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zanepetty

leaky rearend pulley

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zanepetty

I've had my wheel horse 753 for about a week now and hasn't leaked a drop of anything. Previous owner said it didn't leak for him either. I walked to the garage today and noticed a couple of drops under the rear end!:( they came from the pulley on the left side. Any advice on how to fix this? Thanks

Zane

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zanepetty

I don't know the correct term for it but its the brake pulley.

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rmaynard

Remove the brake drum and replace the oil seal. Toro part number 100863 or NAPA NOS9815.

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zanepetty

Awesome. I'm going to probably do the axle seals too. I've never done that before on anything. Is it really hard to do?

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Wishin4a416

 

Awesome. I'm going to probably do the axle seals too. I've never done that before on anything. Is it really hard to do?

Changing the seals is easy. Pulling the hubs to do so can be tough.

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zanepetty

OK good. Thanks. Is it OK to use a hammer if I HAVE to?

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Jeff-C175

Hi Zane,  in your first message you said no leaks except around the brake drum shaft?

 

Axle seals aren't leaking?  Why change them?

 

Use a hammer on what?  Rear hubs?  ummmm, NO, not unless you want to be buying new hubs.

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rmaynard

Use a hammer on what?  Rear hubs?  ummmm, NO, not unless you want to be buying new hubs.

and possibly knock the C clip off the end of the axle on the inside of the transmission, making it necessary to open the transmission.

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zanepetty

OK good to know. My friend said it was fine. I didn't think so. The right axle seal looks wet. There's not a drop running down it but I just thought it might b a good idea while I'm at it. Maybe not?

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Jeff-C175

I dunno... for just a little bit of 'seepage' like that, I don't think I would bother... I guess it depends on how 'AR' you are!  :ychain:  and how much ambition you have!

 

I personally would probably 'shake er down' for a few months and see how it goes, then make a list of stuff you want to do with it and set up a 'priority list' of what NEEDS to be done, and what you WANT to do.

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zanepetty

Strangest thing. I moved and and let it sit all day and not one drop of oil is under it in the new spot..oh well I guess she fixed herself!:D

And yes I do agree with "shaking her down" for a bit. Thanks guys. Im new so I have a lot to learn.

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pfrederi

Strangest thing. I moved and and let it sit all day and not one drop of oil is under it in the new spot..oh well I guess she fixed herself! :D

And yes I do agree with "shaking her down" for a bit. Thanks guys. Im new so I have a lot to learn.

 

 

Or she is low on oil...

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stevasaurus

If you do decide to change out the axles seals...they are the same numbers as the brake shaft seal.  If you need to add oil, use 90wt. :)

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zanepetty

No. I don't believe so. There were only three little drops under it and I just changed the oil 2 days before. I added 1 1/2 quarts of 80-90 wt oil. I plan to run it for a bit then flush it and put new in just to get things cleaned out well. And thank you for the part numbers. That's a big help. I'm going to my toro dealer today:)

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zanepetty

What's the best way to get a stubborn hub off guys?

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rmaynard

In as few words as possible, heat, PB Blaster, and a good hub puller. No hammers. Lots of patience. Do a search for "hub removal".

 

Good luck. It can be done.  :)

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zanepetty

Great I got it. Now how do I remove the old seal??

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CasualObserver

A pick and maybe a pair of needlenose pliers.  If you do a search for the words axle seal replacement you'll get several topics that might help you out on this... and your next question that you haven't asked yet...about how to seat the new ones. :ychain:

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zanepetty

OK so I found out how to smooth up and clean up the axle before I put the seal in. Is that what you mean by seating?

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zanepetty

I tapped the seal all the way in (which was a little more than flush) and it STILL leaks just the same if not more than before. PLEASE HELP!:(((

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rmaynard

Do you have up and down movement on the axle? In and out movement of about 1/8" is normal, but any movement front to back or up and down is an indication that the bearings are shot. If this is the case, new seals will do nothing to stop the leakage, and the transmission has to be opened up to replace the bearings.

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Lagersolut

For what it's worth I'll add my .02 on installing seals - I found over the years,  this overall easy procedure to be very tricky - one little missed burr - going over the key slot etc and your seal will nick and leak  - I've installed some 2 -3 times before I got it ....

 

My  personal seal install procedure :

 

1) Clean all burrs off axle or shaft

 

2) Tape key-way slot - ( key-ways will cut/nick seals ) I use a small piece of electric tape

 

3) I then wrap shaft with a small amount of plastic wrap  from the kitchen being careful not to wrap where the seal seats ( getting the wrap out from under the seal seated is not fun ) - this is my insurance in case I missed a bur .

 

4) I use 3 in 1 oil to wet the outside of plastic wrap

 

5) Same 3 in 1 oil on seal itself where it meets axle/shaft

 

6) Gently and evenly  push seal on shaft to case- larger seals I gently seat with the appropriate size black iron pipe ( nipple ) with end cap on tapping end and gently ( very important to drive seal in level and even )  tap seal in with my 8-10 oz  ball pien hammer

 

 

Over the years I've taken seals to lowe's and matched them up with the appropriate size pipe nipple for driving, think I have 5 or 6 pieces in the tool box, some smaller ones ( seals ) couldn't find a nipple that would work - these were installed with the widest punch in my box going around the seal and slowly/gently  tapping it in in until it seats .

 

 

For whatever reason, maybe it's just luck - I find the 3 in 1 oil best for installing seals - knock on wood I haven't had a leaker since I started using it .

 

 

Hope this helps -  I never drive seals " dry "

'

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zanepetty

This is actually very close to how I installed my seals. But unfortunately I do have a little bit of up and down motion. So I guess I'll need to open it up. I've never done something like this so I don't know if its a job I can do or one I should try to get a toro dealer to do..?

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CasualObserver

If you know how to turn a ratchet and wrench, you can do it! Watch stevasaurus' how to videos pinned at the top in the trans forum

Via Tapatalk 4

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zanepetty

I just hung up with a toro dealer and he said that the case had to be pressed and they're really hard to get opened and to be pressed he said they had to be heated and stuff:( he also told me most of the gears would have to come out so it really scared me. Is this true?

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