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Hodge71

42" Rear discharge issues

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Hodge71

I bought a rear discharge deck a couple months ago. Some may remember that it had these crazy baffles in it that everyone swears aren't factory. I was told by a bunch of people to cut them out, so I did. I now have found at least 4 decks with these baffles and a few that dont have them. post-1339-0-80861100-1378911161_thumb.jppost-1339-0-23062700-1378911178_thumb.jppost-1339-0-43425400-1378911203_thumb.jp

 

Well I never cut the grass with them in so I have nothing to compare this to other than a side discharge deck but I have noticed that this thing cuts like poo.. It stripes the lawn with 3 high spots like the blades are jacked up. I have tried new gator blades, new factory Toro blades at the tune of $75, both sets at the same time and found that no matter what it still skips and the yard looks like an MTD cut it. I have tried mowing twice, even 3 times in different directions and it still leaves the high spots. The deck is dead quiet, actually the quietest deck I've owned, the blades are sharp, I have checked them for level on the deck itself and they are, they are also tight to 75 ft pounds and don't slip on the spindles, yet it still skips right in the center of all 3 cuts with the center blade being the worst. I have no idea what could be causing this. I have cut with the deck on my 416 and my c-160 and it makes no difference, so I have eliminated the tractor as the cause. Maybe making new baffles would fix it? But why would some 42" RD decks not have them and cut fine? I'm baffled, so to speak....or maybe I'm not  :confusion-scratchheadblue:

Anywho..... any ideas where to look? Frustration is setting in.... I was told that these decks cut better than any WH deck but I'm doubting big time.

 

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C-160 Auto

That's weird. My RD deck with no baffles cuts great.  (and I bought it new with no baffles)  Have you removed the deck belt and check that all 3 spindles spin freely? Blades aren't installed upside down?  Kinda sounds like maybe the blades aren't spinning fast enough or something.

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Hodge71

That's weird. My RD deck with no baffles cuts great.  (and I bought it new with no baffles)  Have you removed the deck belt and check that all 3 spindles spin freely? Blades aren't installed upside down?  Kinda sounds like maybe the blades aren't spinning fast enough or something.

 

 

I have tried tried spinning the blades independently with no deck belt and all 3 spin just fine for about 5 or 6 seconds after I stop pushing them, the center spins for maybe 8 seconds. I would consider them good. Maybe I'm wrong and thats my problem. I just figured that with how long they spin and the fact that they are quiet, the bearings were good. I greased the heck out of them and the length of spin time didn't change. How long should they "coast" after you stop pushing them by hand? 

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C-160 Auto

Hmm, it sounds like the spindles are good.  Does the idler pulley on the deck spin free?   Are you using the C-160 8 speed tractor with it?  What gear do you mow in?  I have no experience with the baffled deck, but maybe the baffle needs to be on it for some reason?

 

Sorry, I have no answers yet....just a bunch more questions! 

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Lane Ranger

The blades sure look short in the photo.  It looks like they have been sharpened beyond normal life of cutting.

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MaineDad

Is the tension pulley on the deck tight? Have you adjusted the level of the deck so the front is just slightly lower than the back? I have used a RD deck with no baffles for years and it cuts beautifully. In fact my neighbor always comments on what a nice job my mowing deck does. I'm with Lawn Ranger, those blades looks very short and deformed.

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C-160 Auto

  He said he has new blades and took the baffle out? Maybe those are pics of before?

 

It stripes the lawn with 3 high spots like the blades are jacked up. I have tried new gator blades, new factory Toro blades at the tune of $75, both sets at the same time and found that no matter what it still skips and the yard looks like an MTD cut it.

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Hodge71

Those are not the blades on the deck now. They are what was on there from the PO. I believe he was a professional rock farmer or he felt that it was easier to sharpen the blades on the rocks than it was to pull the deck and sharpen them correctly. There is a brand new set of Toro blades that fit very close to the baffles and each other. The idler/tension pulley on the deck is fine. I do use the C-160 8 speed with this deck. I have tried to mow in every gear from third low to first and second high. The speed doesn't make a difference in cut quality. Believe me,  I'm as lost here as the  rest of you. Keep asking questions hopefully together we can get to the bottom of this issue. I will check the deck for level again on the tractor and make sure that the front is 1/4 inch lower than the back. Im not sure how that small increment could make this go away. It looks really bad.  

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C-160 Auto

My neighbor tells me the same thing....after I mow his yard for him!  I love riding my Wheelhorse so much, if my neighbors yard need cut, I go cut it.

 In fact my neighbor always comments on what a nice job my mowing deck does.

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C-160 Auto

Professional rock farmer....that's funny.  Yea, this kind of stuff drives me nuts too...we'll figure it out.  Is it by chance leaving the "high strips" where your front roller wheels are?  The area that does get cut, does it look like a nice, clean cut?

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Hodge71

More things for me to check...lol....More news at 11....well maybe not 11 but I'll update later......

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Hodge71

I just ran out and mowed one of the few green areas in my yard (over the septic tank drain field) I took some pics but it doesn't show the detail that I see with my eyes. The high strips don't seem to correspond with the anti scalp rollers. Its more of a general smattering more towards the center of each blade and very much more pronounced on the center blade compared to the outboard blades. I just pulled the deck off as it almost appears the the blades aren't on correctly and therefore pushing the grass down instead of creating a vacuum to make the grass stand up straight as it gets mowed. Blades on correct so now I'm really puzzled. I wonder if the K-341 isn't at 3600 RPM therefore the deck is slow? I guess I need to buy a tach before I do anymore troubleshooting. I wonder if Harbor Freight sells them. I know if i put the mower drive belt on the other pulley it turns faster but doesn't have the torque in really heavy thick grass and the belt may slip or the engine bog, at least I was told that before.

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dcrage

My 37" SD will leave grass "laying down" when cutting during dry late season conditions -- I always assumed it was just the grass being too dry to stay upright for cutting

 

Also, I also get lots of "misses" when doing the real heavy cutting at my father's house -- That is just from overloading the mower when cutting 2 ft tall grass -- Doesn't sound like you are cutting stuff that heavy

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Hodge71

No Dave my yard is similar to a wheat field. We are way behind in rain here. It seems like when it comes, we get 2 inches in a half hour and it all runs off. I need about 2 days on staedy constant rain and then maybe the yard will spruce up a bit. I wasn't able to cut any thick grass with it yet but I'm sure it can only be worse than it is now.

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DoctorHfuhruhurr

I just ran out and mowed one of the few green areas in my yard (over the septic tank drain field) I took some pics but it doesn't show the detail that I see with my eyes. The high strips don't seem to correspond with the anti scalp rollers. Its more of a general smattering more towards the center of each blade and very much more pronounced on the center blade compared to the outboard blades. I just pulled the deck off as it almost appears the the blades aren't on correctly and therefore pushing the grass down instead of creating a vacuum to make the grass stand up straight as it gets mowed. Blades on correct so now I'm really puzzled. I wonder if the K-341 isn't at 3600 RPM therefore the deck is slow? I guess I need to buy a tach before I do anymore troubleshooting. I wonder if Harbor Freight sells them. I know if i put the mower drive belt on the other pulley it turns faster but doesn't have the torque in really heavy thick grass and the belt may slip or the engine bog, at least I was told that before.

 

If you end up getting something at Harbor Freight don't forget a 25% off coupon   http://slickdeals.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=2089876&d=1372910324

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C-160 Auto

I can't help but think the blades are running backwards based on this.  Check direction the PTO belt turns the center deck spindle while it's running....shut her off and look under deck and see if that is the correct way.

 I just pulled the deck off as it almost appears the the blades aren't on correctly and therefore pushing the grass down instead of creating a vacuum to make the grass stand up straight as it gets mowed. Blades on correct so now I'm really puzzled.

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ericj

dumb question do have rd blades or sd blades on rd blades if i remember are longer than sd blades

 

 

eric j

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Hodge71

dumb question do have rd blades or sd blades on rd blades if i remember are longer than sd blades

 

 

eric j

I thought I had Rd but I may be sadly mistaken. I will now have to check that once the hail and lightning stops.

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Callen

Check your PTO for slipping. Mine had grease on it. Pulled fine till I engaged grass, seemed like the engine wasn't up to RPM. Also check the front bar that goes into the attach brackets to make sure it doesn't slide through the brackets. That causes the deck to crawl sideways and changes the belt tension.

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C-160 Auto

The RD blade should be 14 1/2" from blade edge to blade edge....or 14 3/8" blade edge to wing edge. (I just measured a new spare set I have)

 

post-11447-0-43487800-1378940087_thumb.jpost-11447-0-36533600-1378940104_thumb.j

 

 

 

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timo4352

I would double check all the belt routing. Maybe it's spinning backwards.

Seems to me I saw something on the forum here about that being possible.

Especially if you seem to be making crop circles instead of cutting.  :eusa-think:

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Moparfanforever

I was having trouble with my 48" deck leaving strips of grass and I put new Toro blades on and that helped a little bit , so I bought a new Toro deck belt and WOW , what a difference !! I could tell a difference as soon as I engaged the deck , sounds like a helicopter !!! No more grass strips either.

 

My deck belt looked okay , but I guess it was stretched enough to make the blades run slower than they should.

 

Not real sure how to check a belt , I figured the belt on my deck was old and I didn't know the history of the deck.

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skrusins

Did you say you tried Gator Blades, if you have they don't make them for a 42 RD wrong length.

Also did anybody suggest that deck could be warped? I would take the deck off and on a level

floor check to see if blades on both sides front and back all even..

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boovuc

Skrusins beat me to it. With the baffles out, that deck may have warped. I had a 42" SD that was warped on my original C-175. The shell was scraped because there was nothing I could do with it besides welding angle on it and hoping it wouldn't warp out in another direction.

 

PS.....Hope your storms weren't too bad. We had major rain from the trough your experiencing now!

Edited by boovuc

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Hodge71

Well there was some progress today. I did a little research this morning and found that the Gator blades are definitely too short and according to the part number on the Toro blades that I have, they are for a side discharge deck. I got the box and checked the number and even though I ordered RD blades, they sent SD. stinkin internet places..... :banghead:   As some may know the starting issues I have been having since I rescued this thing from the butcher that thought he knew about tractors. THe solenoid finally crapped the bed so I took it off and headed to the parts store to grab another one while it was still dry here. Bought the solenoid, took it home and put it on and the darn thing continues to try to start even after I turn the key off. I check the wiring and its exactly as the factory diagram says so I take it off and back to Advance Auto Parts for another one. 15 Mile round trip and a half hour after getting home The "NEW" one is installed, I check the wiring, hit the key and click......nothing..... :ranting:  :no: OK get the meter out, 13.3 volts into the solenoid and .5 volts out with the key on start.... :huhs: Now I'm a bit peeved at Advance for selling Taiwan ROC crap so another trip back and forth for Solenoid #3. This one does exactly like #1....tries to start even with the key off. I give up....took it back and got my 22 bucks back and went off to Ringtown Farm Equipment for my correct blades and a brandy new deck belt as this one has a few cracks, nothing I believe that is causing this issue but Moparfanforever said that it fixed his issue. I ask if she has a solenoid on the shelf and by George she does. She hands me an OEM Toro parts box and inside is a brand new made in America solenoid!!  It cost me 46 bucks but when I got home I put it on, wired it up, hit the key and the C-160 fires right up. Heres something you don't see everyday with parts.post-1339-0-32826600-1379008620_thumb.jp  I  So anyhow I decided that my local toro dealer is the people to deal with from now on. Enough with dealing with the internet and parts stores that sell junk. 

 

Boov.....

 

We made it through with no damage other than lightning strike to 1 oak tee and washed out driveway. 3.3 inches of rain in 2 hours and another .6 this morning. Black and ominous now so looks like we gonna get smacked again.

 

Its raining again here unfortunately so I will be waiting until later or tomorrow to replace the blades and spindle belt. I cant wait to see what the difference is between the RD and SD blades. I'll post pics when I get them. 

Edited by hodge71

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