Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
alan8three73

520-H Onan PTO Whining/Whistling Noise

Recommended Posts

alan8three73

I have a 520-H with the P220 Onan motor. For a while it's been whining/whistling when i engage the pto, but as soon as the pto's fully engaged, the noise goes away. This weekend however, the nose persisted for about 10 minutes while i was finishing mowing. It did the whining in the winter with my 2-stage blower hooked up (again, just while it was being engaged, but once fully engaged it was ok). So this weekend the noise became 'permanent' - and i'm afraid it's a bearing that's gonna require a rebuild. It also gets louder with engine speed. Seems the more load is on the pto, the louder and more pronounced it gets.

Is there something I can look at or try to get this to go away without pulling the crank shaft and bearing out? I really dont want to replace the motor.

Thanks in advance!

Alan

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
CRE1992

I highly doubt it is the main bearing in the engine. When you push the pto lever forward to engage the pto. The pto cone which the belt rides on has 2 bearings in it. There is a needle bearing, and a regular ball bearing. I recently picked up a 418A and at first I thought it was the deck, so I changed the decks and it still persisted. I turned off the tractor and touched the pto cone by the engine it was warm, and I touched it by the stud which connects to the hoop by a pin and burnt my fingers. My recommendation is to take off the pto cone and see if the ball bearing on the end which is held in my snap clips is shot by spinning it with your fingers. You will know its bad if its loose, makes noise when turning it, or is hard to turn. If it is okay it should have extremely little to no play, and also be smooth and quiet.

-Charles

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
alan8three73

I pulled the pto cone off today and greased the needle bearings, even though they spun just fine. The other bearing where the pto hook pushed on the pto when its engaged turned but grinded a bit when i spun it. I sprayed every sort of grease and lubricant i could find around it and let it sit for a while. When i put it back, the pto still whined when i engaged it but it wasn't consistently whining while it was running. So i'm pretty confident that if i just got a new cone it would be fine.

Thanks! So glad it's not engine - related :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
CRE1992

No problem, it is easier to just replace the outer bearing it comes out by removing the big snap ring, but I would remove the little one first that holds in the stub shaft.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
alan8three73

Can i get the bearing out by myself without a press? I have a bottle jack and could probably rig something up to make a press. Would the bearing come out just by hitting it enough times strategically with a hammer?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
alan8three73

So i replaced the ball bearing, and i still have some whining coming out of the pto. I'm wondering if now its the clutch plate behind the bell housing? Also, i picked up a 2nd 520-H and it's got the same issue, so i can't swap parts... Should i look at the clutch plate next? Maybe replace it? The needle bearings look / feel fine to me. Should i also just replace that to do it?

Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • Tinman1962
      By Tinman1962
      Recently got hold of a 656 it's has a "newer" 61/2 Briggs on it I don't believe that's right any ideas about that
    • Little Red Horse
      By Little Red Horse
      Hey all. I have a Electro 12 with a factory belly blade. It runs* and drives. I had used it to grade my driveway the last 6 yrs. Having moved I'm looking at my options on storing it or selling it. Frankly I have no idea what it is worth. I watched "ISaveTractors" video on 5 things to do with a new to you wheel horse/12hp kohler. (When i got it 6yrs ago) And went thru and did the adjustments and replaced the parts mentioned. It has been a good strong tractor for me until around July of this year. (2023)
      *Around July it started dying after running 20-30min. I replaced the carb (Chinese Amazon purchase) with one from isavetractors web site. That seemed to help it idle smoother(the old carbs jets wouldnt adjust), but it still dies at around 20-30min.
      So I've got 2 questions. 
      1. What is it worth? (As-Is) and
      2. What do I need to do to fix it? 
      Thanks yall!

    • 850ford
      By 850ford
      I am looking for a replacement Kohler for a 1980 c165,it is cradle mounted.
      Will a standard mount Kohler work, if I remove the cradle?
       I am located in Massachusetts 
        Thanks
    • BrianStasC-101
      By BrianStasC-101
      Hello all. I am looking for suggestions on adapting the pto from my C series tractor to a harbor freight predator 420 13hp engine. I know the predator motors are a controversial topic however it is the route I have chosen for this particular machine. The intent was to mostly use it for plowing so no PTO required but it would be handy to have. Looking to hear from someone that has successfully done the swap that may offer any advice before I attempt to transfer it over. Just looking for any general pointers that will help me along the way to make it go as smoothly as possible. 
    • Tenday
      By Tenday
      Experts - help please. I’m new to Wheel Horse Tractor life! 
       
      So - I’ve pulled out an inherited tractor and have decided to resurrect her. Unfortunately, no spark :/ 
       
      I’m looking for help on diagnosing no spark. 
       
      model - 417-8 
      engine - Kohler KT17
       
      Done thus far:  (aware that some have no implication on spark.) 
       
      - new ignition switch 
      - new battery 
      - new starter
      - new ignition coil and wires w/ plugs 
      - new condenser 
      - new points 
      - new starter solenoid 
      - bypassed all switches except oil and seat. 

      notes:

      idiot lights removed. 
       
      All fuses tested with Ohms as well as visual inspection  .. 
       
      coil tested w/ ohms as well
       
      all switches bypassed except: 
      -oil switch  ( don’t think it has any implications other than a visual indication for idiot lights. ) 
      -seat switch 
       
      ran a pos from batt direct to pos of coil - nothing; no spark. 
       
       
      Electric is as follows:  
       
      - Starter switch wired to solenoid
      - - solenoid to starter 
      - - solenoid to batt
       
      - one wire from starter switch goes to engine ( I think this is for batt charge / flywheel) 
       
      - I have two yellow wires, which are married up, that go to engine which have constant power; They power coil.  Comes from switch and seat. 

       
       
       
      Help - what the heck am I missing ? 
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
×
×
  • Create New...