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kudzu3

B 80 Transaxle

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I think you should replace any bearings that are suspect...only a few $....I would not trust putting back in the needles in one of these bearings.  Motion Industries has all the bearings...except the #1533 ball bearings that carry the differential.  Do you need the numbers for the bearings???  If you let me know which bearings are bad, I can give you an idea on the cost.  As far as that shim, check out the link to this thread that shows where the thrust washer would go...this is a great thread for 8 speeds.  Let me see if I can get a response from racinfool40 (Mike)...he would know for sure.  You are through the hard part...piece of cake to put it back together.  Sure would like to see some pictures... :)

 

Edited by stevasaurus
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If it is a small shim it goes on the input shaft in between the case and the shaft on the input pulley side of the trans....5/8ths hole diameter shim.....if it is a bigger diameter shim then it goes on the 11-44 tooth gear that turns the differential on the shallow side of the trans also..in between the case and the gear...

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The shim probably goes on the brake shaft between the bigger gear and the case.  Needle bearings are relatively cheap I wouldn't try to reuse it.

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Hey Steve:  This is a great set of transmission "How to's"!   You again are doing all of us a service.    One question I had.   Where KUDZU had the crack, break in the axle near the woodruff key slot there might be some other fixes.    One, couldn't you just have a new slot for a woodruff key machined into the axle on the other side and two, what about using J.B. Weld on the crack and sanding down the ridges or burrs?  

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Yes sir Steve, I agree, I need to replace the bad bearings, I do need the #s to order. All other bearings seem fine. You're right, the hard part is over, after I get new bearings, I'll replace all seals, new bearings and with the help of your excellent video, stick it all back together and hopefully, it'll work. I'm sending a pic to your e-mail, thanks.

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The bearing is SKF # M-16121...1" ID cap bearing for the base of the 11/44 tooth gear...about $6.  Remove the old bearing by tapping the bearing out from the inside either with a large punch (the back side cap is part of the bearing housing), or try a 1/2" drive socket with a short extension that just fits inside the hole.  :)  I had trouble loading your picture from my e-mail into here.  Is this the only bearing number you need?

 

BTW...the drawing for your trans in the manual, does show the thruster washer going at the base of the 11/44 gear....on top of this bearing you are going to replace.  Check it out. :eusa-think:

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Thanks Steve. I'll get the bearing ordered tomorrow, yes I believe that all the other bearings are in good condition. I didn't see the washer in my manual but it has been copied so much that it is not real clear, I'll check again. I really appreciate your help.

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Well, after re-checking the manual...Steve, you're right again, the washer is right there plain as day, I'll have my glasses checked soon. Racinfool, you mention a small shim on the input shaft between the case and the shaft, if there's not one there, should I put one in? I got the damaged.bearing ordered from motion industries and am waiting for a call to go get it. 1/4 inch stainless ball bearings are a booger to find! They were suggested to replace the bearings in the shift fork shaft...will regular bearings work? They're telling me that they are harder than stainless and should be better((???).

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Yes...those ball bearings will work.  :)

 

If there was no shim there (input shaft), then do not add one.

Edited by stevasaurus

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Phew! Finally got this thing together...almost. Placing the parts in the case was fairly easy, thanks to Steve's excellent video. When putting the case sides together, I couldn't get them to make contact, there was about 1/4 inch (or less) between the two. I worked patiently and gently for a long while and couldn't get them to get together. I took it apart several times, checking for something not lined up or out of place, everything seemed fine. Well, my patience completely wore out! I grabbed a rubber mallet and smacked the stuffin' out of it and it fell together perfectly. Is this the way it is supposed to be done? When putting the axle in, the seals were pushed out, it just wouldn't go through with those seals in there. I was ably to put one back in without a problem but the other got a little bent in the process, so I won't bother with it, I'll just get a new one. I'm thinking the seals should be placed after the axle is in place (not the way I did it), is that right? I kinda wanted to paint it before I put it together as was recommended, but the weather was bad so I'll paint later. Taking this thing apart, troubleshooting, repairing and cleaning wasn't too difficult, but it was very time consuming and I spent more than I had hoped ( I am on a limited budget)and I still don't know if it'll work when I'm all finished. If I ever get another wheel horse, I'll be sure that the engine and transaxle are in good shape before money changes hands.

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That last 1/4" is kind of usual of the way things go...probably just the little nubbies that line up the transmission halves.  Sometimes just a wiggle will get the job done...I have had to gently tap them also.  The seals can go in either before or after...after is probably easier.  :)

 

It is a good idea to bench test your trans before you put it back on the horse.  Put on the input pulley, and either replace the shifter or use a large screwdriver to go through the gears.  Turn the input shaft counter-clockwise while watching the axles and brake shaft turn.  All should shift and move rather easily.  Also, while in neutral, grab the axles and turn them...one should go in the opposite direction.  If all is smooth and in order...you should be good to go.  Congratulations Tom :woohoo:   You have to admit...the job is really not that hard, and very satisfying to take apart and fix your own transmission. :)

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Checked everything as you suggested Steve, somehow, I got it right :eek: . Yea, I guess it is somewhat satisfying to do it yourself, but it may have been more satisfying if I hadn't had to do it :laughing-rofl:  .  One more question, I can't find any torque specs on the case bolts, are there any? I torqued them to 20, is that okay? Thanks again for all the good advice :bow-blue: .

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20 ft/lbs should work good...I just usually try to tighten them all the same...probably is about 20 ft/lbs.  You are welcome Tom, it was a pleasure.  :)  It should last another 40 to 50 years.

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