widjet 0 #1 Posted July 26, 2008 B) I've been fighting a starting/running problem on my K181 ever since the brass jam nut on the governor rod came loose. Don't know how that can be related, but while resetting the governor/throttle connection (thru some trial and error) the engine started to die out when opening the throttle to increase rpm's. At first thought the carburator was the problem and sure enough, there was some dirt/misc. in the bowl. After having cleaned the carburator thoroughly, 3 times now, I don't think that's it. After replacing all the electrical system; new magneto, spark plug & wire, new points & condenser I've still got the same problem. The fuel pump seems to be working and the engine will run at idle for a while with the fuel pump line disconnected. I connected a timing light with an external 12Volt battery and the flashes from the timing light coincide with the operation of the engine. When the throttle is opened the flashes stop. On website suggested this problem was related to the condenser, but it's had 3 different condensers installed, one new one the morning and still no change. Anyone got any suggestions??? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,127 #2 Posted July 26, 2008 First off, We'll see if we can't get you on the right track..... Unscrew the main jet needle completely and pull it out of the carburetor. Make sure all of the small holes are clean and blow some compressed air through it from the bottom. If you have an air compressor with a blow gun, remove the float bowl and blow air down through the hole that the main jet needle came out of. (so the air comes out the bottom of the carb.) Reinstall the bowl and needle, tightening the needle lightly against the seat and backing it out about 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dieselhorse 0 #3 Posted July 26, 2008 TT has is right, if you were close by, I would give ya a hand. I can overhaul and tune these small kohlers in my sleep. I had a cub that was like that, was carb settings and points needing replaced. Make sure your gap between the magneto coil and the flywheel are correct, old school setting was the thickness of thick piece of paper, points were a matchbook cover thickness. If you have a proper feeler gauge so much the better. I can give ya the factory specs for it. The Kohler book for the K series is the best money you can spend if you work on them much. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
linen beige 14 #4 Posted July 27, 2008 points were a matchbook cover thickness. Not a lot of mechanics left who knew that a match book was .020 and a paper match stick was .035.! Who needed a store bought feeler guage when businesses passed out matches for free? And Widjet, sounds like TT ( our resident mechanical geenyus) has you one the right track. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
widjet 0 #5 Posted July 27, 2008 B) Thanks everyone for the input. The motor is running good and it mows up a storm. It ended up being the points setting that got the motor rpm's up. I started with the carburator first and blew out the main fuel jet needle, checked it out and reassembled. Reset the needle opening and started it up... still the same problem. Opened up the slow idle needle some more as TT suggested and it helped smooth the idle but it still died out when opening the throttle. So I looked around and here's my wife looking over my shoulder asking, "Is it fixed yet?" "Nope but I've got one more thing to try", and with that she's off to go shopping. I had already moved the points setting to a loose .018 based upon a Kohler parts department recommendation, and with ya'alls (that's supposed to be plural) input I took it down to a tight .016, set everything and pulled the starter. It immediately ran it a higher rpm and when opening the throttle, it stumbled a bit but then ran on out. From the initial response of the engine I was wondering if taking it down to .015 might not improve the performance. (Any comments?) Anyway my frustration level has improved, I'd already loaded this thing up once to take into a service department, but everyone is 2 to 3 weeks behind on service work. Bottom line, your input provided the necessary direction to follow through. Thanks again. John OKC Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,127 #6 Posted July 27, 2008 I have a magneto ignition K-181 running about .012" - . 013" gap on the points. (It has a little better fuel in the tank than 87 octane pump gas though. ) For some reason the mag engines like the closer setting of the points. B) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
