leeave96 487 #26 Posted September 9, 2013 Nice looking tractor. You'll like that 36 inch deck and love the ag tires - especially if you put some wheel weights on them. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sdwyer41 8 #27 Posted September 10, 2013 Like stated above, this is the first WH I have owned, and there is a lot I don't know. Things like: Does it have a locking diferential? When working in the woods with it, a few times I got some tire spin and thought I was stuck, but then, it would just take off like the other tire kicked in. How do you hook up a tiller? Does it have a rear pto for that somewhere or is it a belt drive? I figure a snow blower would work off of the mower belt pullies. Would I need snow chains with ag tires for snow plowing, or just weights? Does the knob on the front adjust the mower deck belt? How tight should that be? That's the Mule Gear, right? Those are just the ones I can think of right now lol. Thank you for your patience. Steve Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
leeave96 487 #28 Posted September 10, 2013 Like stated above, this is the first WH I have owned, and there is a lot I don't know. Things like: Does it have a locking diferential? When working in the woods with it, a few times I got some tire spin and thought I was stuck, but then, it would just take off like the other tire kicked in. How do you hook up a tiller? Does it have a rear pto for that somewhere or is it a belt drive? I figure a snow blower would work off of the mower belt pullies. Would I need snow chains with ag tires for snow plowing, or just weights? Does the knob on the front adjust the mower deck belt? How tight should that be? That's the Mule Gear, right? Those are just the ones I can think of right now lol. Thank you for your patience. Steve No locking differential. Ag tires and weights will mostly eliminate the need for one. Tiller is a whole different animal, not hard to hook-up, but it is belt driven from the engine. The belt arrangement looks odd, but works like a champ. Lots of debate regarding ag tires vs chains with snow. If ice in in the mix, chains all the way. Wheel weights are always good. Front knob is the mule drive and tightens the belt. There is a thread on this somewhere on the forum from a few days ago. Most of all, take a step back. You've got a great tractor and there is LOTS of info available. The first place to start is in the manuals section. Go there and download your manual. If you can't find it there, Toro has them for free downloads too. All you need is your model number. You can get manuals for your deck too. Good luck, Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sdwyer41 8 #29 Posted September 26, 2013 So, the PTO clutch plate was completely worn out. Uppon further inspection, I do not think that the trunion was adjusted right, I don't think it was able to disengage the clutch completely. I have a new part ordered. Found one on Amazon for $59.99+ $6.50 shipping. I can figure out how to replace it, I have had the PTO clutch off and the pressure plate is only held on by 4 bolts, but I have now idea of how to adjust it once it is on. Apparently there is a 0.016 gap between the brake shoe and the clutch when engaged, but do I adjust the trunion until the clutch meets the preasur plate and go one more turn? Do I just do trial and error, try it, if it slips, take it one turn, try it if it slips take it one turn? Thanks for your help in advance. You guys are a wealth of knowledge and many of you seem to have infinte patience with those of us that are new to the Wheel Horse Addiction. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,444 #30 Posted September 26, 2013 If you go to https://lookup3.toro.com/partdex/index.cfm?xCaller=Toro and do a search for 310-8 they will all come up. Your's is not newer than 1989. There is a link to the attachment list on the right of each model. They list the attachment model sold the year of the tractor, the model that replaced the original and the model available when the list was updated. Often there are many more models between the last two. Now to add more to the list all attachments for the 1973 long frame models and the C-Series 1974-1984 except the C-195 will also fit your tractor. A few like tillers need a minor modification to lift them. Once you have the model numbers search the manuals here to see if we have it. If you can't find let us know what you need. There should be a decal on the rear fender pan with the long model number, serial number and possibly a 4-digit build date. Failing that post all the numbers off the engine decal including the serial number and will try to identify it that way. Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,195 #31 Posted September 26, 2013 but do I adjust the trunion until the clutch meets the preasur plate and go one more turn? Do I just do trial and error, try it, if it slips, take it one turn, try it if it slips take it one turn? That's more or less what I do... I might add that after mowing for a little while, shut the machine off and CAREFULLY! DON'T BURN YOURSELF! feel the PTO bell for excessive heat. If you find that it's screaming hot, it could indicate slippage that isn't noticed easily by eye or ear. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sdwyer41 8 #32 Posted September 27, 2013 Then that's what I'll do. Thank you. Can't wait for the part to get here, I want to see what this thing will do when it's working properly. I don't know if it's the way the cut grass lays from the RD deck, or what, but I have never saw a smoother cut by a mower with 3 blades. It looks like the grass was cut by just one blade. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sdwyer41 8 #33 Posted October 1, 2013 Well, I got the new clutch plate. Took the old one off, it still had a lot of meat on it. But it was so glazed that it looked like metal. It was so shiny it reflected light. I will try to grind the glaze off later. The new one works great, got it adjusted, it works like a charm, I hit high heavy grass the mower deck sound doesn't change, but the sound from the engine sure does. It cuts like a beast. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fordiesel69 188 #34 Posted October 1, 2013 Very nice deal. Looks to be in very good shape with no rust. Keep the engine oil changed every 25 hrs max and it will last a lifetime. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,195 #35 Posted October 1, 2013 Glad it's working good! I will try to grind the glaze off later Without knowing what materials were used in that lining back in the day, I would probably advise against any grinding of it. Might have some of the "A" word in it.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sdwyer41 8 #36 Posted October 1, 2013 Yeah, didn't think of that. It's quite possible. Oil change and flush in one week. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites