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zanepetty

leaky rearend pulley

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That TORO dealer has no clue on how to do a 5025 transmission.  Don't you let him touch it!!!  They come apart easy and go back together easier.  Time for us to ask you some questions. :)  Tools...got a 9/16 box end wrench and an assortment of sockets and a ratchet?  Do you have a razor knife?  Do you have a scraper?  Do you have some punches and a ball peen hammer?  How about some hand cleaner and some rags or paper towels?  Sorry...I got to ask this...how old are you?  Just curious. :)  If you decide to tackle this, and I think you should, we all will help walk you through the process.  Check out these threads and watch the videos... :eusa-think:

 

 

This thread show tons of pictures and is the same transmission that you have.

 

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Think I would find another dealer. 

 

If you have the hubs off you are 2/3 the way home.  Is pin that holds the hitch on free...move side to side and/or twist it?

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:text-goodpost:   The toughest task when pulling apart a :wh:  trans. seems to be removing the hubs that your rear wheels bolt onto. Whatever you do, don't try to hammer them off; either you will bust them or the lock ring retainer on the inside will break, both are bad things! :text-lol: 

 

At the rear of your trans. you will have a 3/4" pin that goes through the two halves of the trans. and attaches your trailer hitch and/or slot hitch, remove the lock rings and drive it out with a punch ( this you can hit!)

 

Once you have watched the vidios anr read a few postings on this site you should have no problem doing the job.

 

Let us know how you are doing.

 

:USA: 

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If you get that hitch pin out...you are home free.  The hardest part is done.  Run the seam with a razor knife between the 2 halves after you take out the bolts...make sure you have the shallow side of the trans down and the shifter out...you are just cutting the paint...find a good edge between the castings and use a good sharp chisel or scraper to break loose the trans halves...separate evenly...use a pry bar or two at different spots...the factory did not use gasket sealer, and we will not use it to put it back together, you can pry it up easily after that.  Did I say that it is a great idea to file the ends of all shafts...ie...file all burrs...so there is no hold up pulling the two halves of the trans apart??  Use your hand to feel the ends of the shafts for high parts or burrs...file them smooth first before trying to take the trans half apart.  :) It is soft metal and does not take much, but worth the time when you put it back together....plus saving seals.

Edited by stevasaurus
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OK. I'll do that. I was VERY down when I found out the seals weren't my problem but you've convinced me I can do it! Like I said I'll tear into it tomorrow afternoon and I'll give you a call when I go to the barn Mr. Steve.will the new bearings also take care of the in/out motion of the axle?

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No, new bearings will not take care of in and out...just up and down and side to side.  In and out play to about 1/8" or a little more is normal...you will see why when you take it apart.  Just relax for a bit, watch the sun go down and call me tomorrow. :)  Talk with your horse, give it a carrot and a lump of sugar...this is out patient surgery.  It will be OK.

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If you haven't already done so, don't forget to drain the transmission oil before attempting to open her up.

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This is actually very close to how I installed my seals. But unfortunately I do have a little bit of up and down motion. So I guess I'll need to open it up. I've never done something like this so I don't know if its a job I can do or one I should try to get a toro dealer to do..?

 

 

Don't worry - ( don't listen to that Toro dealer either ) Steve and these guys will get you through this - I rebuilt an 8 speed earlier this year and knew  zero about doing a trans ...I was afraid of not getting it back together as well....these guys won't steer you wrong .

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I've read a lot of posts that these guys have written and they are SHARP. I'm just glad they're around!

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Zane, it was a pleasure talking with you today.  Here are the numbers for what you are going to fix at the moment...if you do not find anything else worn.

 

Transmission gasket...from TORO...WH # 3912...about $6.00

Outer axle bearings (2)...from Motion Industries...torrington # B-1616...just over $6.00 apiece

Axle seals (2) and brake shaft seal (1)...from Motion Industries...SKF 9815...just under $3.00 each

Input shaft seal (1)...from Motion Industries...SKF 7410...about $3.50

 

A neat trick for when you put the transmission back on to the frame of the tractor. Take (2)  3/8" x 2" hex head bolts and cut the heads off.  Hand screw them in to the transmission mounting holes...bottom on one side and top on the other.  Use this to line up the transmission on to the frame...(as studs).  Start and snug up the other 2 bolts...remove the studs and place the two bolts that are left.  This makes mounting the transmission back on the frame a piece of cake. :)  You can use one of your rear wheels to hold the trans while working on it if you want.

 

2012_0903blower0001_zps789c2112.jpg[/url

 

]702transmission002-1.jpg

Edited by stevasaurus

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It was a pleasure talking to you as well, steve! Looks like my axles are not the same diameter all the way out. They have wear on them:(

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It depends where and how much wear you have.  Is it worn where the outer bearing sits...grooves???  How about where the seal would be??  A little may be OK, once you replace those bad outer bearings.  Are there any grooves in the axles where that outer bearing sits??

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Well the wear is just a bit behind the key way slot and im pretty sure that where the seals would be its OK. But I'll have to double check. I want to do it right. Maybe loose hubs may have caused it?

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They sound like they would be OK if there are no grooves.  Those axles are 60 years old...a little wear is to be expected...and the the seal will still work with the new axle bearings.  Your Photobucket link is not working...try copy and pasting with the IMG code under your pictures that you are trying to post. :)  Yes, absolutely , want to do it right while you have it apart.  What do you think...glad you did not let the TORO guy do it??? :bow-blue:

Edited by stevasaurus

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HAHA YES!! SO GLAD! I just don't see and image code at all. I don't know what my problem is with this darn thing.

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HAHA YES!! SO GLAD! I just don't see and image code at all. I don't know what my problem is with this darn thing.

 

 

Zane  - if you can get your pics on your computer desktop/my pictures  use this link - it has a drop down list for resize - pick forums ( you'll need to do a capatcha code on upload ) upload them from your computer desktop to tiny -pic - a list of links will appear after it uploads,  copy and past the forum IMG code link right to your reply page here ....

 

Much easier than photo bucket

 

 

http://tinypic.com/

Edited by Golds-Red

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here is all the numbers for the bearings and seals for your #5025 transmission.

 

Here is a list of the bearing and seal numbers...This works for 5007, 5025, 5046, 5048, 5049, 5033 3 speed uni-drives.

Description.....................................WH #...................Vender #..................Quantity.......size

in side axle...ball...........................1533.......................n/a...........................2................1 1/2" ID
out side axle...needle....................1528......................B-1616.....................2................1' x 1 1/4" x 1"
input shaft...needle........................1508......................B-1212.....................2................3/4" x 15/16" x 3/4"
11/44 gear base...needle...cap......1532......................M-16121..................1.................1" x 1 1/4" x 3/4"
brake shaft top end...needle..........1530......................B-1612.....................1.................1" x 1 1/4" x 3/4"
cluster gear shaft...needle...cap....1529......................M-12121...................2................3/4" x 15/16" x 3/4"
input spline shaft...needle...cap.....1531......................M-10121...................1................5/8" x 7/8" x 3/4"
inside input gear shaft...needle......1518.....................B-108........................1................5/8" x 15/16" x 1/2"

input gear seal...............................1303.....................skf-7410....................1
axle & brake shaft seals................1232.....................skf-9815...................3

Edited by stevasaurus

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OK cool. And those are for motor industries?

 

 

Motion Industries

 

Here are the locations in Tennessee

 

http://www.motionindustries.com/motion3/jsp/mii/LocationsMI.jsp

 

 

The numbers to the left ( most are 15_ _ ) are the Toro/Wheelhorse part #'s  the ones  on the right are the Koyo Torrington   part  #'s

 

Toro parts are way more expensive for the bearings and seals you need - I didn't buy mine through Motion but I did go with the Torringtons by putting a one time big over $25 " FREE " shipping order on Amazon .

 

The 1533 bearing at the top isn't  available through anyone ( they're no longer made ) however I did read some posts here where a few guys may have some  if you find a bad one - even if your 1533's are good ...while your in there clean any rust or blemishes off of them and flush them good to get all the dirt and metal particles out - I used brake cleaner from the auto parts store -

 

 

From Steves earlier post - numbers you need for motion

 

Transmission gasket...from TORO...WH # 3912...about $6.00

Outer axle bearings (2)...from Motion Industries...torrington # B-1616...just over $6.00 apiece

Axle seals (2) and brake shaft seal (1)...from Motion Industries...SKF 9815...just under $3.00 each

Input shaft seal (1)...from Motion Industries...SKF 7410...about $3.50

 

 

 

Bryan

Edited by Golds-Red

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