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freeisforme

B-80 value?

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freeisforme

I had the seals, they were SKF 11050. (1 1/8" axles).

There was some weed trimmer line wrapped up around the left axle, I figured that had a lot to do with the seal starting to leak.

The right side was a bit caked up with old grass.

Another problem was that the transaxle was filled to the top. I drained it thinking that maybe there could be water inside causing the oil to float, but all I got was gear oil in the pan. I refilled it with 90w-140 gear lube.

The old oil was pretty clean, no metal, no water. I guess someone figured it should be filled to overflow rather than to mark on the dip stick.

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freeisforme

The whole B-80 deal took another twist yesterday, my neighbor came by and noticed I had a complete 12hp sitting on the bench, he apparently liked the 12hp better, so we traded. My old 12hp for the just rebuilt 14hp that he had on it in the first place.

I notice in reinstalling the 14hp that the right, forward outermost bolt hole hangs over the frame. Is the accepted method here to just leave in unused or use a J bolt of some type?

I also thought about making a small angle iron frame extension to reach out to that hole.

How did the 14hp or any larger motor mount in those models that came factory with a larger motor? Was the frame different or just modified in some way?

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rmaynard

Something sounds a little screwy to me. Why would he want a 12HP over a 14hp? :scratchead:

The bolts on the flywheel side go through the holes in the tabs on the pan, then through the frame. The bolts on the PTO side come up through the frame and into threaded holes in the bottom of the pan. The holes in the tabs on the PTO side of the pan are not used.

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freeisforme

He wanted the 12hp because it already had a flywheel drive set up, the tractor he needs it for drives only off the flywheel.

The 12hp runs, it just need a good going over.

I give up trying to figure him out. If it were me I'd have just swapped flywheel screens and added the drive adapter to the 14hp, but he wanted the 12hp since it's what his other machine came with.

The 14hp is back in the WH now, basically just as it was when this whole deal began.

My take is that it never had all four bolts in the motor, I put the motor back in the same spot where it was and only three holes line up. I don't see a hole to match up to the right front hole, either from below the frame into the pan or to the outer tab. The other three bolts are in tabs. The two on the flywheel side are in holes in the frame, the right rear goes through a bracket on the out side edge of the frame. The motor hangs over the frame about 1.5" or so.

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rmaynard

A standard large oil pan, when properly mounted, will have the outside edge of the PTO side tabs projecting 3/4" from the frame

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freeisforme

That's about how much hangs over the frame. I removed the right rear tab, it looks like it was added and found the bolt holes to fit the holes in the underside of the pan.

I think it may have been mounted wrong before since the paint witness marks are all farther rearward than where the motor sits now. It also fits the belt guards better.

The 8hp looks to have sat bolted down to all four corner tabs on the motor. The pan for the 14hp is quite a bit larger.

It looks like I need a longer throttle and choke cable, the way he had them run before they both ran right across the face of the fan shroud, he had tape over where they had rubbed through. The choke cable is way too short and the only way to make it work sets up the choke to work backwards. Up is off, down is choke on, opposite of how the dash is marked.

When running without the deck, does the belt and mule drive stay on the tractor?

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Trouty56

I think the 8hp bolts to a riser that bolts to the frame like the techys do. As far as how the big kohler motor bolts to the frame....you got it right.

The mule can be taken off...no need for it if you don't use the mower.

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rmaynard

If you need a mounting plate for the K181, I think I have a couple. I will check my stock of parts tomorrow and see. You can have it for whatever it costs to ship.

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freeisforme

My neighbor should have it since he took off the 8hp motor. (the mounting plate for the K181).

There's nothing on the motor now.

For now the 14hp stays but I may still consider putting the 8hp back on.

Do you have a pic of the spacer? It may well be in the pile behind his garage or hanging on his wall.

He's not the kind to throw anything away.

How does a rear tiller work on one of these? What powers it? Got any pics of the drive set up?

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rmaynard

I know there is a pulley arrangement that hooks to the mid tach-a-matic and directs a belt to the back, and I am sure that there are pictures somewhere here on the forum, but I can tell you where.

I checked my pile of B-80 parts this morning and I do not have a plate anymore.

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freeisforme

I found a few pics in the gallery section of a tiller set up.

There's a guy locally that's selling a tiller but he don't have or won't sell the adapter pulley parts with it.

He wants $100 for the tiller, but its worthless to me without the whole set up.

There's another tiller for sale that comes with a GT-2500 tractor, but the motor is bad. The seller said the motor don't have enough compression left to run.

Its got a rear tiller and a snow plow with it, but the tractor itself looks smaller than my B-80? Will a tiller and plow off a GT 2500 fit my B-80?

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Trouty56

I think there is a member who could build one of those idlers for you for a decent price or there is a guy on ebay that makes them. I'd think twice about the 100 dollar tiller especially if you can see it and it is in good shape.... Most go for a couple hundred dollars at least.

Here's a cool thread by one of the great fabricators on the forum......

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freeisforme

By the looks of it I could make one too. It looks time consuming making the latch parts but the rest don't look too hard. It would be easier if I had one to copy.

The guy with the tiller never used it, he bought it with a parts machine but never had the pulley adapter.

Is a tiller off a GT 2500 the same?

That tractor has an aluminum Briggs engine. Its a bit of a drive but I can buy that whole machine with the tiller and drive complete for cheap.

It just sounds like a smaller machine to me, if I knew the tiller and drive was the same I'd make the drive and go get it.

(Its about a 3 hour round trip ride, probably about $40 in gas pulling a trailer up and back).

If it won't fit its not worth the drive.

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Trouty56

It probably will work. The GT 2600 looks to be about the same tractor frame with a side PTO. It probably has the rear attach device you will need also. You have some spare parts then too....

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freeisforme

It looks a lot like the B-80 but uses an aluminum Briggs motor. I'm not sure if the frame is the same or not?

Its 4 or so years newer, but still in that same time frame, so I guess its possible they just built a cheaper series with aluminum Briggs motors?

I haven't seen it yet, all I know is what I found online about the 2500 model, but without having the two side by side its hard to judge size.

I wasn't sure if the 'GT' series wasn't a completely different tractor.

Has anyone had one that can say for sure?

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william kirk

hey, noob here too....just picked this b 80 up for 400 as well....guess i did ok...i have always wanted a horse!

my new toy.jpg

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DennisThornton

The B is quite robust and the the 8 just sips gas!  I love both of mine as they handle quite well the 36" RD and a 48" blade.  Wouldn't ask much more of them but don't discount them for pushing snow and loose dirt around.  Love the RD and it makes me wish for a 48" RD!

Edited by DennisThornton
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Dlb8477

I recently picked up a 1974 B80 for free, it runs well is all original including the Kohler 8hp, the only issue is it only drives in 2nd gear cannot get it into any other gear, any suggestions or help will be great. Thanks

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Burnerman
1 hour ago, Dlb8477 said:

I recently picked up a 1974 B80 for free, it runs well is all original including the Kohler 8hp, the only issue is it only drives in 2nd gear cannot get it into any other gear, any suggestions or help will be great. Thanks

Welcome to the forum. 😁 you should create a new post in the transmission section. 

Also you can find the repair manual available to download here in the manuals section and there’s videos of transmission rebuild that will help you understand what’s going on inside your gearbox. 

 Does the shifter move at all?

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953 nut
3 hours ago, Dlb8477 said:

any suggestions

:WRS:

The third post in this thread should get your gears moving again.

 

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Icer24

Hey Guys, I know this is an old thread, but i was doing some google searching on this Wheel Horse tractor.  I inherited my cousins house and everything in it and this was in the garage, it appears to be 100% all original, it is a B-80 4-speed.  It has the cutting deck, and when checking out the out building in the back she had a trailer, with leaf vacuum attachments, a spreader and a snow thrower attachment, all appear to be in working order and just needing some cleaning.  I did try to fire up the Tractor, and it looks like it needs a new battery,  and the old fuel was still in it which makes me believe the fuel line is gummed up, but i was able to get it to fire up spraying starter fluid into it.  The engine sounds really good when it is running, so i think just a couple of simple things and it will be ready to run.  I unfortunately have no use for it and would be looking to find the best way to sell it.  Any pointers, i am in Northeast Ohio.

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