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Hodge71

16 Kohler questions

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Hodge71

Ok guys. Just purchased a C-160 that seems to run pretty great. Im going to tear the carb down and clean it good when I pick her up next week,new fuel shut off and oil but theres some things I was hoping you could help me with.

 

First off.... The engine runs great and has no leaks, no blue smoke or anything. Should I tear off the head when I get it to check valves, carbon etc? I only ask because she seems to bind a bit like there may be a timing issue or maybe compression release issue or valves? I will post a vid of that next week for all to see and help diagnose further. I can tell you that it fires right up after the bind thing happens maybe twice. After that It runs sweet, idles great and sounds good too, no misses or anything.

 

Number 2 is the Nelson Muffler. Its in excellent shape on the outside but the baffles are loose inside. I would like to cut it apart and replace the baffles and with new perforated metal, pack it with fiberglass in an effort to quiet it a bit and then reweld it. Has anyone done this to save a great muffler or am I wasting my time?

 

Number 3 is it sounds like the PTO bearings are on their way out. Is there a way to test them or lube them? They make a little noise when the PTO is spun and the engine is off but I there is no noticeable drag on them and the PTO spins for quite some time before coasting to a stop. Also regarding the PTO, the guy I bought it from gave me an electric clutch for it that he got from the guy he bought the tractor from 2 years ago. It has the factory wiring and also the switch in the dash for the electric clutch. Were these an option or did someone put a 1973 dash in it like is on my Dads 12 auto with the electric clutch writing on it? If the electric clutch is working normally should I change it (I love the electric clutch machines for some reason) back over or leave the manual PTO on it remove the switch and plug the hole in the dash?  

 

I think thats all for now. If I think of more I will post further down in this thread. Thanks for the help with these.....

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Callen

I would clean all your connections on the starter and battery and put a good charge in the battery and see how it cranks.

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Hodge71

Thanks Callen,

 

The battery thats in it is supposed to be new but its way too small to fit in the battery box correctly, and its stamped SECOND in the top of it. I'm thinking thats a good part of the problem.  

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rmaynard

As to the muffler, I would not pack it. The Nelson as deigned to be a free-flow type, and anything other than the baffles that were designed for it will cause excess back pressure.

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Hodge71

Any Idea on what would be a suitable fix then for the Nelson? What if I just cut it apart and replace or reweld the internal baffles that are now rattling around. Its a shame to replace a muffler that is perfect on the outside but clapped out on the inside and rattling a lot. I see Parts Tree claims to have a replacement nelson but for $180 to me its not an option. I despise pepper pots and that type of smallmuffler and don't think I could adapt a Gravely due to inlet/outlet locations. A stack isn't on my list either, I did it on my 18 Auto but this will be as close to factory as I can get.   

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littleredrider

Crack it open and see if can be fixed. I can't see why couldn't be welded and put back to use....

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Martin

Any Idea on what would be a suitable fix then for the Nelson? What if I just cut it apart and replace or reweld the internal baffles that are now rattling around. Its a shame to replace a muffler that is perfect on the outside but clapped out on the inside and rattling a lot. I see Parts Tree claims to have a replacement nelson but for $180 to me its not an option. I despise pepper pots and that type of smallmuffler and don't think I could adapt a Gravely due to inlet/outlet locations. A stack isn't on my list either, I did it on my 18 Auto but this will be as close to factory as I can get.   

 

I fixed my c160 nelson muffler, if you can weld and have basic metal skills they can be saved.

 

this is how mine looked when i got the tractor....

 

IMG_1035.jpg

 

the inlet was loose and the end of the inlet that is perforated inside the muffler was rusted through and loose inside, making a lot of noise. I cut out the inlet and opened the hole where it fits through a little so i could get in there easier. i found a piece of exhaust pipe the same diameter and length as the inlet, drilled a bunch of 1/4" holes all around the circumference of the part of the pipe that fits inside the muffler, blocked off the inside end like the loose piece i removed, slotted the ends to accept the manifold pipe from the engine. then set it in place and welded the inlet. 

it helped that i bead blasted the area i was working onto help weld all around the inlet without blowing out the end of the muffler too much. heres a pic of the finished product, the welding doesnt look as neat as i would have liked, but that end piece was really thin and i had a bunch of trouble getting all the holes filled. if i had to do it again i probably would just cut out the whole end of the muffler, leaving the crimped end in place and just weld to that. i thought it was worth a try to fix and im happy it turned out ok.....

 

post-4321-0-18557000-1374420309_thumb.jp

 

best part is the tractor is quiet again, no loud exhaust OR rattling sounds........

 

im not sure if you will have the same scenario with yours, but its worth a try...... i actually put mine away for awhile and ran a pepper pot, until i had some time to spend on it and fix it properly. things like this i have to work on when im in the mood, otherwise they tend to end up all screwed up and thrown in the garbage!!!!!

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Hodge71

Martin, Thanks for the pics and process. I myself thought about cutting it at the crimp and welding to that. I hope it turns out ok. Hopefully by next weekend I will know. Now I hope I get some info from some others on the electric clutch as the #1 and #2 issues seem to have ideas for solution

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Martin

if it was me, and the electric clutch worked fine i would be using that.....

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gwgdog66

The old K series like the bigger batteries also.

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Hodge71

Thanks Gary, 

 

My Dad has a 12 auto and its got the bigger battery. I'm going to get a number off it and buy the proper replacement for the 160.

 

Martin,

 

When I get her home I'm going to figure out how to test it and make sure its ok and then put it on. Its the first post 73 tractor that I have ever seen with a factory electric clutch. Well at least it appears to be factory being that it has the wiring and switch. I just hope the clutch is ok. I can only think its bad though, why else would someone take it off? 

Edited by hodge71

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Electro12WH

I have a k341 that I rebuilt. It wouldn't crank over and I thought I had a comp release issue. Turns out the exhaust valve lifter clearance wasn't set right.

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Martin

Thanks Gary, 

 

My Dad has a 12 auto and its got the bigger battery. I'm going to get a number off it and buy the proper replacement for the 160.

 

Martin,

 

When I get her home I'm going to figure out how to test it and make sure its ok and then put it on. Its the first post 73 tractor that I have ever seen with a factory electric clutch. Well at least it appears to be factory being that it has the wiring and switch. I just hope the clutch is ok. I can only think its bad though, why else would someone take it off? 

 

I saved a electric clutch that was on my cub 682. frozen solid, thought it was no good and was going to just throw it. said to myself, what have i got to loose by messing with it. managed to get the thing apart, cleaned up the machined surfaces that the magnet works with and hooked it up to a power source, and it works ok...... the insulation on the magnet windings is cracked real bad, but a guy from work told me to get some 'insulating paste' or gel that is used to paint exposed wiring.  i havent got any further with it and still need to get the coil insulation covered up..... its not a priority right now but it works and i saved a few bucks by spending some time on it. 

Edited by Martin

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Hodge71

 

Thanks Gary, 

 

My Dad has a 12 auto and its got the bigger battery. I'm going to get a number off it and buy the proper replacement for the 160.

 

Martin,

 

When I get her home I'm going to figure out how to test it and make sure its ok and then put it on. Its the first post 73 tractor that I have ever seen with a factory electric clutch. Well at least it appears to be factory being that it has the wiring and switch. I just hope the clutch is ok. I can only think its bad though, why else would someone take it off? 

 

I saved a electric clutch that was on my cub 682. frozen solid, thought it was no good and was going to just throw it. said to myself, what have i got to loose by messing with it. managed to get the thing apart, cleaned up the machined surfaces that the magnet works with and hooked it up to a power source, and it works ok...... the insulation on the magnet windings is cracked real bad, but a guy from work told me to get some 'insulating paste' or gel that is used to paint exposed wiring.  i havent got any further with it and still need to get the coil insulation covered up..... its not a priority right now but it works and i saved a few bucks by spending some time on it. 

 

Thats awesome!! Gives me hope Bud!!

Edited by hodge71

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