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Muel

Muel's B100

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Wishin4a416

Thats a very nice tractor you have there! Years of service left in that one.

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AMC RULES

Congrats on the new house, and  :wh: .   :handgestures-thumbsup:

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leeave96

That's a really nice tractor!

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Muel

Thanks everyone!  As for the shortness of the plow, it's working great so far.  If I happen to come across a longer one and I have the extra money, I will grab it.  Otherwise, I guess I won't fix what aint broke.  It gets the driveway good and clean and I discovered (by accident) that it does a pretty good job with leaves and yard debris too.  I even used the plow to make a small waterway for drainage.  I'm lovin it.

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boovuc

Hi Sam,

If you check out CL in Columbus and Cincinnati, you'll find a few plows that will fit your tractor. I was just in Cincinnati over Christmas and New Years and spotted several plows for long frame wheelhorse listed in each. (Searcheach site under both Wheel Horse and Wheelhorse).

Enjoy your new house and stay safe!

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Muel

Thanks boovuc.

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Muel

I think we have finally seen the last of the snow in my area and my grass is starting to grow, so I decided to change out the plow for the mowing deck.  I also went through it, sharpened the blades and checked the fluids to make sure everything is ready for summer.  I thought I checked the differential lube when I bought the tractor, but apparently I didn't.  When I pulled the dip stick it was covered in greenish brown.  I drained it into a pan and it came out like softserve ice cream.  Not cool.

 

20140421_105309_zpsuyp7a1qn.jpg

 

I left it open to make sure it drained comepletely out, but this stuff is super sticky.  I couldn't spray it out of the drain pan even with carb cleaner.  I've heard of people filling the differential with diesel taking it for a short spin and then dumping it out to clean it out, but I thought I better check with the experts (you guys) before I attempt it myself.

 

The axle seals don't leak and I have kept this in the garage since I bought it last fall, so I'm assuming it has been in there for a while.  I had not noticed anything by driving it, but I'm sure it caused some surface rust or pitting inside.  I just want to make sure I get it all the way out so it doesn't cause any more damage.

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gwest_ca

If you can lift the front of the tractor up about 18" you will get more out of it. There is a hump on the bottom for the center case through bolt.

 

Garry

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rmaynard

Running it around with some diesel fuel or kerosene is fine. As Garry said, when you drain it again, try to lift the front end while it drains to get all the oil out. Refill with the proper gear oil and you should be good.

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bmsgaffer

Make sure you drain it from the bottom plug too. There is a hex screw on the bottom (often hidden by dirt and crud) that will let the oil drain out the bottom (and you'll get more out)

 

It could be that consistency from water getting in (shifter boot usually). I had that problem after plowing.

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Fordiesel69

Yep, you will need to fill with kero or diesel but do limit the amount of driving.  If possible just jack it up and run it a bit without a load on the wheels.

 

Just use a cheap gear lube, almost any will work from 75w-90 up to 75-140, and even the 80w-xx and 80w-xxx.

 

My beleif is to use a less expensive gear lube and change more often than to go with syntetic.

 

Also the shafter boot should be replaced.

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shorts

Another option is to fill it with inexpensive gear lube, none of it is cheap anymore and then add some butyl cellusolve and run it for half an houf to get the moisture In suspension in the oil before you drain and refill for use, then replace the shifter boot.  butyl celusolve is one of the ingredients in oil based paint and should be available from a real paint supplier, not your local hardware or big box store, you may have to sign a hazmat shipping form to get it.

Edited by shorts
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Muel

Thank you all for your input! 

 

Before I originally posted, I refilled it with fresh gear lube and ran it for a bit before draining it again.  It also came out like green softserve.  I went and got some diesel.  Filled it with the diesel and ran it for a little bit then just rocked it back and forth to try to slosh it around and wash it off the insides.  I then drained the diesel and it seems to have gotten everything out.  I refilled with new lube and it's running great!  Mowed the lawn without a problem.

 

Thanks!

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rmaynard

Just a thought on lubes for the tranny. Many of these old cast iron transmissions go for years, if not decades with oil that has never been changed. Almost all of the ones that I have found have some amount of water in them. So my theory is, ANY new lube, whether 75W or 140W, cheap or expensive, has to be better than the crap that came out when you drained it. I use the cheap stuff from Walmart and it works just fine.

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47JDG

Just a thought on lubes for the tranny. Many of these old cast iron transmissions go for years, if not decades with oil that has never been changed. Almost all of the ones that I have found have some amount of water in them. So my theory is, ANY new lube, whether 75W or 140W, cheap or expensive, has to be better than the crap that came out when you drained it. I use the cheap stuff from Walmart and it works just fine.

This is exactly how I feel also. It also worth noting that oil technologies have greatly improved since these tractors were new, so theoretically the cheapest off brand oil you can find now should be far superior to the most expensive brand name oil that was available at the time then.

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Muel

Good to hear cause I'm also using the Walmart 140W.

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rmaynard

Sam, I use the Walmart 85W140. Never had a problem. The straight 140W might be a little stiff in extremely cold winters, but at least it won't freeze up on you as it could with the watery mixture that you drained out. :thumbs:

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