squonk 38,844 #26 Posted June 9, 2012 Isn't that gasket part # 102759? Parts Tree still shows it available. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fireman 1,021 #27 Posted June 9, 2012 There is someone on Ebay that sells that gasket from time to time also. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SNYFIX 12 #28 Posted June 9, 2012 hey i can beat that for hillbilly. how about a plastic 5 gallon bucket, upside down with a hole in the bottom..... -- or a cinder block !! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,128 #29 Posted June 9, 2012 As to the grooves worn in the valve plate and the piston block housing...go over to the transmission forum, there are a couple of threads about working on the sundstrand hydros in the D series. Your internal pump parts are the same. Wet sand paper and a piece of glass may be all you need to smooth out your parts. if the grooves are too deep open up your spare pump or buy another one. Tearing them down isn't that hard. The gasket used on the D series is still available (and looks to be just about the same). For about $5 would be worth a shot. 102759 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
coldone 35 #30 Posted June 9, 2012 My valve plate and cylinder block was grooved also. About an hour with a flat plate and sand paper ad the grooves were gone. Start with 220 grit to remove the groove. Once its gone start using finer grits to polish. My final grit was 2500 annd you could see yourself in the reflection. I now have a working D200. Matter of fact i am hooking up the plow today and working in the garden with it. If you dont think the D gasket would work, then make your own. There are several youtube vids if you have never done it before. We are here to help because we have all been there. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gomer gump 8 #31 Posted June 9, 2012 in indiana on u.s 31 an hwy 6 there is an old man ,mr roger emmons who has a lot full of old antiques . last time i stopped in there he had 6 to 10 old raider and charger tractors about 4 months ago he also has alot of older tractors at his house and parts ,nothing new but bearings or parts you need may still be good ph no. is 574-274-8649 also theres a old fella in bourbon ,indiana on main st who has alot of older tractors an parts norm stienman 574-342-4545 mostly wheel horse . or possibly call rouch outdoor lawn an garden in three rivers mi he used to have a bone yd of old wheel horse stuff behind his shop might find it there ph no 269-244-5969 most of the parts these guys have is used but with old wheel horse ,s you may have to use used parts to get you going . good luck Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,229 #32 Posted June 9, 2012 One thing no one has touched on yet Ed are the few tractor shows coming up this summer. The ones that are close to you are Charlotte, Mi (first weekend in August), Sycamore, Il. (second weekend in August), Scott's M&G Warsaw, In. (first Saturday in October). :) Maybe you can make one or more of these...lots of talent and parts available. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wheel Horse Kid 104 #33 Posted June 9, 2012 Stay with it Ed! Remember this is all suppose to be fun and a hobby! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bowtiebutler956 649 #34 Posted June 9, 2012 I love being a part of this place! There just can't be a place with more helpful people than RedSquare! Matt :flags-texas: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 38,844 #35 Posted June 9, 2012 That 102759 gasket is for my 76 C-160. I think it will work for him. :) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
racinfool40 202 #36 Posted June 9, 2012 And..I have a couple good sets of the 1533 Ball bearings...If interested let me know..And Please don't give up there's Help on the Way!!!! MIKE Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EdG. 5 #37 Posted June 10, 2012 Well I got a lead on another Sundstrand here from a member in Indiana so I will give one more chance of finding a good one. I looked at my pump problem again tonight and I MAY be able to sandpaper this one part , it looks to be aluminum and not brass. This is as far as I can get it apart, I has a steel outer sleeve on it but it rest looks to be aluminum. But the other part that has grooves in it and it looks to be cast iron, no way I can sandpaper thoes grooves out (too deep), but if I remove the 4 special bolts that hold this thing on, I might be able to have it surface ground, maybe remove .030 or .040" and then make a steel shim of the same amount that I grind off and put it under this cast iron part. Does anybody think that this may work? Ed Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,128 #38 Posted June 10, 2012 Ed: The Electro and charger automatics came originally with a Sundstrand Hydrogear unit. Base on what I have read (and the lack of detailed overhaul info in the Sundstrand Manuals), Wheel Horse did not see the units as being repairable (beyond some valves) and instead recommended replacement with a piston to piston unit. My experience with the hydros has all been on the piston to piston versions. From your pictures there are differences in the piston block and valve plate in the hydro gear and the piston to piston units...learn something new each day. If the unit you are getting is a hydro gear and has issues perhaps you might consider getting a piston to piston unit instead. Quick ID... the piston to piston motor head is round...the hydro gear motor head has a figure 8 appearance. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EdG. 5 #39 Posted June 10, 2012 Thanks Paul for the input, I knew I had a hydrogear but I didn't know they were not ment to be repaired. Do you know if it's just a bolt-on swap to replace the hydrogear with a piston-to-piston unit? And would I have to replace the rear end with a swap like this? Ed Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,128 #40 Posted June 11, 2012 I looked up a parts listing for a later model C series that used the piston to piston (a C-120 1-0485). The parts used for the speed control on the hydro unit seemed to be the same as for a Charger 12.I would guess it was pretty much a straight forward replacement bolt in....but hen i have never done it so caveat emptor.... You should not have to replace the trans axle. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
