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wp205a

Penetrating oil and steering wheel removal

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wp205a

1st "new" topic I've done so excuse the mess. I just posted 5 pics to my gallery showing removal of my 854 steering wheel. I've been spraying (lightly) with Kano sili-kroil since 8/12 in case I needed it off. Used a 1" open end wrench under the wheel , a Craftstman 2 jaw puller, 1 1/4 in nut under the puller and a short 5/8 boxed in wrench to remove, came off like a charm. The secret was in the preparation.

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can whlvr

nice to here a good story about pulling a wheel :thumbs:

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Tankman

I didn't think of the open end under the steering wheel. Been soaking my wheel and shaft for a month or two; liquid wrench, WD-40, PB Blaster, you name it. I did manage to remove the roll pin. Steering wheel stayin' put.

I'm going to try the open end under the wheel for a better footing, wheel puller.

FYI. This is on my '85 416-8, fat steering wheel, small center "hub." TORO did an excellent engineering job on this steering shaft support, "What? Sixteen gauge cold rolled steel?" :-(:-( :-(

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Duff

Hate to have to say it, Tankman, but the thin sheet metal steering support predates Toro's appearance on the Wheel Horse scene. As near as we can figure it was a cost savings measure somewhere along the line - certainly not one of their better moves. I'll grant you! :banghead:

Daniel, I've got a wheel I'm trying to get off and you've given me another option to try! :text-thankyoublue:

Duff :thumbs:

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wp205a

OK folks, the story continues. Steering wheel is off (old news), tank is off awaiting the gasket and Yamabond (thanks again Brian), plastic bushing below the steering wheel replaced with a 3/4-7/8 brass bushing. Noticed the quadrant gear that works off the worm gear (lower steering wheel shaft) has way too much slop, (unwanted movement). Do I have to pull the engine to repair this problem, which I hope is a worn out roll pin? I realize that I need to completely disassemble this little jewel and go back just right but that is not my current intention.

Edited by wp205a

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Wishin4a416

Great tip. I think I'll be needing it.

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wp205a

Removed the battery box and with a little luck was able to get the roll pin(s) out. Had one inside of one. A little more luck allowed me to repair with only a new pin. I could see no wear on the old pin. Amazing.

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krazy_horse

I sure like to learn other options such as this! krazy_horse

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wp205a

Admiring my work, realized I have the open end of the roll pin out of line with the torque, so I must remove/redo. Got out my Yamabond 4 to prepare to redo my tank, read, "For best results, contents of tube should be used within one year of purchase." Last Cushman Silver Eagle completed in '09, so I believe my year has elapsed. Fun times.

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wp205a

Roll pin aligned, nice weather in Alabama for a patio project, new tube of Yamabond on hand. Plan to regasket/seal tank tomorrow and be ready for the next nice day to put it back in running condition. :woohoo:

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wp205a

My "adult" supervisor smelled the old Yamabond and decided it would be fine, so the new tube remains unopened. This is probably payback for me supervising him. I'll let y'all know if the tank leaks.

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specialwheelhorse

The best and least stessful way I've foud to remove a stuborn wheel

Is a real good hacksaw.

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wp205a

Everything is back in place except I forgot to bring my anti-seize so that my grandkids won't have to use the hacksaw. I'll put the steering wheel back on later. If I had this to do over, I'd defintely attach the wires to the ammeter first then to the switch/regulator. My contortionist days are long gone. Bushing/roll pin and clean up job appear to have gone well. Maybe the tank leak is history.

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wp205a
post-8412-0-34949400-1358806652_thumb.jpThere have been several days since August when I'd just as soon not received this 854 as a gift from one of my coworkers. Today is not one of them. Steering much better, no leaks (yet) at the tank, Decided to check my drive belt, looks like it's just about had it. Will look for pitch & length here later. Anybody have a guess as to why this cutout, and another one on the bottom of the belt cover, might have been done?

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glgrumpy

Belts run pretty close to cover in some spots. Maybe if it has too fat a belt and rides up on pulleys, it HIT some of the tin. PO just cut out spots to clear it. OR..... Cover is from an auto and had the park brake lever up thru it? (doesn't explain the lower cut).

On this steering pull......Why doesn't someone make a fat based puller for them. Big circle, maybe 1" slot to pass over shaft and still set on some metal in the wheels to pull on? I've ripped off wheels and left behind the metals, wrecking all of it. I've also been afraid of mashing the end of a hollow shaft on my Power Kings, even with nut back on a little. I didn't wholly understand the open end wrench part. How'ld you connect that to puller? Only one end of wrench would stick out to grab! That is idea of the part I mention above, but bigge and would just use a standard puller big enough to reach accross wheel center. Could drill holes in plate and thread, or just use bolts and nuts on back to pull against. This could be left on under pressure and oil away and wait for days, maybe tighten a little more each day if it seems to move at all. I suppose tractors with trim and tubes in way would be harder to get puller close enough to shafts and metal part of wheels. How about one of those split bearing pullers with tapered center and flat other side? Might squeeze into tight areas with that, then use reg puller on it. Pullers I'm thinking of are not the ones with three arms and bent end, but the channel like ones that have bolts slipped down thru them. OR, harmonic balancer type.

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wp205a



Pics attached Edited by wp205a

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wp205a

The puller grabbed the edges of the wrench just right. It was either a 1" or 1 1/4. I might have just been lucky.

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wp205a

Back to normal, checked the tank this morning and....it's leaking. Kreem kit here we come. I probably should have used that new Yamabond. Lesson learned. No grass to cut anyway and I have something else to do.

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wp205a

When you regasket/seal your tank, before you install it and fuel up, recheck the torque on your screws. After discovering my leak I did and they weren't tight enough. Of course I was missing one of the hex head screws, so I used a slotted head. So it would be hidden, I put it in the hole in the rear and to the right of the steering shaft so that it would be nearly impossible to get to and tighten. I feel sure the fuel has saturated the gasket so that it will continue to leak and give me the opportunity to Kreem the tank. Don't do as I do, Fun times. :scared-ghostface:

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"D"- Man

I had to remove a stubborn steering wheel from a 40 year old 18 automatic. I probably used a quarter of the P B Blaster can over a couple months time. Didn't have a puller so I used a 1-1/16 or 1-1/8 open end wrench under the wheel and a hammer, hammered up at each of the 3 spokes one at a time about a dozen times per spoke turning the wheel only one third of a turn and another dozen hammerings per spoke untill the rotating of the wheel bottomed out then hammered rotating in the other direction repeated several times until I finally saw the space between the hub top and the shaft top was less, not much longer hammering and it separated. Wow was I surprised!!! Mark.

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wp205a

Brainstorm! drain the tank, let it sit til the weekend. That'll let the gasket/yamabond dry out. Recheck the torque, refill and......watch it leak some more. Stay tuned. Everything went so well, even found a bad wire from the ampmeter to the regulator. Replaced it and the meter started showing a charge. Patience is not one of my virtues.

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wp205a

Got out my refridgeration 1/4 " wrench out after draining the tank, choked up on it about 1/2 ", screws seemed loose, Gone back 3 or 4 times, seems like they need a little more torque each time. My theory is that I'm compressing the gasket/Yamabond and that my leak will disappear. My gut feeling is that I'm wasting my time. Stay tuned, I'll wait another week or so before refilling the tank and let you know what happens. Have a great weekend. Heading to the farm, no computer, no dogs, no cable TV.

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Cvans

I have some Yama-bond that is several years old and is still working just fine. Take a small amount and spread it on a piece of paper and leave it for 24 hours. If it cures I would think it should be fine to use.

Your success with the penetrating oil proves that giving it adequate time to do it's work is the key. Too many people squirt it on and 5 minutes later are unhappy because it didn't work. Kroil will penetrate 1 millionth of an inch but it takes time and reapplication.

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Marv

On my D200 after all the penetrant an pulling I wound up cutting the shaft below the steering wheel. I put wheel on a press and pressed the stub out. I had the shaft welded back togheter and turned to true it up. Anti seize going back together.

Marv

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wp205a

You are exactly right Cvans, my buddy and I were concentrating on flying Chinese made remote controlled helicopters instead of taking care of business. I'm going to give mine to him with instructions he is not to fool with it while we are supposed to be fixing antique tractors, scooters etc. One of my favorite Red Square guys says, "if you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?" I'm just glad my projects don't affect my livelihood too much.

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