolling along in a tires give you an extra push. As the tractor starts slowing down say pushing snow, the fluid wants to keep going forward. You have to try it to believe it! 

[JERSEYHAWG / Glenn 4,487]

Ok. Fluid in the tires. I have seen this mentioned a few times on different chats. Who does this? What do you use. Fluid wise? And how much do you put in the tires? Positives and negative comments please. Ty

Glenn

[JERSEYHAWG / Glenn 4,487]

Ok. Did a you tube search. I see anti freeze washer fluid combined with a home made rig to pump into the tires is the way to go.

Glenn

[brandonozz 168]

Glenn,

 

You can use lots of different fluids in the tires but I have never needed a pump to get it into the tire.  Pull the valve stem core and connect a 3' to 4' hose to the stem.  Connect the other end to your source (sitting on a table above) and let gravity do the work.  It supprised me but the air will bubble back out (thre the hose) as the fluid fills the tire.  I drilled a hole in a cap from a windshield washer fluid bottle (one gallon) and used a bulkhead fitting thru the cap.  Screwed the cap back on the bottle and set it about 4' above the tire and it filled the tire.  When the bottle is empty, screw a full bottle back on.  I've heard some guys use a funnel the same way.

If filling tubes I would highly recommend putting some vice grips on the stem to keep the weight of the fluid from pulling the stem into the rim - don't ask me how I know this can happen!  After valve core is reinstalled and a bit of air added you can remove the vice grips.

[squonk 38,844]

here's another way.

 

[JERSEYHAWG / Glenn 4,487]

mike / squonk, for some reason the pictures wont open on that other thread. I sure would like to see your solution of how to.

It seems you conquered all the questions of HOW.

 

Glenn