First Post - Just Got a Rear Engine Rider

[semperfi8185 56]

Hello

Just got an 87 rear engine rider.  looks like it is in pretty good shape but there is something wrong with the electrical system.

Thanks,

Greg

[Jake Kuhn 1,547]

[KATO 115]

WELCOME TO 

[ol550 825]

Another in the Show Me State.  

[groundhog47 347]

 You are in a great group here, up at top of page >>MANUALS<<, may find some info on your unit, might just be an interlock switch or module. Let the forum know what it's not doin, and go from there.

[wh500special 2,053]

Greg,  

 

Welcome!  I was hoping you'd show up here.  If you and "the boy" get into these little red tractors like the rest of us you'll be spending a lot of time on here and you'll love it.  Your wife...probably not so much.  

 

Anyway, for the rest of the RS clan, Greg and I work together.  So he's been putting up with my dissertations and rants about Wheel Horses for a while now.   

 

The 100 series RER's really haven't caught on with most collectors, but they were really an amazing little rider.  They have a very tight turn radius and reportedly mow quite well with their single bladed 30" deck.  My favorite feature is the storage bars on the back that let you stand the thing up into a corner of your garage in less space than a push mower.  

 

I used to own the tractor Greg has but never had time to mess with it.  The PO told me he was mowing with the thing before I bought it.  I brought it home, hooked up a battery, and nothin'.  I looked in the manuals section and didn't find one for this tractor, so if anybody has a copy of the owner's manual for this thing it should be easier to sort out what's wrong.  It could be something as simple as an ignition switch or way more complicated.  But there isn't a whole lot of wiring on this thing, so tracking it down is certainly in the cards.   

 

Funny thing is, the  guy I bought it from lives in the same neighborhood as Greg does.  Strange coincidence!

 

Anyway,

 

Steve

[VinsRJ 721]

[oldredrider 2,547]

The rear engine riders do indeed give a GREAT cut. The long blade has a very high tip speed.

The wiring diagram is in the Toro demystification guide, but the principles are the same as the tractors...Check and clean ALL connections, good battery etc.

The most common electrical problem I have found with this model is the "module" that is "flaky".

It controls the electrics for the safety switches and such. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.

Most often, it's the blue ground wire coming from the magneto into the module and out to the ignition switch. I've cured this problem by running the magneto kill wire directly to the ignition switch, bypassing the module completely.

Of course, you can invest in a new module too.

Hope this helps to get you going.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,482]

The only wiring diagram I see

 

Garry

[semperfi8185 56]

Wow

Thanks for all of the great replys everyone.  I can see how these little tractors can replace my urge to restore an old muscle car and have a lot more fun and save quite a lot of money.  Thanks again to Steve for recommending this site and the mower. 

 

First I have to say that I know very little about electrical systems.  I have hooked up a fully charged 12 volt battery (checked with a volt meter) and I get nothing with the key in any position this includes the battery volt meter doesn't appear to be working.  I have found two black wires running out of the front of the engine compartment (one wire appears to be black and orange) that were cut and attach to nothing,  I have also found an automotive style wire connector that has nothing plugged into it,  The wires running to the PTO, Seat Switch, Mower Deck and Parking brake appear to be there.  I'm cleaning up the mower to make it easier to see everything like wire color coding then I'll start running down and checking all of the wires.  I will take any advise given because I really don't know what I'm doing.

 

Thanks again.

Greg

[Kevbo 80]

Welcome to RedSquare! You will find that these are the nicest people you will ever meet...my brother has a rear engine rider and enjoys it nicely. Just check your pulleys to make sure they are not too rusty as my brother was going through a ton of belts until we discovered the problem.

[semperfi8185 56]

Update:

The automotive style connector is actually a fuse holder that was missing a 15 amp fuse.  Once I replaced the fuse the vplt meter started working.  Stll can't get anything to happen when I turn th key.  I tested the starter jumping it ant it is working.  Paul said that it might be the module acting flaky and to run the blue wire from the magneto from the engine to the ignition switch.  Here is the thing.  It appears that the blue wire from the magneto already goes to the ignition switch.  There is another blue wire that goes from the ignition switch to the module.  There is a tan wire back to the ignition switch.  An orange wire going from the module to the seat safety switches then to the ignition switch.  Finally a purple wire from the module to the transmission interlock switch to the solenoid.  Which wire do I jump to bypass the stuff I don't need to see if this machine will run.

Thanks,

Greg

[stevasaurus 22,229]

Welcome to Red Square...couldn't have a better guy then Steve from O'Fallon helping you out. Those other guys from Mo. are pretty good also.

[AMC RULES 36,941]

 

[semperfi8185 56]

Update:  Still not running.  Cut off wires go to missing seat safety switches and the other seat safety switch is broken.  Since the seat switches are open to close can I just take the black wire from the ignition switch to ground? 

[semperfi8185 56]

What I meant to say is that the seat safety switches are closed when there is no driver.  (Normally closed)  When the driver is on the seat the switches are open.

[oldredrider 2,547]

If you jump the tan wire at the switch to the purple terminal at the solenoid, that will take all safety switches out of the start circuit. If it still doesn't want to crank the engine, you have either 1) bad ignition switch, 2) bad solenoid, 3) bad ground at solenoid (black wire at other solenoid terminal) or 4) bad ground at ignition switch.

Testing the ignition switch with an OHM meter is simple; Off=G M A,  Run=B R A, Start=B S.

Test the solenoid by applying 12vdc to the trigger (purple wire terminal) and listen for a "click" or with ignition switch in "ON" position, should turn engine over.

As far as the black wire at the seat switch, yes, put it directly to ground.

We'll get you cranking over first then running next. The rear engine riders seem to have a propensity for rust/corrosion issues with the wiring so make sure all connections are REALLY clean and tight.

[semperfi8185 56]

Just an update.  The switch was bad.  The safety switches were bad,  The solenoid was bad.  I replaced the starter switch with a horn button and toggle kill switch.  Replaced the solenoid and by-passed the safeties and she starts and runs.  The down side is that she burns a lot of oil.  I have to put a good half quart in after running it for and hour to mow the lawn but what a great job it does.  Looks like a professional baseball outfield it is so smooth and even.

 

I am working on swapping the engine with a 12 hp B&S that has gone well except the pully is now a couple inches further back from the origina; position.  Everything still bolts together and even engine pully belt guide bolted right into place.  The roblem is I don't know how to replace the power and mower belts that attach to the engine shaft pullies.  Can anyone help me out here with good instructions or some type of pictures from a operators manual?

 

Thanks and Semper Fi!

[jbumgarner 12]

Wow

 I can see how these little tractors can replace my urge to restore an old muscle car and have a lot more fun and save quite a lot of money. 

When I got married I had a 64 Chevy II that I was restoring, before that I had a 68 short bed truck and loved old cars, but the price to restore was high.  Now I own 4 tractors and it does take away the urge to go by a new car to restore.  My wife is happy because tractors are a lot cheaper to restore and maintain than the cars.  Glad to have you hear and I always hear you can't just own one.

[wh500special 2,053]

Jeff,

 

I forgot you were in Flora now.  If you can, try to make it to the Jacksonville show at the end of September and bring that Walk Away!

 

Steve

[limited12 360]