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Terry M

LUCAS OIL

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Uh-not trying to split hairs, but here are just 2 unbiaseds website that tested several oil products. Amsoil #1. As stated in the best site Amsoil would have been rated #1 if it were not for the price. Because of the price it is often left out of many tests done. So, you decide. I don't take a products, own claims, as being the best. I look for unbiased sites and opinions before I make my choice.

 

http://www.thedirtforum.com/oils.htm

 

http://www.bestcovery.com/best-synthetic-oil

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Like I said for our application the Amsoil didn't work. I don't doubt for some it would be fine just I won't use it ever again.

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I don't know for sure, but I talked to some guys at a Indiana State Highway Maintenance garage.  They had to take bids and do demo's for the type of oil that they were going to use.  Lucas Oil, Mobile 1 and a few others were used in the trial test that they conducted.  They settled on a local company that reconditions and recycles old oil.  They said that it performed better.  I don't know if it actually did or it was just so much cheaper that they went with it.  Maybe some pockets were lined, I don't know, that's just why I was told they use recycled oil over Lucas.

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After reading the last post it's very possible the re-refined oil might be the best.

I used to make special cutter blades for the snack-food industry.

Ton's of stainless and many times bought what was called consumable

remelt and had it explained to me that in the re-refining process the

product come out purer than the original, and could very well may be the case with oil.

I did pay a premium price for my stainless.

I will never thumb my nose at re-refined anything !!

Nickles worth          The old goof in Texas              Jim Rodgers

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lucas makes all 3 but tests have shown the ams and schaefer are the best synthetic but i wouldnt hesitate using lucas

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the main thing about any of these additives is  well, the additives... anything that helps reduce heat break dowm in an air cooled engine is a plus, provided you run it long enough in the heat to make a difference. that is the biggest benefit of synthetics as well. it better resists viscosity  loss when it gets hot. How many people run a garden tractor long enough, and in hot enough conditions to get it hot? not very many of us do. If you do, definitely  use a product that will help it survive, additives DO help in these conditions. Synthetic oil, full synthetic or blends  help alot. we really don't have to worry about the gearbox do we? ever felt it even get warm to the touch? changing the fluids regularly is critical in the run it for a while and put it away for a week routine. it gets warm and cools off  over and over and over.  It picks up  condensation, dirt, dust, metal shavings etc. Better to change it regularly and spend less than go with  the high dollar stuff. Of course, if it makes you feel better, use the high dollar stuff, but change  it regularly anyway. anyone want to see the 290k mi. ORIGINAL 5.2 v-8 in my jeep? never had more than the valve covers off (the gaskets were leaking) no snake oil in it. just valvoline and regular changes.

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Terry, I swear by Lucas Oil Stab. No Dry Starts, Great Compression Increase, Limited Temperature Break Down etc., etc., The most important aspect for me has been the coating it leaves on the internal engine components. Dry Starts (over time) lead to wear and tear on the rings and sleeves. With Lucas every start is "wet". You can really tell the difference after the first hour of running with Lucas. Smooth engine starts and you'll get better fuel usage.

 

Just make sure you mix it correctly. It comes out of the bottle like honey.

 

I use 30 weight Mobile 1 synth. Oil with 1 part Lucas. My oil is clean even after 25 hours. I still change it every 25, but I know in my heart I could go another 25 with no problems.

 

Just my two cents.

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LUCAS... in the verry bottom of my list.

Here are some good and popular engine oil. They all meet OEM minimum requirements, and some are exceeding them.

Witch is the best of the best ? It's hard to tell because it always depend on the way you are using the equipments, the temperature conditions and the kind of environment you are driving in.

 

There are 3 synthetic groups;

- Group V (Ester base) true 100% synthetic,

- Group IV (PAO "Polyalphaolefine") true 100% synthetic,

- Group III (Hydro-cracked mineral oil) 100% synthetized mineral oil.

True 100% synthetic oils

Prolab : 100% synthetic, Groups IV/V PAO/Ester blend base, 2000ppm Zinc
Amsoil : 100% synthetic, Groupe IV PAO base, 2000ppm Zinc
Red Line : 100% synthetic, Groupe V Ester base, 1000ppm Zinc

100% Synthetized mineral base oils
Castrol : Hydro-cracked synthetic, Group III mineral base, 1300ppm Zinc
Mobil 1: Hydro-cracked synthetic, Group III mineral base, 1300ppm Zinc
Royal Purple : Hydro-cracked synthetic, Group III mineral base, 1000 ppm Zinc
Valvoline : Hydro-cracked synthetic, Group III mineral base, 900ppm Zinc

LUCAS: Hydro-cracked synthetic, Group III mineral base, 900ppm Zinc

Engine oil is sensitive to so much things; idle vs. high speed, heat vs. cold, humidity vs. dryness, altitude vs. sea level. An engine wears at a certain rate - sometimes slow, sometimes fast. The rate at which this wear occurs can indeed be influenced by lubrication in many ways. In certain exceptional cases, wear can be nearly held in check. Nurture your oil and you nurture your engine. After all, what comes in more regular contact with the engine’s critical frictional surfaces than the lubricant that bathes them?

Of course there are those fortunate few who can afford the best of everything. They are surrounded by all the high-quality possessions of a life of luxury. As such, they would not settle for anything short of the best for their equipments and accessories, including the best motor oil and the best filter. However, when it comes to lubrication, the best is indeed a foggy concept - after all, don’t most of the major suppliers of lubricant claim to have premium products that are the best? What defines the best? Cost? Aggressive advertising?

Many enthusiasts peoples are totally preoccupied with the love affair they have with their equipments. They belong to clubs, hang out at garages and auto parts stores, have an extensive collection of tools, and of course take great pride in talking about the specific motor oil they use. Their lubrication decisions are often rooted in tradition, loyalty and the habits they have formed.

A surprising large number of us are controlled by fear of criticism and embarrassment. We want to know what everyone else is doing so that we can go with the flow. If our father, brother, sister and best friend all use a conventional Brand X motor oil, we wouldn’t dare consider anything else. After all, we can’t be criticized if we follow the recommendations of our network of personal advisors.

Finally there is a category of peoples who really don’t care. They trust that any oil sold commercially by a household-name oil company is good enough for them. They don’t want to be bothered with the details of having to analyze the available alternatives. To them, ignorance is bliss.

So... like I always say, you probably have tried many brands and finaly found something that really fits your needs? Stick with it!

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In a delma here. Should I jump in, or should I not.... Jumping in... What works for you is not always what is best for the engine... Sorry, but this is coming from someone who understandands lubrication to the max!!! A JP109 jet engine at full AB does not get excited about whatever the crew chief thinks is best.... It does not work that way.... There are so many variables that are to be considered. How long it takes lubrication to start flowing at engine crank, not start, crank! Break down of contaminates, heat, ect.... So if I said pee works for me would that be ok with everyone? Just saying...

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Well... all oil manufacturers are making their lubricants according to OEM minimum requirements. They all start with a base stock oil and put their secret blend of additives.

Some have more of this and other more of that, but they all meet OEM specs. That's why I say as long as you use the recommanded  grade (5W30, 10W40m ect) you're staying far from problems.

The OEM don't recommand any brand or label color, but an API grade. From there you have to pick and chose what better fits your needs according to the use you are doing of your equipments.

 

"So if I said pee works for me would that be ok with everyone? Just saying..." ...If you really know lubrication to the max like you say, this kind of comment is completely stupid and inapropriate. Maybe you should've not jumped in!

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Well... all oil manufacturers are making their lubricants according to OEM minimum requirements. They all start with a base stock oil and put their secret blend of additives.

Some have more of this and other more of that, but they all meet OEM specs. That's why I say as long as you use the recommanded  grade (5W30, 10W40m ect) you're staying far from problems.

The OEM don't recommand any brand or label color, but an API grade. From there you have to pick and chose what better fits your needs according to the use you are doing of your equipments.

 

"So if I said pee works for me would that be ok with everyone? Just saying..." ...If you really know lubrication to the max like you say, this kind of comment is completely stupid and inapropriate. Maybe you should've not jumped in!

Yeah, spend some time in the service, then call me.. A comment about what works best for you without stating you facts in the above post are irrelevant.... Spend some time with a jet engine that spins at 100,000 rpms at 100 percent and has the capabilities to go up to 130 percent and tell me about what works for you! Jump in! Yeah, jumping on you!

Edited by RMCIII

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Did'nt know there was little Wheel Horse tractors with jet engines :laughing-rolling:

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Did'nt know there was little Wheel Horse tractors with jet engines :laughing-rolling:

 

WOW! It's not about jet vs. combustion, it is about lubricant. Regardless of what the engine is, mfg. state what there engineers, testing results. How about what military testing states!!!! Suck, bang, blow go! Figure it out!

Edited by RMCIII

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Well I do know a cub cadet that pulls with a Pratt and Whitney engine from a Sikorsky.

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LUCAS... in the verry bottom of my list.

Here are some good and popular engine oil. They all meet OEM minimum requirements, and some are exceeding them.

Witch is the best of the best ? It's hard to tell because it always depend on the way you are using the equipments, the temperature conditions and the kind of environment you are driving in.

 

There are 3 synthetic groups;

- Group V (Ester base) true 100% synthetic,

- Group IV (PAO "Polyalphaolefine") true 100% synthetic,

- Group III (Hydro-cracked mineral oil) 100% synthetized mineral oil.

True 100% synthetic oils

Prolab : 100% synthetic, Groups IV/V PAO/Ester blend base, 2000ppm Zinc

Amsoil : 100% synthetic, Groupe IV PAO base, 2000ppm Zinc

Red Line : 100% synthetic, Groupe V Ester base, 1000ppm Zinc

100% Synthetized mineral base oils

Castrol : Hydro-cracked synthetic, Group III mineral base, 1300ppm Zinc

Mobil 1: Hydro-cracked synthetic, Group III mineral base, 1300ppm Zinc

Royal Purple : Hydro-cracked synthetic, Group III mineral base, 1000 ppm Zinc

Valvoline : Hydro-cracked synthetic, Group III mineral base, 900ppm Zinc

LUCAS: Hydro-cracked synthetic, Group III mineral base, 900ppm Zinc

Engine oil is sensitive to so much things; idle vs. high speed, heat vs. cold, humidity vs. dryness, altitude vs. sea level. An engine wears at a certain rate - sometimes slow, sometimes fast. The rate at which this wear occurs can indeed be influenced by lubrication in many ways. In certain exceptional cases, wear can be nearly held in check. Nurture your oil and you nurture your engine. After all, what comes in more regular contact with the engine’s critical frictional surfaces than the lubricant that bathes them?

Of course there are those fortunate few who can afford the best of everything. They are surrounded by all the high-quality possessions of a life of luxury. As such, they would not settle for anything short of the best for their equipments and accessories, including the best motor oil and the best filter. However, when it comes to lubrication, the best is indeed a foggy concept - after all, don’t most of the major suppliers of lubricant claim to have premium products that are the best? What defines the best? Cost? Aggressive advertising?

Many enthusiasts peoples are totally preoccupied with the love affair they have with their equipments. They belong to clubs, hang out at garages and auto parts stores, have an extensive collection of tools, and of course take great pride in talking about the specific motor oil they use. Their lubrication decisions are often rooted in tradition, loyalty and the habits they have formed.

A surprising large number of us are controlled by fear of criticism and embarrassment. We want to know what everyone else is doing so that we can go with the flow. If our father, brother, sister and best friend all use a conventional Brand X motor oil, we wouldn’t dare consider anything else. After all, we can’t be criticized if we follow the recommendations of our network of personal advisors.

Finally there is a category of peoples who really don’t care. They trust that any oil sold commercially by a household-name oil company is good enough for them. They don’t want to be bothered with the details of having to analyze the available alternatives. To them, ignorance is bliss.

So... like I always say, you probably have tried many brands and finaly found something that really fits your needs? Stick with it!

Good Lord! I feel like I hit a sand bar and I'm beached & up before the mast :ychain:

 

RMC III, It sounds like Zeus55 knows his stuff. I don't know how to make any suggestions from this point on. I would follow whatever pro advice he has to offer.

 

For myself, I'll follow what the long haul truckers, ships engineers and many professionals I've spoken to use in their "investments" ~"Lucas"~ 

 

Zeus55, I'm hoping you don't hang me by the "short and curlies" or give me a public flogging for my opinion. I've just used Lucas for so many years with no problems, it's hard for me not to suggest it.

 

Have a great day!

 

Dave

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WOW! It's not about jet vs. combustion, it is about lubricant. Regardless of what the engine is, mfg. state what there engineers, testing results. How about what military testing states!!!! Suck, bang, blow go! Figure it out!

 

you know, I dont care mate we're talking about lawnmower engine's and transmissions, not freakin' jets, i just put the cheapo oil in mine and change regularly it works for me! oh and i might try the pee lubricant, would be a hell of a lot cheaper :)

 

 

Koen :flags-netherlands: 

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you know, I dont care mate we're talking about lawnmower engine's and transmissions, not freakin' jets, i just put the cheapo oil in mine and change regularly it works for me! oh and i might try the pee lubricant, would be a hell of a lot cheaper :)

 

 

Koen :flags-netherlands: 

Koen, that "Pee Lubricant" sounds like a pretty good idea if it eminates from a good Grolsch Beer.

post-13829-0-73192400-1410546800_thumb.j

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Koen, that "Pee Lubricant" sounds like a pretty good idea if it eminates from a good Grolsch Beer.

 

that's the good stuff dave, brewed localy for me :)

 

 

Koen :flags-netherlands: 

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that's the good stuff dave, brewed localy for me :)

 

 

Koen :flags-netherlands: 

God Bless The Royal Netherlands Navy for introducing us to their "wet" ships. The first Grolsch I ever had was during a visit on one of your Frigate's in Den Helder. Great crew! Great ship and very professional.

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you know, I dont care mate we're talking about lawnmower engine's and transmissions, not freakin' jets, i just put the cheapo oil in mine and change regularly it works for me! oh and i might try the pee lubricant, would be a hell of a lot cheaper :)

 

 

Koen :flags-netherlands: 

Me too. I use Walmart blue bottle 30WT oil so I don't feel bad about dumping the stuff after 20 or 25 hrs. Could not afford to do that with the good stuff. Works fine now and has been for years.  :)

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Good Lord! I feel like I hit a sand bar and I'm beached & up before the mast :ychain:

 

RMC III, It sounds like Zeus55 knows his stuff. I don't know how to make any suggestions from this point on. I would follow whatever pro advice he has to offer.

 

For myself, I'll follow what the long haul truckers, ships engineers and many professionals I've spoken to use in their "investments" ~"Lucas"~ 

 

Zeus55, I'm hoping you don't hang me by the "short and curlies" or give me a public flogging for my opinion. I've just used Lucas for so many years with no problems, it's hard for me not to suggest it.

 

Have a great day!

 

Dave

:)  no I'm not jumping on anybody. This is what I hate about the internet, you never see the intention behind the keyboard. I was joking about the comment and it have been badly interpreted or I I did not use the right words. Anyway... RMCIII seems to have experience and I respect that.

 

I put LUCAS in the bottom of the list because they spend more money in advertizing than development. It's a corporate decision and they seem to have some kind of success with that.

As for you reference (truckers), those guys have tried a lot of products and most of the time they know what they are talking about.

 

For our info, I'm national sales manager for a specialized industrial lubricant company and I am a certified ICML (internalional council of machinery lubrication) technician.

But for those little tractors, they recommand a monograde SAE30, so anything multi-grade like 5W30, 10W30 will do good :handgestures-thumbupright:

Edited by Zeus55
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It's all good Zeus55......I meant what I said before. You sound like you know what your talking about. Although I have to admit, Koens idea about the recycled beer sure sounds cost effective :) Kill two birds with one stone....so to speak.

 

I hope you all are having a great weekend. I'm going back to cutting firewood and getting ready for another loooooooooong Ohio winter.

 

Take Good Care,

 

Dave

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I have to admit, Koens idea about the recycled beer sure sounds cost effective :) Kill two birds with one stone....so to speak.

 

And Koens is right... recycled oil is more pure than commercial oils. They filter the oil at 1 to 3 microns and add an additive package.

Cheers!

Edited by Zeus55

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:)  no I'm not jumping on anybody. This is what I hate about the internet, you never see the intention behind the keyboard. I was joking about the comment and it have been badly interpreted or I I did not use the right words. Anyway... RMCIII seems to have experience and I respect that.

 

I put LUCAS in the bottom of the list because they spend more money in advertizing than development. It's a corporate decision and they seem to have some kind of success with that.

As for you reference (truckers), those guys have tried a lot of products and most of the time they know what they are talking about.

 

For our info, I'm national sales manager for a specialized industrial lubricant company and I am a certified ICML (internalional council of machinery lubrication) technician.

But for those little tractors, they recommand a monograde SAE30, so anything multi-grade like 5W30, 10W30 will do good :handgestures-thumbupright:

 

zeus, what do you think of pyrolisis oil? info on it here: http://www.btg-btl.com/en . seems very sticky and thinking of trying it in a scrap engine to see how it works

 

 

Koen

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zeus, what do you think of pyrolisis oil? info on it here: http://www.btg-btl.com/en . seems very sticky and thinking of trying it in a scrap engine to see how it works

 

 

Koen

Hi Koen, pyrolysis oil is also known as bio-oil made from bio mass products.

 

There are some worrying points that you have to be aware of in using this type of lubricant; pyrolysis oil contains 20 to 25% of water and this is a problem when it comes to corrosion and evaporation. This oil have a low viscosity @40C... only 13. Most engine oils have, at 40C, between 60 to 100 cSt of viscosity. Also, there is no Zinc in this oil and an engine need some Zinc, Phosphorus and ash to protect itself against friction.

 

If you decide to go with this type of oil, just make sure to select something that will protect your engine. Get and read the spec sheet and compare it with a regular engine oil's spec sheet. If the spec sheet does'nt show enough information... stay away from it.

Cheap is not always profitable.

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