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K321

27 posts in this topic

ID: 1   Posted

I got the gt into the shop. Located a new starter and put it in. Turn the key and it won't turn the engine over. In fact the bendix sticks in the teeth of the flywheel. I took the cover off to inspect. I'm not real educated on this type of starter setup so I need some help.

1. Do these starters need shims to align with the flywheel?

2. I see there is a trigger module that is not hooked up, is it supposed to be?

3. The key switch has 5 prongs with only 4 wires hooked up to it.

Here are some pics

image_zpsa621883e.jpg

image_zps283ace67.jpg

image_zps1534e338.jpg

image_zps4feea37b.jpg

image_zps7c8d05ea.jpg

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ID: 2   Posted

The trigger module was left there from a breakerless to battery ignition conversion and won't hurt anything - but it can be removed if you want.

The starter motors can be shimmed as necessary, but it looks like the return spring on the starter drive ("bendix") might be missing on your starter.

If it is there, it should look like this:

post-33-0-23841100-1356886237.png

You will need to make sure the helix of the drive is clean in the gear and on the shaft. Use powered graphite or an equivalent 'dry' lubricant when assembling.

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ID: 3   Posted

:) It looks to me that the starter gear is set to deep in the ring gear. Try shimming it out a little. Did you bench test that starter? On the trigger module I have no idea, as I have never messed with one. :flags-usa:

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ID: 4   Posted

Your solenoid switch should be grounded ( bolted to the metal engine cover or to the tractor frame) to get power to the starter .

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ID: 5   Posted

Your solenoid switch should be grounded ( bolted to the metal engine cover or to the tractor frame) to get power to the starter .

It is. It's bolted to the grille brace.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Although there has been mention of shimming starters on these engines, I haven't personally seen one that needed it. :confusion-shrug:

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ID: 6   Posted

After closer inspection of both starters the new one was missing the cup thingy that the spring seats in. Buckshot you were right. Once I switch that out it works. No shims needed. Now that I have it turning over time to check the normal stuff, no spark or fuel. I have a buddy that works for sunbelt(division of JD). Petra cAtalog here we come. Might as well get all new electrical parts. Gonna redo all the wiring while I'm at it. Carb kit and fuel lines. Thanks for the help with the starter.

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ID: 7   Posted

I would clean and set the points first - before spending money on new parts that you might not even need.

Hopefully the ignition switch has also been changed to work with the battery ignition conversion. :confusion-shrug:

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ID: 8   Posted

Terry how can I verify that?

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ID: 9   Posted

Long story short, there has to be power at the ignition coil + terminal when the switch is in both "run" and "start" positions.

If the person who performed the conversion used the "A" (accessory) terminal on the original switch for ignition power, it will not have ignition power when cranking and will only fire when the key is released back to the "run" position.

That will work only if the engine turns over fast enough to "catch" and the person trying to start it knows that's how it has to happen.

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ID: 10   Posted

I tore it down. Removed everything around the engine. It needs cleaned up anyway. Took the carb off and it is soaking. Checked the points, cleaned them and set the gap, they were only gapped at .010. Voltage regulator has a broken off tab so a new one is needed. I made a diagram of the switch and labeled where the wires went. I will post that soon.

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ID: 11   Posted

Here is the pic of the switch.

image_zpsf440828b.jpg

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ID: 12   Posted

That's the switch for battery ignition and it was wired correctly. :handgestures-thumbup:

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ID: 13   Posted

Thanks Terry.

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ID: 14   Posted

:) Glad to hear that you fiqured it out and its working again. :text-happynewyear: :flags-usa:

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ID: 15   Posted

You're a good man Terry :)

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ID: 16   Posted

I got my quote back for the parts I need. Holy crap is it reasonable.

Air filter

Voltage regulator

Coil

Carb kit

Seat with folding arm rests

All for 116 bucks, 75 of it is the seat.

Nice to have a few connections.

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ID: 17   Posted

How about a picture of that $75.00 seat?

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ID: 18   Posted

c4ea4beba0065947f07483e187fec3e4.jpg

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ID: 19   Posted

Where did you get the seat?

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ID: 20   Posted

Where did you get the seat?

Yeah, where did you get the seat??? I want six of them!!!

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ID: 21   Posted

Bump

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ID: 22   Posted

I'm getting the seat from Sunbelt. A buddy of mine is getting at employee pricing. Normally it is a 140 dollar seat.

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ID: 23   Posted

From my switch drawing above what post do I feed power to the switch that turns on the electric pto clutch?

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ID: 24   Posted

The "A" (accessory) terminal is for the lights & PTO clutch feed.

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ID: 25   Posted

Thanks Terry.

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