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rustyoldjunk

HH100 on a raider 10 frame

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rustyoldjunk

i have a raider 10 frame that has set outside for years.there is no rearend,hood,belt guard etc.it has the front axle,steering,dash tower and wiring. im debating on putting it back to a running tractor,i have most everything i need minus,hood,belt guard,and a small misc.items.is the HH100 worth rebuilding? (it would need completely gone thru).or should i just put a kohler on it? is it rare enough to worry about keeping it original? i probably wont start this project for a few months but im tossing around where to go with it.

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TT

The only rarity to a Raider 10 with a Tecumseh engine is if it's still running after 28 or 29 years. B) Finding overhaul parts is possible, but tougher and more expensive than a comparable Kohler. If you're lucky, the Solid State ignition will still function, but if not, you'll need to take a second mortgage out on your house to buy the components. (IF you can find them, that is.)

I have a running '70 here now plus a spare engine for the same, and have owned two '69 Raider 10's in the past. I have had good luck with all of them, but if given the choice, I usually pass on them unless they are very cheap.

If you'd happen to have the rare gene that makes you love Tecumseh engines, then - by all means - restore the tractor. :whistle:

Otherwise, put a Kohler on it if you have to, and run it like you're mad at it! :horseplay:

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Drydock

I will admit: I like Tecumsehs. Frankly, You could get a new HM-10 and bolt it right on, Tecumsehs about the only folks left still making "Big" flatheads. (8-10 horse) Good ones too, IMHO.

Howsumever: Now, if this was a single "H" engine, its probably not worth it. However, you indicate its an "HH". HH designates the heavy duty Iron block, and is VERY rebuildable, and rugged as heck. Use a heavy duty rod and you've got something near indestructable, again IMHO. THe weakness in old Tecs has always been finicky carbs and relativly weak rods. They're fine if you run with the govenor, but disconnect the govenor, as many pullers do, and it won't take much overrevving. Get a good high performance rod and forget about it. (DARE Motorsports)

www.smallenginewarehouse .com also has very good prices, but are more hit and miss.

Never had any problem finding parts either, no more expensive than B&S, cheaper than Kohler. Though you do have to look harder. My H60 was still running after 40 years, pulled it to rebore the valve guides.

Drydock (What has an H60 Tec on the workbench, and a new HM-80 in the 66 Lawn Ranger.)

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