18 Automatic "Hip" surgery

[Factory Dog 44]

     Thanks Mark!  Your friend did an exceptional job on those fenders.  I am really anxious to see then finished modifications.  We brought my 18 Automatic home yesterday, and she is sitting out in my garage.  I hope to get a little time today to diagnose why she is free-wheeling.  My sweetie says we need to get going for church, so I got to go, might check back in tonight. Everyone have a great day!

 

Sincerely,

KES

[pacer 3,159]

TOO cool Mark!!

 

What method did you use to trim off the fenders? Obviously that is a straight line! - which is necessary to get that beautiful weld. I manage to wander all over the place when I try something like that.

["D"- Man 827]

TOO cool Mark!!

 

What method did you use to trim off the fenders? Obviously that is a straight line! - which is necessary to get that beautiful weld. I manage to wander all over the place when I try something like that.

Thanks Pacer, I did not do the trim work on the fenders, but took them to a friend of mine that does welding and bodywork, and he did the trim, the weld and the bodywork.  I never asked him what he used to remove the edges in such a straight line, however; I will say when I done the cuts on the 4 footrests I just clamped a piece of heavy duty angle iron to each section one at a time and used a Rotozip angle grinder with the Diamond metal cutting disc, then I just filed it and finally sanded it till it mated up to the piece it was to be welded too.  I have not received the footrests back from the welder yet.  I do know when a weld is done on metal as thin as the fenders you have to do a spot here, one over there, one back here and so on till it is complete in order to not warp the metal.

[857 horse 2,581]

I DONT EVEN KNOW WHAT TURNING BRAKES ARE,,,,,,

 

( shaking my head )

["D"- Man 827]

I DONT EVEN KNOW WHAT TURNING BRAKES ARE,,,,,,

 

( shaking my head )

Howard, if you go to the manuals section and search

"Tractor 1973 Auto 18hp Auto Brakes Disc 8-1901 #814.pdf" you will be able to get an idea of how these work; essentially a separate left and right brake per rear axle. see also pics of the set on my D-180, Mark.

 

P.S. There are also some posts in the Restorations section with much better pics and detail, of an 18 Auto and a D-200 w/ T-brakes.

[857 horse 2,581]

NOW I SEE.....

LOOKS LIKE DISC BRAKES ON A CAR....

NEVER KNEW !!!!!!!!

THANK-YOU!

IM GOING INTO MANUALS AND FIND OUT A LITTLE MORE...

["D"- Man 827]

"I also may try to use a section of footrest from the parts tractor to sort of fill the void between the extra mounting holes (those on the outside) and the original footrest. Still trying to work out a design that comes close to looking factory."  

 

Just a slight bit of an update to sorting out the widened footrest design. What I decided to do is cut opposing edges off the two footrests from the tractor I am restoring and the two from my parts tractor.  This approach seemed like the only logical design to accomplish a "factory" look.  When the cuts were completed on the two pieces for the left footrest I test fitted them only to discover that the piece of angle I had clamped to one as a guide for my cut had been misaligned and about a 1/8" gap was present for the length of a few inches.  On the two cuts for the right footrest the surfaces were filed to fit without any issues.  So now I have turned these over to the welder, but was told it may be awhile before he can fit these into his schedule.  I only took one picture of the left side with the pieces in place.  Since I have purchased all of the parts that I needed for turning brakes* {most of which are new old stock} I am planning on adding this option to the tractor.  This requires that the middle of the front of the right footrest will have to remain open, so consequently I will also leave the middle of the front of the left footrest open just for the sake of keeping things symmetrical. 

 

*A couple of the rods and the disc's are not included in the picture as these were still on the parts tractor when this pic was taken.

Finally received the extra wide foot rests back from the welder.  Just wanted to shoot a couple pics so I could give a little update on the progress of the resto/mod.  These are top and bottom of the right footrest after weld and grinding.  Looks like I need to get busy and have a go at cleaning, some bodywork, primering and painting {I also will have to get some extra wide rubber mat and trim to fit.}. I only took pics of the right side but both footrests are now welded and ground.  I know I will probably need greater support under these wider footrests and am still needing to sort out what may prove to be best, considering the need to accommodate for the turning brake rod clearance.

Edited March 26, 2015 by 23 Automatic LSE

["D"- Man 827]

I cleaned up the areas on the topsides of the two footrests and had a go at spreading on a layer of body filler. Next I sanded the areas and found two high spots and some low spots. Two of the low spots were right at the "bends." So consequently, I had to apply a little more filler, and give the high spots a couple of taps with my hammer. Next I sanded each one and sprayed 2 coats of primer.

Edited April 10, 2015 by 23 Automatic LSE

[Sparky-(Admin) 19,528]

Real nice work!

Any full pics of the whole tractor....or are you waiting to make a grand showing..  ..?

Mike..........

[19richie66 16,928]

Very nice looking

[duke 49]

Excellent work! Your giving me some inspiration on this one! Did you upgrade the pinion bolts on the hydro transmission?

["D"- Man 827]

Thanks for your kind compliments gentlemen, at this time I do not have any pics of the whole tractor.  This is partly due to me not having restored the pieces in order of the reassembly, and consequently not even having all the parts restored {or even having all the parts to restore for that matter.}. I was able to get the left side extra-wide footrest sprayed with one coat of color.  The  area where the rubber mat is to be placed turned out near perfect, even though it didn't necessarily have to, as it will not be seen, but; the front (upper) area could still use a little sanding before the next coat of color.  I have not yet upgraded to the bigger pinion bolts for the bull gear and covers, but I have that in the plan.

 

You may click on image to enlarge.

Edited April 12, 2015 by 23 Automatic LSE

["D"- Man 827]

Sprayed the right extra wide footrest with a color coat, will let dry and give it another coat.

[duke 49]

 

Can I have those? Ha,ha,ha! I wish! Excellent work!

[bmsgaffer 2,043]

I am very much looking forward to seeing this whole machine!

["D"- Man 827]

Can I have those? Ha,ha,ha! I wish! Excellent work!

I am very much looking forward to seeing this whole machine!

No, sorry Duke these are keepers.

Brandon, thanks. I am looking forward to seeing this complete myself, I can hardly wait. I am going to get the steering bell crank back this weekend, I had to have an extension welded onto it and I will need to add a zirk fitting then it will be ready for paint.

Edited April 17, 2015 by 23 Automatic LSE

["D"- Man 827]

I received the extended steering bell crank back from my welder, and ground down some of the weld just to make it look a little more presentable . I sprayed a couple coats of paint on and it turned out OK. I still need to have a couple bushings cut and welded together, but I am waiting for the N.O.S. one to come in the post.

Click on image to enlarge.

Edited April 21, 2015 by 23 Automatic LSE

[857 horse 2,581]

23 automatic,,,,,it looks like a new part.....

 

great work !!!!

[duke 49]

 

Why the extra height on the Bell Crank? Will you be parting out the PTO on this tractor or just saving them?

["D"- Man 827]

That's an ancient Chinese secret!!! No, seriously the tie-rod ends that were on this tractor {as well as those from my parts tractor} were worn beyond use, so I decided that since this is a resto-mod I will need to reassemble with new larger/taller tie-rod ends. This consequently not only required the extra height on the bell crank; but, the tie-rods will have to be drilled and retapped. The new tie-rod ends I am using are intended for a Volkswagon so not only will this mean a metric tap, but it requires one to be right threaded and one to be left threaded. From the mock-up I assembled, I determined that both the tie-rods and the drag-link will need to be shortened. No pictures yet as this is as far as I have proceeded.

I do plan on including a fully functioning P.T.O.

Edited April 22, 2015 by 23 Automatic LSE

[duke 49]

Now I can see that and the larger tie rods would be stronger too, however the Bell Crank is still a weak point but not to worry it will all work out for the better! Going to be a Super Tractor for sure!

[Factory Dog 44]

The footrests turned out very nice, I look forward to seeing some more picks as she comes together!!! 

["D"- Man 827]

The footrests turned out very nice, I look forward to seeing some more picks as she comes together!!!

I think the extra width on the footrests may need as much additional support as I can give them, so instead of just using the factory filler plates {that are only intended to fill in the void in the bend area} I cut some peices out of a scrap footrest and made a thicker filler plate. I am hoping this will provide a little stronger joint. Oh I also am placing these on the outside. Why? Well have a look, yep I polished them up to nearly a chrome like finish, Mark.