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handyman

417-8 No start problems

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handyman

First off, this is my first post. I found this forumn doing a search for Wheelhorse. Looks great with lots of knowledgable members and post.

I have a 417-8 that I can't seem to get started. The voltmeter comes up to 12 when the key is turned on to the run position but goes back to 0 when turned to start. The starter soleniod will spin the engine when jumped so I guess it is either the switch or a safety switch. I swapped another switch and still the same thing. How do I find, test and/or jump the safety switches to see if that is the problem. Thanks for the help.

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TT

:whistle: , "handyman"!

I guess the first test you can make is to verify that you have power at the bottom single terminal (marked "S") on the ignition switch when the key is in the start position.

If you run a wire from there directly to the trigger terminal on the starter relay (solenoid) and the engine cranks and runs, you have narrowed it down to the safety switches. (2)

One of these is located in the right side of the hoodstand under the drive belt guard and is normally "open" until the belt tensioner arm contacts the switch. (activated by depressing the clutch pedal)

The second switch is located inside the right side of the hoodstand and is activated by the PTO engagement lever. There should be two small reed-type switches fastened together in a very hard-to-reach location. If you follow the PTO engagement rod back from the engine to where it enters the hoodstand, you will find these switches.

It's odd that the "idiot lights" on the dash aren't showing any problem with either switch, but they really aren't very dependable. Perhaps there's a broken wire? B)

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kpinnc

I second the welcome Handyman! Glad you're here!

I would also add that on some of the mid to late 80's tractors, there was a "low oil" switch mounted inside the oil pan. It basically consisted of a switch that was held closed by a float. If the oil was low, it wouldn't start...

That switch ran me crazy for over a week on my 310-8. The tractor had plenty of oil, but the switch was bad! B)

I have no idea if your 417 has one or not, but I justed wanted to tell you about it just in case. The switch actually replaceds one of the large oil drain plugs in the oil pan.

Good luck!

Kevin

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handyman

I don't think I have any "idiot lights" on the dash. I did find the switches by the location descriptions. Now...how can I test to see if one is giving me fits? It appears the PTO switch plug next to the battery has quite a few wires in it. Can certain pins on the plug or switch be tested for voltage or continuity?

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JJetC

:thumbs: , "handyman"!

I guess the first test you can make is to verify that you have power at the bottom single terminal (marked "S") on the ignition switch when the key is in the start position.

If you run a wire from there directly to the trigger terminal on the starter relay (solenoid) and the engine cranks and runs, you have narrowed it down to the safety switches. (2)

One of these is located in the right side of the hoodstand under the drive belt guard and is normally "open" until the belt tensioner arm contacts the switch. (activated by depressing the clutch pedal)

The second switch is located inside the right side of the hoodstand and is activated by the PTO engagement lever. There should be two small reed-type switches fastened together in a very hard-to-reach location. If you follow the PTO engagement rod back from the engine to where it enters the hoodstand, you will find these switches.

It's odd that the "idiot lights" on the dash aren't showing any problem with either switch, but they really aren't very dependable. Perhaps there's a broken wire? :thumbs2:

Hey Terry,

I'm also having a no-start problem (on my 312-8 with a Kohler K301). You give some good suggestions for troubleshooting which I'm going to try. Can you tell me if I've narrowed it down to one of the 3 safety switches, is there a way to determine which of the 3 is a fault? Also, once you've narrowed it down, is it a matter of installing a new switch or is the old one serviceable?

Thanks,

Jim

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TT

All of the switches are "throw-aways" and must be replaced if they are bad.

99% of the time a small jumper wire with a male spade connector at each end can be used to bypass the switch in question. Unplug the switch and plug the jumper wire into the plug on the harness and if the circuit is completed, then that particular switch is at fault.

You can also check for continuity across the switch terminals using a suitable meter. You will need to determine whether the switch is normally open or normally closed (usually shown on the schematic) and then operate the switch with the meter attached to verify correct operation.

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JJetC

Thanks T - this is very helpful as I'm pretty clueless when it comes to electrical. I'll give this a go and hopefully find that it's one of the switches at fault and replace it.

Jim

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