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buckrancher

1533 bearing substitution

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Nice work Brian!

I'm glad someone finally did it The R22 is a much nicer price as well.

Now to see if anyone has the balls to do it to a diff with 1 1/8 axles!

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Nice work Brian!

I'm glad someone finally did it The R22 is a much nicer price as well.

Now to see if anyone has the balls to do it to a diff with 1 1/8 axles!

It can be done but not with the R22 with the 1 1/8 dia. axle you need to remove the material from the case halfs Mc Master-carr sells a bearing thats 1 1/2" ID x 2 5/8" OD x 7/16" W so that means .0625 removed from the sides of the case bores and you need a .0625 shim

between the bearing and flange on the diff. halfs

Brian

Edited by buckrancher
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Gotta love this Christmas present! Great work bRIAN.

I hope the bearing companies are watching this too!

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Nice setup Brian. I always tell the youngins in the shop that we are limited only by our creativity and imagination in this trade.

Edited by Coadster32

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Glad to see you got around to doing this. I can see it's going to work great on the 1" axles. :bow-blue:

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Excellent Brian...this needs to go in one of the save this thread sections for sure. :)

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I hope the bearing companies are watching this too!

We just happened to have a traveling trade show come through at work for Koyo Bearings (they now own Torrington) Timken came through here about a year ago. I inquired about just what it would take to have these bearings made. The answer was pretty much unless you wanted to buy 1million of them forget it. Most of the assembly lines are completely automated now and to set up to run these bearings would be incredibly expensive. So unless someone like GM of Ford come around and decide to put this bearing in a rear end it ain't gonna happen.

I'm not saying that there may not be a smaller custom bearing house out there somewhere who would like to do it, but not likely in the small numbers we need. :eusa-think::sad:

By the way nice job I'll have to give that a try when I strip down my 655 again to fix it right.

Edited by Sousakerry2

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Better leave that lathe set up. :)

Really.

Nice work, Brian, thanks for taking the time to figure out how to make this work, and for sharing it with us all. And thanks also to Don1977 for the inspiration. :handgestures-thumbup:

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Great thread Brian. One question, did you make or buy the shims?

bought them from mcmaster-carr

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Please forgive my 'newbieness', but what is the reason this same fix won't work for the 1-1/8" axles?

 

I presume that there won't be enought 'meat' left on the carrier due to the center bore being bigger?

 

I'm quite sure that the 1533 bearing on the left side of my C175 transaxle is shot... I started looking for the parts and discovered the bearing is NLA and ended up here in my search.

 

Does my tranny have 1" or 1-1/8" axles?

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This fix should work for the 1 1/8" axles also.  I stopped telling people what axle size they have...who knows if your trans is the one that came with that horse.  You just need to measure the axle diameter.  This is all fairly new stuff...they just ran out of on the shelf bearings about 2 years ago...and we have members that have some new and used in stock.  The reason threads like this have been around a while, is that the bearings were expensive and we were trying to figure a way around that.  Now we are running out of options. :)

 

BTW...Welcome to Red Square.

Edited by stevasaurus

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Jeff, I wouldnt panic just yet about your ball bearings being bad.  I've probably been into about 20 transmissions (some for rebuild, some for parting out) and I've probably only seen 3 or 4 of the ball bearings being bad.

 

Single row ball bearings are, by their nature, a little sloppy in the direction that you are seeing your play.  The needle roller at the outer end of the axle is what stops its moving up and down.

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Thanks guys!  I appreciate the responses.

 

I've had this machine since '92 and when I got it I did a bunch of work... I bought seals and the needle bearings at that time but never installed them, they're out in the garage somewhere, gotta find them.

 

Long story short, the left side was 'weeping' when I got it, but not badly, and I 'forgot' about it for 11 years.

 

When I brought the machine out last week for it's first workout of the season, there was a bit of a stain on the floor where it had leaked and run down the wheel and tire to the floor, so last year the seal got worse and prompted me to start looking into the repair.

 

It's got the 1" axles BTW...

 

I had initially hoped that I would not have to remove the tranny and would be able to fashion some kinda 'tool' to pull the needle roller on the machine, but from what I'm reading now, it doesn't appear I'll be able to do that.  So that leads me to my next question...

 

Is the needle roller pressed into the housing?  or is it a slip fit?

 

Should I start a new thread?  or is it OK to add to this one?

 

BTW, a bit about me... I'm not new to rebuilding motors and trannys... so I'm not 'afraid' of pulling it apart, just LAZY! LOL!

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The needle rollers are a light press fit in the housing. 

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Back in the late 80's changed the bearings on my transmission. Broke one bearing  on the shaft that is geared to the differential pulling out some 12' tall persimmon trees. Didn't have Red Square or a repair manual but I got it fixed. Had to pull it back apart before putting it back in the tractor. Don't remember what it was but something wasn't right. Got it the second time.

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Don1977 got me thinking about this again so I decided too do it as the 1533 bearing is no longer

available from toro

My fix needs some machine work to beable to do this replacement

the standard 1533 bearing dim. are 1 1/2" ID x 2 1/2" OD x 1/2" W the new R22 bearing

I'm replacing it with is 1 3/8" ID x 2 1/2" OD x 7/16" W so this requires I remove .0625 from

the differential hubs

Since we don't have a manual lathe at work I setup my vertical lathe

100_6192.jpg

turned the dia. to 1.375 plus 0 minus .0005

100_6195.jpg

1533 bearing is on the left and the R22 bearing is on the right notice the R22 is a heavier bearing and

should work just fine

100_6198.jpg

as the original 1533 bearing is 1/2" wide and the R22 is 7/16" wide I use a .0625 shim to

make up the differance

100_6199.jpg

shim in place on diff. hub

100_6200.jpg

R22 bearing installed with shim

100_6202.jpg

100_6206.jpg

this should work fine for the old transmissions that use the 1533 bearing with 1" axles

Brian

I agree this would be better on 1" axels but the 1 1/8' I'd stay worried every time the Horse got a load on haul. The first case was a 3 speed but unsure of which axel it had as was in pieces on arrival. Asked Bill to practice on it. I might talk him into trying a 1" carrier hub, if I've not pushed it to far already. 

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I believe the 1 1/8" axle is better off having the material removed for the bearing in the case halves and not the diff. housing as the diff. housing is already thinner for the larger axle

 

Brian

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I believe the 1 1/8" axle is better off having the material removed for the bearing in the case halves and not the diff. housing as the diff. housing is already thinner for the larger axle

 

Brian

I totally agree with ya there. Bill set that up pretty quickly with that fine rig he has and amazed me how quickly it cut. I know with me asking dozens of questions, peering over his shoulder and snapping pics, he was out of his normal pace. Really do appreciate the work and knowledge of you machinist folks.

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Having worked in a machine shop (now retired and haven't a shop available) set up is always the killer of low cost.  Do we want to see if we have a machinist willing to do a bunch of modifications.  Then we can find members with a need and willing to send a bunch of parts to modify at once?

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