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4hokies

520H Wiring questions

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4hokies

I'm doing some work on my 520H.  First of all, there is a intermittent open circuit somewhere near the 10 amp fuse feeding the instrument panel.  Any ideas on a typical cause?  When I wiggle the wires, the connections comes and goes.  It may be the fuseholder itself, I just haven't narrowed it down.

 

Second question: where is the hydro temp sensor located??

 

Thanks for your help.

 

 

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sorekiwi

Biggest problem area's on the 520's are the 10 pin connector and the fusebox.

 

The hydro temp sensor is on the right side of the trans, way down low and next to an oil supply (or return I dont remember) line into the side of the case.

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Cable

I agree with sorekiwi, the 9 pin connectors and fuse blocks are often an issue.  The 9 pin was used on all 520s and the 4 position fuse block was used between 1990 and 1997. I don't recall seeing one on the 1988 abd 89 tractors. What year is yours?

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Glenn Pettit has designed a cover for the fuse block which I use on all of my five 520s.  Your problem may be on the fuse block but it could be elsewhere. Normally fuse block problems are with the 30 amp fuse.
 
What function with the instrument panel is intermitent?
 
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Wheelhorse84

Will those covers fit a 416 with an onan?

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Save Old Iron

The fuse for the gauges in a 520 are usually 15 amp. The pink wires are the power to the gauges and any intermittent connection in the fuse holder to the gauges could cause your symptoms. Inspect the fuse holder for corroded contacts. The contacts can be removed from the fuse holder and replaced or the wiring to the connectors repaired if damaged or corroded.

 

Tight fitting covers are a two way street - they can keep moisture OUT or they can keep moisture IN. The bottom of the fuse holder is still wide open to the elements. The cover may be a good idea if you hose off the tractor frequently.

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Cable

I've never owned a 416 so can't give a definitive answer to wheter they fit or not.  If your tractor uses the 4 place Packard Electric fuse holder they will fit.  Suggest blowing out each fuse position with compress air and burnishing each set of contracts buy removing and then replacing each fuse a half dozen times or so.

 

All the cover does is keep out dirt and water from above.  As Save Old Iron said, they can keep out water but the holder is open at the bottum.  The problem with the fuse holder is that normal tractor use causes dirt to settle around the fuses.  In time corrosion gets started which increases electical resinstance and therefore heat is generated. The heat can be enough to melt the plastic fuse holder.

 

The 9 pin connector is associated with the Onan.  My limited experience doesen't allow me to say that the Packard Electric fuse holder is common to other WH models.

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4hokies

My 520 is an '88.  I will pull out the multimeter tonight and try to narrow down the problem.

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woodtick_bu

I'm brand new here so if I am in the wrong spot or asking questions where I should not be, please direct me to the correct area.  I have a 1996 520 that I bought new and would not trade for anything.  I just went out and started it to cut grass, it ran for maybe a minute and died and is now dead!  I have checked all the logical items; battery voltage, connections, oil level and found the middle fuse blown.  Replaced it and still nothing.  I have dash idiot lights, the blade is not engaged and the seat switch is bypassed, nothing.  Any help?

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gwest_ca

Here are the detailed wiring diagrams

 

Garry

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cheesegrader

Woodtick,

The possibilities are endless.

I have two 520's, and have had lots of electrical problems. most due to poor work by the PO's.

My 96 had issues with the safety switch on the hydro lever.  Part of the linkage was binding, and it wasn't completely out of "gear" when I parked it.

A frustrating, but simple and free thing to fix.  I have heard the same issue from another '96 owner.

Make sure you aren't being fooled by one of the common safety switches (PTO, seat, hydro lever) before panicking.

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CHUB

I have a 520 that I bought new, great tractor but, I have had my share of wiring problems. I regularly clean the safety switches. The far left fuse in the fuse box was so corroded that I ran an inline fuse around the fuse block  to replace it two years ago. Latest as of yesterday, my wife came in an informed me that she shut off the tracker off and it wouldn't start later. I checked everything that I could think of, checked this blog and found nothing similar. I have a good battery I checked it out. If I jump the starter selinod the engine will turn over, but I have know power, as in the dash lights wont light up when I turn the key. I have been thinking about this issue since yesterday and cant think of what to try next. any ideas? 

 

Chub

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puddlejumper

I think since you have nothing I would make sure you have power to the key switch if you don't trace back, if you do then check key switch.

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546cowboy

Make sure the PTO lever is pulled all the way back as I have done that before and then told myself how stupid I was for not checking that. Sometimes even when it is back that safety switch may mess up. It will not crank if that switch is messed up or not fully engaged.

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2fast2pass

Still no luck with the 520h I replaced all three relay's and the pto switch and nutral safety switch and bypassed the seat switch and replaced the key switch know when I turn the key it turns over and starts and continues to crank all in the run position and have to unhook the battery to make it stop I found the book with the wiring diagram in it we will see if that is of any help thanks every one for all the help I will post with the results.

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puddlejumper

You may have got a bad switch,(Its possible) or you have a short between the start and accssorory wire. with a multimeter check to make sure the start terminal on the key switch goes dead with the key in run position. It should only be energized with key in start, or you could have the start and run accessory crossed. Does it crank and start if you just turn the key on without going all the way to the start position

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2fast2pass

Yes it will start and run and keep cranking in the run position and it is a new key switch I don't know how the wire's would have gotten switched all I changed was the fuse block thank's for the help I will go check it out right know as the grass is growing taller each day.

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Save Old Iron

2fast,

 

disconnect either the trigger or ground terminal from the 4 terminal starter relay near the starter assy on the engine.Make sure the PTO lever is OFF and the tractor motion lever is in NEUTRAL.

 

Turn the switch to the RUN position and see what happens. I'm guessing the starter will not spin. Return the ignition switch back to the OFF position. This check should confirm the starter relay and the starter solenoid are functioning as intended.

 

Reconnect the trigger wire or ground wire to the 4 terminal starter relay starter relay.

 

Please read the following instructions carefully. There is a danger the tractor may move or the mower blades will engage with the following test. You may wish to remove both spark plug wires from the plugs to prevent the engine from starting during the procedures outlined below. If for any reason you feel you cannot perform the following "live" test in a safe manner, an alternate method with test lights or multimeters can be used to test the safety switches.

 

Push the tractor into a open space away from any cars, your home, etc.

Make sure pets and friends are not near the mower deck and you are sitting on the tractor with feet away from the mower deck and blades.

Place the PTO lever in the engaged position.

Briefly turn the ignition switch to the RUN position. The PTO being engaged should not allow the safety switches to electrically engage the starter. If the engine tries to start, immediately turn the ignition switch back to OFF.

In addition to the PTO engaged, you may also want to move the motion lever off NEUTRAL and into a slight reverse position. This should disengage the NEUTRAL safety switch and prevent the tractor from starting. Once again, try a brief check with the ignition switch to the RUN position. If the engine tries to crank, immediately return the ignition switch to OFF.

 

If the engine attempts to crank with the PTO engaged and the motion lever off NEUTRAL we either have a wiring issue or a stuck safety relay.

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