Any Wood Stove Experts Floating Around Here???

[Docwheelhorse 2,560]

Hello All,

I have a question on the lining of my wood stove. Stove is 5 years old and has had 6 or so cords through it, the bricks lining the stove started cracking and crumbling and when I went to the dealer they wanted $300 for a new set of bricks!!!!!

Well I decided there has to be a better way and left the damaged bricks in the stove and took a large piece of 3/8" plate steel and cut it/bent it up to form "L's" I put one L to the left and one to the right and finally bent a piece to cover the back and sit on top of the other two. Essential I lined the whole stove and made no modifications/welding at all. I was all proud of myself but am now hearing I won't get any heat, I will wreck the stove and blah, blah blah. There isn't any airgap between the old existing brick and the steel..... about the only modification you can say I did was reduce the firebox size, this was all done late in the season last year and has only had one fire in it.

I have to go and get a new clay smoke shelf and blanket as a squirel got into the stove from the chimney and tore it all up. What I'm wondering is if I did make a mistake and should I pull the steel out and get bricks cut to fit and put the stove back to "stock" for this upcoming heating season. I did find a shop that will cut all the bricks and sell them to me for ~$100 out the door.

Thanks for any Advice!!!

Tony

Edited September 24, 2012 by Sparky

[Jim_M 178]

I'm no expert but I heat my house with 2 wood stoves. I bought new firebrick at TSC and cut it myself. Menards has it also. It cuts easily with a drywall saw. Wear a dust mask so you don't breathe the dust.

[GlenPettit 1,714]

The bricks reduce the amount of high intense heat hitting the metal sides of your stove, and they absorb and transmit the heat slowly. Your metal 'L's' would reduce the side heat and allow more of the heat to go up the chimney. Too many broken/cracked bricks will soon fall apart in the stove. To purchase and cut the bricks yourself is very smart, just wear a mask.

To have a large pile of metal, bricks, blocks or stored water near your stove is very smart, that "mass" can store heat and then release it slowly. Remember pictures of the old pioneer log cabins; they had a huge massive stone fireplace in the center of the house, that mass stored and released heat all night.

I'm thinking of all the $$$$ you're saving yourself, (and not exporting it to the middle east), plus the great workout you get cutting it.

I've read that a Log gives off exactly the same elements and gasses, decaying in the woods for 50 years, as it does being burned.

Good Luck,

[hbrooks49 12]

I relined an old wood cook stove and found some very soft white firebrick that cut easily with a saw..... firebrick are not all created equal, but $100 for a custom cut set for your stove doesn't seem like a bad price - can't remember what mine cost but the firebox was quite small.

[Don1977 604]

You have already lined it with steel I would give it a try. I don't think it will make much difference once it's heated up. Usually all the fire brick are there for is to protect the out side steel box.

[can whlvr 991]

im a mason for many years,go to a masonry supply store,ask for fire bricks to build fire boxes in fireplaces,theres 2 thicknesses,you probally need the 1 inch,they come 4.5 wide x 9 inches,and it wont cost 300 bucks,to cut just buy a saw blade that will fit a skill saw

[kloe0699 12]

The bricks are designed to reduce the heat placed on the outside steel of the stove. They also help to hold heat when your fire dies down. As mentioned they are not expensive. And if you do get them and decide to cut them yourself I agree you should wear a mask. I replace mine every 3 years or so as needed.

[Docwheelhorse 2,560]

Hello All and Thanks for the replies!!! I guess I am going to burn a few fires with the steel I installed and see if it changes the performance at all. If the stove just isn't putting out what it used to I will pull out the steel and put in brick.... the way I figure it the 3/8" steel will take a long long time to burn out. The original firebrick is still present so I don't think I will be doing any damage to the sides or back of the stove. I thought I was doing the stove a favor by lining it with heavy gauge steel.... I dunno and will experiment as long as I'm not doing damage which i gather I won't by reading the replies...

Tony

[Jim_M 178]

I don't see how it could damage it. If you still have the fire brick in place you may even be better off. That steel plate will hold heat a long time. It may warp though, keep an eye on it.

[hbrooks49 12]

We heated with wood in upstate NY for the better part of a couple of decades and also used an old wood cookstove during the winter... I would watch out for warpage, that would be the only thing that might occur. When you put new wood on a hot bed of coals and open the bottom draft to get it going it is just like a forge.

[perry 82]

what make/model woodstove do you have ?. have to be carefull with alterations to a woodstove.

fire brick at tsc- http://www.tractorsupply.com/replacement-fire-bricks-pack-of-6-3184845

[perry 82]

here is a good site for all wood burning questions and answers - http://www.hearth.com/talk/

[Docwheelhorse 2,560]

Thanks everyone and a BIG Thanks to Perry!!! I'm going to join the forum and ask them the same questions.... I did talk to a dealer and he was telling me that the steel will retain too much heat and will destroy the stove... I'm confused as ever..... but I will figure it out. That wood stove forum looks very promising.

I will update soon...

Tony

[perry 82]

yep that forum has helped me out alot over the years. I have a englander 13NC in the house and a big'ol earth stove 100 in the garage.

[grnlark 479]

I really like my Honeywell programmable digital thermostat. I dont lift a finger and POOF - 68 degrees! :)

[tomtractor 71]

I would try it. Also if there is a cavity to put sand/ash between the layers of steel you could try that. Or something to absorb/hold heat. Find an old broken soapstone sink - cut it up and line the inside of the stove. Country fixes are fun but sometimes spending the money (on fire bricks) is better.

[Docwheelhorse 2,560]

Hello All,

just wanted to report that I have been burning the stove with the steel that I had bent and installed. It seems to be a touch slower in getting up to full temp (takes about 1 1/2 hours) but after that I don't seem to notice any difference in output. The plates haven't bent or warped at all and I have had it good and hot for days at a clip..... The latest thing is the gasket on the glass in the door is leaking and I can hear the stove pulling air in..... that will be the next thing I wil have to service. This wood stove thing is a bit more of a hastle then I thought it was gonna be. I dont know if I would do it again.... I like the heat but it certainly is a ton of work.

Tony

[perry 82]

what kind of stove is it....... that seems too new to be haveing problems unless its a cheap stove. i bought a U.S stove brand at TSC and it was a POS and nothing but a headache. crappy door seal , no good control over the air , and the fire bricks started to crumble after the first burning season. I went on the hearth forum and did my research. got a new englander 13NC stove on sale for $375 . it has been 5 years and has been a great stove and enjoy useing it.

[Docwheelhorse 2,560]

Hi Perry,

the door has a large piece of glass in it and the gasket between the door and the glass is what is leaking. It wasnt a cheap stove by any means.... but would I buy another Quadra-Fire...... I dunno.

Tony

[refracman 166]

Dang, something I know about and I'm late to the party!

Your best bet to make any refractory last is not let it thermal cycle or let moisture get to it, once hot, keep it hot.

The "cheap brick" is most likely a low MGO brick, the better brick is a aluminum brick. The brick is dual purpose one is to hold the heat in and the other is to protect the furnace shell. MGO brick does not like thermal cycleing and will fail rapidly if not kept at a steady temp once heated up, aluminum brick withstands thermal cycleing much better and if not exposed to moisture will last a long time.

Look around and see if you have a refractory installer for foundries/ steel/ glass around you. They should have left overs of all this stuff and give you a better price.

You want at a 50- 70% aluminum safety liner brick, and 2400 deg fiber. The seal you will have to get from your local fireplace shop most likely,but they could have some.

As for the shell, yes it will degrade over time from the cycleing of heat.

[roscoemi 245]

The seal/burn rope is usually sold at the local big box or hardware store.