WHnovice 2 #1 Posted April 5, 2013 I have just about finished restoring a WH B-100 but am unable to start it. New battery. I have power to the ignition switch when it is off. Turning the switch to on delivers power to the coil, volt gauge, and rectifier. But nothing happens when I turn to start. I suspect one of the interlocks, however, jumping the solenoid turns the starter and engine without a problem. Niether starter fluid nor gas directly in the carb produces even a cough. Any suggestions? Thanks Larry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
855ownerJoel 32 #2 Posted April 5, 2013 Did you check for spark? Should be able to lay the plug on top of the head and see spark when turning it over. Sounds like two seperate problems also. Starter not turning over is different than the no start most likely. If power to coil she should fire when jumping starter solenoid. When you turn key do you have power to ignition side of starter solenoid? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHnovice 2 #3 Posted April 5, 2013 Thanks, just checked - no spark. New Coil needed? There is no power to the ignition side of the starter solenoid, but I suspect that is due to the interlocks. Those I can adjust or bypass if necessary. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 14,861 #4 Posted April 5, 2013 Do you have a good wiring diagram to trace all of your circuits? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHnovice 2 #5 Posted April 15, 2013 I only have the disconnected wiring diagram from the Toro site. I swapped out he coil with C-85 I have and still have no spark when I jump the solenoid enen though it cranks. WHnovice Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHnovice 2 #6 Posted April 15, 2013 I do not have power on the ignition side of the solenoid when the ignition switch is in the run or start position. I Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 14,861 #7 Posted April 15, 2013 Here is the B-100 wiring diagram. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHnovice 2 #8 Posted April 15, 2013 Thanks very much. I'll try and trace the circuits and determine where it is not working. I suspect the interlocks as it is difficult to depress the clutch pedel, turn the key and test the circuit. I should be able to jump the interlocks If in fact I'm getting power out of the ignition switch. Thanks again. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHnovice 2 #9 Posted April 15, 2013 I have bypassed the interlocks and the engine cranks when the key is turned to start, however, I still have no spark from the coil. Two different coils have the same result. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 14,861 #10 Posted April 15, 2013 (edited) The interlocks would not prevent you from having voltage at the ignition coil. You need to check to see if you have +12V at the "battery" terminal of the ignition switch. Then check to see if you have +12V at the "ignition" terminal when you turn the key to "run". You should also have power at the ignition terminal when the key is turned to "start". If not, you have a bad switch. If you have power at the ignition terminal, but no power at the coil, then you have a bad wire or connector going from the ignition terminal to the ignition coil. Edited April 15, 2013 by rmaynard Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHnovice 2 #11 Posted April 15, 2013 I have power on the battery terminal at the ignition switch. When it is in the run position I have power to both sides of the coil and I have power on the points. The points open and close properly when the engine cranks. Bypassing the interlocks, the engine cranks when the ignitions switch is turned to start. Still no spark from the coil. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WH nut 553 #12 Posted April 15, 2013 I have power on the battery terminal at the ignition switch. When it is in the run position I have power to both sides of the coil and I have power on the points. The points open and close properly when the engine cranks. Bypassing the interlocks, the engine cranks when the ignitions switch is turned to start. Still no spark from the coil. Does the power drop off on the point side of the coil when the points open, if it doesnt then the points are adjusted to close or they are shorted to ground. Power should drop to 0 when points open Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,465 #13 Posted April 15, 2013 If you take a jumper directly from the battery to the coil and crank over the engine you will eliminate all other causes of voltage loss. If you don't have spark pull off the jumper then try disconecting the condencer, reattach the battery jumper and try again. If you now have spark the condencer is the problem. Be sure to disconect the jumper when finished! Good luck and keep us posted. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHnovice 2 #14 Posted April 16, 2013 I have attached a jumper directly from the battery to the + side of the coil, attached the spark wire to the coil and laid the end on the engine. Cranking the engine by jumping the solenoid did not produce spark. I attached to the spark plug and did not get any result. I removed the wire tot he condenser and repeated - still no spark. I then exchanged the coil for one from my C-85 and repeated all steps. Still no spark. The engine cranks fine, so there is no problem with the strength of the battery (new). Any other suggestions? I'm at a loss. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,478 #15 Posted April 16, 2013 Put a test light on the (-) coil terminal. When the points open the light should come on. When the points close the light should go out. My guess is it will not go out because the points need to be cleaned. The contacts are not making a connection because of invisible corrosion on the contact surfaces. Garry 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHnovice 2 #16 Posted April 16, 2013 I don't have a test light, but I did take a close look at the points and realized they were badly burned. I have put a new set of points in and repeated all the tests I have previously done - with two different coils and condensers and spark plug wire. It looks like it is a bad coil, since there is nothing else in the circuit. Larry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,478 #17 Posted April 16, 2013 Any 12 volt test light or volt meter will work. Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
brybrychrismer 17 #18 Posted April 17, 2013 i had a similar problem i had to run a new wire to the points you might check and see if its grounding out somewhere. i would be suspect of a bad condenser as another possibility. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHnovice 2 #19 Posted April 21, 2013 Thanks to for the many responses to my starting problem. Each got me closer to the problem and this morning it fired. Yeah! I replaced the points (badly burned) and adjusted them, since the new points were not closing properly. I've learned a lot from everyone's suggestions. Now I need to go back and connect the ignitions wires correctly and make sure all that is good. At least I know that the basics are functioning correctly. Thanks again. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites