Bought a Grader Blade, have a question.

[dbartlett1958 96]

Today I bought a Grader blade, Toro #79351. I need a picture of the lift link if somebody has one, and also the dimensions if anybody can measure theirs. I looked in the manual section but no real good pictures there.

 

I have attached a few pics of the blade.

 

Thanks for the help.

 

[Kelly 1,028]

I'm using a stock one for a snow plow, the log one, not sure of a size right off hand.

[WH854 44]

Put your Model# 79351 Here gives a breakdown of the blade!!  maybe this will help you.

https://lookup3.toro.com/partdex/index.cfm?xCaller=Toro

 

Chas

[Rock farmer 41]

Dave,

Your gona love that thing! I know I love mine. I can get you some dims after the storm. I you don't get them before.

Here's a picture of mine;

Joe

[dbartlett1958 96]

Joe,

 

I am in no rush whatsoever. I will have the blower on for a few more weeks at least. This is Maine in March after all.

 

I know I can make a link with the approximate dimensions.  Toro wants $43 and change for the lift link. Thats almost half what I paid for the grader blade.

 

Thanks,  David

[dbartlett1958 96]

Put your Model# 79351 Here gives a breakdown of the blade!!  maybe this will help you.

https://lookup3.toro.com/partdex/index.cfm?xCaller=Toro

 

Chas

Chas,  Thanks for that link.

 

David

[Rock farmer 41]

Joe,

 

I am in no rush whatsoever. I will have the blower on for a few more weeks at least. This is Maine in March after all.

 

I know I can make a link with the approximate dimensions.  Toro wants $43 and change for the lift link. Thats almost half what I paid for the grader blade.

 

Thanks,  David

Wow! you did good to get it for something like $100? I paid $250 for mine. I did get a couple of plastic coated wheel weights with it though! The guy that sold it to me thought it was a snow blade?

Joe

[dbartlett1958 96]

Joe,

 

It was $125.  The guy I got it from could have sold it 3 times before I got there, but he spoke with me first and held it for me. Great guy, so I gave him his asking price which I was prepared to do anyway, 

 

But $44 for that piece of steel is crazy.

[KC9KAS 4,741]

Looks like a nice mid-mount grader. The price was a great deal too!

[Hydro 130]

I made mine up too.  It's at home right now but I just used a piece of 3/8" flat bar for a solid link and  had to offset it about an inch I think.  It will lift the front wheels off the ground.  Actaully from my point of view it does not work as well as letting the blade float.  I have graded top soil and gravel.  I did  a large parking lot for a friend.  I have AG's loaded with wheel weights but the blade will stop you dead in your tracks with any amount of down pressure.  I have moved top soil easily to the height of the blade with no issue.

[Butch 194]

I use the solid bar with mine. I use the lift bar to control how deep of a swipe I want to take. With it floating on a chain it dug in on me. I used a moldboard plow to tear up 15,000 square feet of earth and used the mid mount plow to level it. One side of the property was a foot higher than the other side. That plow moved it all and made it level. But holding on to the lift lever gave me a good feel for the leveling or grading. This plow works much better than the front end plow.

[dcrage 621]

So why and when did Wheel Horse change the attachment point for their mid-mount graders -- The 7-1111 that I purchased last week is attached to the mid point "attachamatic" point resulting in the blade being "pulled" -- Dave's 79351 is odviously attached to the rear axled and "pushed" -- How come the change in design?

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,496]

1968 7-1111 mid-mounted Formerly MB-405

Replaces MB-405,

Replaced by 7-1112, 7-1113, 7-1114, 67-40BM01, 77-40BM01, 87-40BM01, 97-40BM01, 07-40BM01

 

07-40BM01 sold 1980-1983

 

1983-1985 rear-mounted 07-50BM01

Replaced by 07-50BM02, 07-50BM03, 79351

These blades are 50" wide.

 

Don't know why they changed.

 

Garry

[Hydro 130]

Okay my bar is 12.5" long x 1.5" wide x 3/8" thick.  Just flat bar.  The distance between the two 3/8" diameter holes centre to centre is

10 3/4". Centre hole to one end is 3/4", the other about 1".  This is one I made up from some measurements I received from someone else.  The offset on mine is about a 1/2" but you can adjust for your own fit.

I would agree with Butch a manual lift probably operates better than hydraulic but I have only used it on my Hydro.

Hope this helps.

[Rock farmer 41]

I have both type grader blades. The front mount one is home made but, it's a pretty good replica. The rear mounted blade digs in better. The front mount tends to be more likely to drift over the ground.

Joe

[dbartlett1958 96]

Okay my bar is 12.5" long x 1.5" wide x 3/8" thick.  Just flat bar.  The distance between the two 3/8" diameter holes centre to centre is

10 3/4". Centre hole to one end is 3/4", the other about 1".  This is one I made up from some measurements I received from someone else.  The offset on mine is about a 1/2" but you can adjust for your own fit.

I would agree with Butch a manual lift probably operates better than hydraulic but I have only used it on my Hydro.

Hope this helps.

Gary,

 

Is the offset only on one end, so that, say, the top is set over about 1/2" from the bottom?  That is what Jo's picture looks like.

[Rock farmer 41]

Here's another photo;

Joe

[dbartlett1958 96]

Joe,

 

Thanks for that other picture, it makes things much clearer. Will knock one of those out in no time once I'm done snowblowing.

 

David

[Forest Road 594]

The 50" grader is my most beloved attachment for our little red tractors. I have close to 1/2 mile of shared driveway I grade once or twice a year. I've used it to cut and level parts of our property, cleaned up after a couple septic installations for friends and family. It's awesome!

I was at a green dealer a few years back looking at a 314-8. The salesman kept trying to push towards a nice new x-400 or x500. One simple question shut him up " can I get a mid mount grader blade? " he then showed me a $12000 x700 to which I replied my lil $500 red tractor does a fine job.

I use a straight piece of bar stock as well. It's also used on my plow. I drilled a couple different holes in mine so I could experiment a bit. Don't get hung up on bending an offset in the bar. If you have access to a welder I strongly suggest welding a pin in the top. And drill the hole for the keeper so you can do it from under the tractor.

[Hydro 130]

Okay my bar is 12.5" long x 1.5" wide x 3/8" thick.  Just flat bar.  The distance between the two 3/8" diameter holes centre to centre is

10 3/4". Centre hole to one end is 3/4", the other about 1".  This is one I made up from some measurements I received from someone else.  The offset on mine is about a 1/2" but you can adjust for your own fit.

I would agree with Butch a manual lift probably operates better than hydraulic but I have only used it on my Hydro.

Hope this helps.

Gary,

 

Is the offset only on one end, so that, say, the top is set over about 1/2" from the bottom?  That is what Jo's picture looks like.

 

 

Yes once you make the piece and drill one end you can hang from the tractor and you will be able to see the offset you need.

Okay my bar is 12.5" long x 1.5" wide x 3/8" thick.  Just flat bar.  The distance between the two 3/8" diameter holes centre to centre is

10 3/4". Centre hole to one end is 3/4", the other about 1".  This is one I made up from some measurements I received from someone else.  The offset on mine is about a 1/2" but you can adjust for your own fit.

I would agree with Butch a manual lift probably operates better than hydraulic but I have only used it on my Hydro.

Hope this helps.

Gary,

 

Is the offset only on one end, so that, say, the top is set over about 1/2" from the bottom?  That is what Jo's picture looks like.

[Butch 194]

Forest Road I agree with ya. My mid-mount grader is my favorite attachment. I don't know if it's used the most or not but it has done the hardest work. And it has saved me a lot of manual labor.

[dbartlett1958 96]

The 50" grader is my most beloved attachment for our little red tractors. I have close to 1/2 mile of shared driveway I grade once or twice a year. I've used it to cut and level parts of our property, cleaned up after a couple septic installations for friends and family. It's awesome!

I was at a green dealer a few years back looking at a 314-8. The salesman kept trying to push towards a nice new x-400 or x500. One simple question shut him up " can I get a mid mount grader blade? " he then showed me a $12000 x700 to which I replied my lil $500 red tractor does a fine job.

I use a straight piece of bar stock as well. It's also used on my plow. I drilled a couple different holes in mine so I could experiment a bit. Don't get hung up on bending an offset in the bar. If you have access to a welder I strongly suggest welding a pin in the top. And drill the hole for the keeper so you can do it from under the tractor.

Forest,

 

I had planned to weld a pin on each ene. Is there any reason I should just weld on one end and leave a hole for a bolt on the other?

 

Thanks for your suggestions.

 

David

[Rock farmer 41]

So, the storm is over. And I got out and got the link. I believe this is the factory link.

Here's some pictures;

[dbartlett1958 96]

Joe,

 

Thanks for the pictures. They really help a lot. I got the basic fab work done today. I just need to tweak the bends a bit once I put the blade under the tractor and drill and cut my pins to the proper length after a test fit.

 

Mine is a bit heavier, 3/8" x 1-1/2" stock. Probably could have used 3/8" x 1", but its done now.

 

Thanks again.

 

David

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,496]

When I made this link I used 1/4" flat stock. Drilled 3/8" holes and used 3/8" x 2" bolts for pins. Installed them in the link from opposite directions and needed only 1/4" of offset in the link. Welded the bolt heads top and bottom to the link. Cut the threads off the bolts and ground a good taper on the pin. Drilled small holes for the spring pin perpendicular to the link and put a good chamfer on both sides of the small holes. Now I know where the holes are and can install the spring pins blind.

 

With 3/8" flat stock you may only need 1/8" of offset.

 

Garry