New guy stumped on charging system

[Save Old Iron 1,537]

The only thing that was different was the plate that the ignition switch mounts was not attached to tractor, just laying by shifter.  I guess it needed to be attached to ground the switch.  Correct or incorrect. 

 

Once again, the metal shell of the ignition switch is not connected to anything inside the switch, soooo .....

 

I say incorrect

 

unless someone has a better explaination than "well, it seems to work OK now". Always go with proof of a fault over guessing you found one. Guessing cost you over $100 this time around. No worries, we have all done it at some time.

 

I would say it is more likely a poor or intermittent connection in the wiring to the back of the ignition switch was stressed into working due to the physical repositioning of the wire bundle back into the tractor. If the terminals of the old ignition switch were funky, most likley so to are the insides of the push on female terminals in the remaining switch connector. Some new Packard 56 terminals on those wires will get you back into proper order.

Edited November 26, 2013 by Save Old Iron

[Save Old Iron 1,537]

Was thinking about the 24 ac volts in headlight circuit.  Is this right:  24 volts x 3 amps equals 72 watts.  2 sealed beam lights 35 watts each.  I didn't think about checking voltage in that circuit today because i was so happy the thing was charging.  the lights are burned out anyway.  What do yal think?  Also found out today none of the safety switches are working, maybe just cleaning them up they will work

 

Shows you're thinking but with that logic, as long as I fused a 100 watt 120 volt light bulb properly, I could plug it into a 240 volt socket and it would work fine.

 

This is one of the remaining mysteries of the unregulated 3 amp system. The stator for the AC / headlight circuit is certainly loaded or challenged when the headlights are turned on. I'm sure the output voltage does drop when the headlights are turned on. I'm keeping an open mind but at this point I'm not willing to believe the stator output drops in half to 12 - 14 volts when headlights are turned on.

 

For now I'm pulling up a chair to watch events as they unfold. I think there is more to follow. I hope you are all set, but my whiskers are still twitchin'.  Good troublehooting and kudos for hanging in there.

 

Edited November 26, 2013 by Save Old Iron

[Fishroe 4]

Thanks for all the helpful info guys. I'm gonna rewire the whole tractor. rounding up the wire now ordered the packard connectors from one of those websites somebody posted. they should be here in a day or 2 when it get it wired up then i will buy 2 new headlight lamps and see what happens. i seen them in tractor supply the other day $18 a piece what do yal use to crimp the wire on those packard terminals i seen a tool for it but i'm not spending $119.00 any suggestions

[Save Old Iron 1,537]

use the search function for PACKARD CRIMPER or C160 WIRE HARNESS.

 

Martin has a good post on redoing connections in a C series harness. There are part numbers included in the post and a proper crimper for around $35.