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What key switch should I buy?

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I'm having a hard time finding the keyswitch I need. I'll outline the situation:

Started with a Raider 9 which had a Tecumseh HH100 with solid state ignition. I am most of the way through restoring the thing, and have installed a K301 with points/condenser igntion.

I know that I need a different keyswitch than what was on it originally. Does anyone have a part number for a battery ignition type keyswitch with a 9/16" mounting shaft? I would think I could use one from, say, a Raider 12 or nearly any other tractor with a points igniton Kohler as long as the shaft is the same size.

I do know where I can get one with a bigger shaft, and will resort to reaming out the hole in the dash if I have to, but was hoping not to have to do that.

Let me know if you know anything. Thanks!

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7263 (Bat) should be 9/16" like your 7572 (Mag) with 3 terminals and 3 positions but both are heavy duty switches. You may want to add a solenoid.

The 7263 was used on models with Kohler starter/generator.

Garry

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Couldn't find anything for battery ignition with a 9/16 mounting stem, so I settled for a generic 3 position/5 terminal switch with 5/8 stem. I will have to enlarge the mounting hole, but I don't mind since the bigger switches seem to be the popular (cheap ;-)) ones.

Can anyone tell me how to wire this up? The terminals are marked S, M, B, L and G. I thought I saw a thread on this once, but I can't find it. I'm assuming S=starter, B=battery, L=lights. It seems that M and G could mean several different things...can anyone clear this up?

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Just guessing, but wouldn't that be magneto and ground?

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Chris,

that style switch is intended to function with a magneto based system. Daniel is right, M and G are mag and ground. These two terminals are connected together to support putting the kill wire on the magneto to ground when the tractor is switched off.

Honestly, you will be way ahead in the game if you return that switch and search out the "103990" style switch seen below. Your "L" terminal probably won't be hot during the START function - so you won't be able to hook up the ignition coil to it. And then you have to consider where to hook the output of the regulator to support your battery function (no "R" terminal). Direct connection of the regulator output to the battery is not really recommended for safety reasons.

(click images to enlarge)

ignsw103990off-1.gif

imagedivln.gif

ignsw103990start-1.gif

imagedivln.gif

ignsw103990run-1.gif

imagedivln.gif

ultimately ending up like this

coilbasedignitionwiringv3.jpg

imagedivline.gif

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is it still possble to get the terminal housing that fits the ignition? I have two horses with just crimp terminals and for neatness it would be great to fit the original terminal housing.

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If you mean the plastic connector that arranges the 5 wires for the ignition switch. es at Napa Auto 7-016034 special order

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Thank you Chuck, for the wiring guide.

Just guessing, but wouldn't that be magneto and ground?

I was worried that would be the case. When I cross referenced the Stens part number, I found that it's a replacement for a newer Simplicity or Snapper, which I figured would be solid state/magneto type, but most of the listings actually told me it was battery type ignition...don't know what they meant by that.

How about this guy; http://www.amazon.co...8/dp/B0015MJWAG

...or this guy; http://www.stens.com/Portal.aspx?CN=58DB3000A02D

The second one will fit my dash. I'm not bent on having one that fits, but I'd rather not bugger the dash up drilling it out. Right now it's painted, but one day it might get a decal.

The genuine Toro replacement I found on partstree.com was around $45...am not impressed... :evil: I don't know of what quality Stens parts are, but I seriously doubt this switch is going to see the same use the old one did for 45 years. $15 looks a little friendlier. :beer:

Thanks for the help, let me know what you think.

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Indak produces probably close to 100 % of ignition switches. DO NOT use a battery type ignition switch in place of a magneto even tho both look the same with the 5 connectors on the back. Also make sure the replacement switch the contacts are labeled the same.

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Started with a Raider 9 which had a Tecumseh HH100 with solid state ignition. I am most of the way through restoring the thing, and have installed a K301 with points/condenser igntion.

Chris, as Gregg'shorse pointed out above

DO NOT USE A COIL BASED IGNITION SWITCH WITH A MAGNETO BASED ENGINE,

I'm going on your first statement that you now have a K301 COIL IGNITION engine in the tractor. Please confirm that with us.

Thanks

Chuck

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Hey, I bought a new key switch for my C81 with five blades which have the symbols L S M B G, and I can not wire the switch so my tractor will start. Can anyone help me understand what these letters mean?

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S- starter/solenoid , G- Ground ; B -Battery ; M Magneto; L Load/lights. This switch is for magneto ignition.

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Which switch is the correct one for replacement of a 4 position coil ignition switch, Off, run/acc, run, start? Tractor is a 10465-8 with Kohler301S. Thanks for the great help.

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Which switch is the correct one for replacement of a 4 position coil ignition switch, Off, run/acc, run, start? Tractor is a 10465-8 with Kohler301S. Thanks for the great help.

The 101917 switch has been replaced by 92-6785, a 5 terminal 4-position switch.

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You are welcome.

Try to grab a comparison picture off the internet before you order - make sure it matches what you need - it's a fairly expensive piece.

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on the 10465-8 does anyone have a wiring diagram that shows were all the wire go on the ign switch? thanks ahead of time

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